just finished rebuilding wont start

turbospeed

Registered User
just finished rebuilding wont start * update

well the shop finally finished rebuilding my engine , and it wont start.

it does turn , the starter was just rebuild , but it turns kinda slow , and draws the battery pretty fast like in 6-7 tries almost half the charge , theres spark (altough they lost my DIS , and replaced it with a supposedly good one) also as a side note one of the DIS bolts is missing i dont know if it needs all 4 to make a proper ground.

theres also fuel pressure (40psi) when i turn the key.

i already disconnected the cam sensor , and tried the 3 starts routine but it didnt work.
 
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DIS Ground

You can run with three bolts on the DIS. Just make sure both of the bottom bolts are there. Those two provide ground.
 
Make sure your IAC is plugged in. Have someone turn the key on while you touch it and listen. Might run to Autozone or where ever and get a noid light to make sure that the PCM is firing the injectors. Also the MAF can actually keep some of these cars from starting(WORTH CHECKING).


Lastly, Did they screw the engine up?
 
well i went to the shop at it finally started the guy working on it was at lunch so i dont knwo what was wrong.

now runs , but it misses and stalls if left running alone , you gotta keep your foot in the gas , but when it runs altough it misses the engine revs very fast a lot better then it used to.

also i dont know if its wrong but it pulls 20hg of vaccum at like 2k.
it also has a rich condition because it has some black a smoke altoguh very little.

i think is relearling but i will have them check the cam sensor.

also they need to take it to the exhaust shop , because its leaking from one of the manifold flages wich the owner of the shop told me is part of the rich condition problem.

also he told i should really get new o2 sensors, because that will help the ECC relearn and adjut to the cam ( coy stage 1 clone)
 
Did you try unplugging the MAF while the car is idling? I have read that if the car idles better with the MAF disconnected, then it is an indication of a faulty MAF/connection. Did you have a chip burned/tune after these mods? Search for IAC and MAF under technical, you'll find a lot of info.
 
super red91 said:
Sounds like you need to adjust the cam sensor.


Man, come to think of it, when my cam sensor went bad it did exactly as described. Super hard crank over, and sometimes it wouldn't even crank, black smoke out the tailpipes. I think Super Red is onto something here. :)
 
Huh?

turbospeed said:
leaking from one of the manifold flages wich the owner of the shop told me is part of the rich condition problem.
Ask the genius to explain how running rich will make the exhaust leak!!!!!!!! Please let us know what BS story this fruitcake comes up with. Should be good for a laugh.

68COUGAR
 
well if you were trying to start it for long periods of time with no luck..Chances are you fouled the plugs by now..Pull one and check
 
It's a possibility that the cam sensor is a 180* out. Although it should still try to fire. We don't have a way to know if it was installed at the right marks on the balancer or what not so it's hard to state opinions.

If there is spark and fuel then it's either timing or air supply. IAC will make it not start and so will the TPS. They could have messed up the crank sensor during balancer installation/removal. If the upshift light is on during cranking then the crank sensor is bad. Cam sensor could be bad, but I still think that the motor will fire even if it is bad. All that does is tell the injectors when to fire.
 
68COUGAR said:
Ask the genius to explain how running rich will make the exhaust leak!!!!!!!! Please let us know what BS story this fruitcake comes up with. Should be good for a laugh.

68COUGAR


you got it backward , the exhaust leak i think is before the o2 sensor thus making it run rich,
 
CMac89 said:
It's a possibility that the cam sensor is a 180* out. Although it should still try to fire. We don't have a way to know if it was installed at the right marks on the balancer or what not so it's hard to state opinions.

If there is spark and fuel then it's either timing or air supply. IAC will make it not start and so will the TPS. They could have messed up the crank sensor during balancer installation/removal. If the upshift light is on during cranking then the crank sensor is bad. Cam sensor could be bad, but I still think that the motor will fire even if it is bad. All that does is tell the injectors when to fire.


well i disconnected the cam sensor and i couldnt start it even after the 3 tries routine.... wich is kinda weird. im gonna try again tomorrow.

i already printed the cam sensor pic and im taking it to the shop tomorrow.
 
turbospeed said:
i already printed the cam sensor pic and im taking it to the shop tomorrow.
If you got the pic off of the FAQ forum, the pic in the first post is wrong. The second post by "ss scuba" has the correct picture.
 
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Even if the cam sensor is off the car will still fire but will idle very rough. I would check the plugs to see if they were fouled and then adjust the cam sensor.
 
well it's finally running and idles and everything.

when i went they had removed the balancer because it was leaking oil from the crankshaft seal , they put a bushing in the balancer.

now i just need a new balancer bolt and they dont have it anywhere :rolleyes: special order from ford.
 
A late model Mustang 3.8 bolt should work just fine. Do a search on here for some more info as there are different lengths.
 
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