ARP studs too short

tbirdaj

tbirdaj

Registered User
I bought the chevy head studs part # ARP-233-4003 and the guy installing them says the short ones are too short any ideas? did I get the wrong ones? The short studs measure 3.75" and he says we need at least .5" more. do you use the washers from the kit? please help.
 
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man i hope not. i bought these same studs. wouldnt be the first time ive been burned taking advice off of a forum.


after looking at the ARP studs next to my old bolts, theyre cool. maybe a thread or 2 difference but i dont think itll hurt. that is with the washers
 
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I bought the same studs (P/N ARP-233-4003) and the guy doing my engine rebuild told me the same thing. A local guy had the T-Bird studs sitting around and I borrowed them to compare and they were the same size.

I had no problem using the Chevy 2.8L studs. The only thing mine didn't have as the assembly lube.

-Melon
 
They went further in than I expected. If you can, go in and test fit them so to speak. Drop a stud in, finger tighten it, then put the washer and nut on and see what you think.

-Melon
 
I don't know what part # I have but I was able to tighten my ARP studs all the way down and they matched up perfect when I installed the head, like a glove!

If you want I can get the part # for you but I'm sure someone here can post it quicker than I would.
 
The chevy head studs part # ARP-233-4003 is correct, it is what I have in my engine. I don't have the directions handy, but from what I recall, install them to 5 ft lbs. (which is about finger tight).

Paul
 
Ok so I put the nut and washer on the short stud from the chevy kit and compared it to a tty bolt and they are the same length. so why is it coming up short?
 
maybe it has a couple too many threads on it. thatll suck is it cool to use them if they arent tight in the hole?
 
22lbsofboost said:
maybe it has a couple too many threads on it. thatll suck is it cool to use them if they arent tight in the hole?
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If you have to back it off then go 2-3 threads at the most. That should give you enough since the threads in the block are coarse and the nut is fine thread.
 
That doesn't sound right to me. Are you sure you don't have the long ones and the short ones swapped around? I made that mistake on one side and I had to unscrew all of them.
 
That doesn't sound right to me. Are you sure you don't have the long ones and the short ones swapped around? I made that mistake on one side and I had to unscrew all of them.
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That is what I was thinking. There are 8 that are slightly longer. Those go on the "inside" of the head, and the shorter ones go on the "outside" of the head. Here is a picture of an SC engine with the Chevy studs.

Exhaust%20side.JPG


Thomas
 
what is the length of area on the coarse block side of the short stud from tip to shoulder?
 
Make sure if you blew your headgaskets to clean out those bolt holes before you put the studs in. I used a syringe with a tube on the end to suck all of the oil and coolant out of them. Some of the holes have quite a bit. If you have trouble getting them to go in all the way it's because the oil and water is being compressed and makes it hard to turn. Also, you should blow them out with an air hose to get old gasket material out of the threads. I didn't measure how long the studs stuck out but I used the Chevy studs as well and had no problems.
 
I Bought My Studs From Supercoupeperformance.com And They Worked Fine I Think They Were Around 120 Brand New
 
Jeepster said:
I Bought My Studs From Supercoupeperformance.com And They Worked Fine I Think They Were Around 120 Brand New
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Your studs are for the 3.8L.. The studs in question from the original post is for the Chevy 2.8L.

And I got thinking about it - who originally figured out the 2.8L studs would work? Was it by accident? Just wondering...

-Melon
 
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