how much horse power will this add

ironworker

Registered User
aft intercooler and 1inch IC top and 3.5 inch intake and 80mm mas airfloow and 85 mm throttle body and 42 LB injectors.. add to my car all of the parts are comming in the mail..

next month is flowmaster catback

how much hp will i be getting ..
 
You will be getting exactly 17.7 horsepower gain from that combo.

If you add a 10% OD pulley to it, that will compliment the rest well and add another 21.357 horsepower as long as it doesn't blow out your spark. If it does, you'll need to gap your plugs real tight or get denso iridium plugs or an MSD to realize it's full potential.

Next step after the catback would be ported manifolds and good downtubes with hi-flow cats. That will put you another 12.99 horsepower up.

After that, you'll need a cam and ported heads to make any serious gains. Once you have those, go for a better blower.
 
Make sure you so your exhaust first. Otherwise you'll be replacing your HG soon.
I wouldn't worry about manifolds and downtubes untill you hit 300rwhp mark...
Go with better blower, or spend your money on Snow kit that can compensate for OD pulley.
 
ironworker said:
aft intercooler and 1inch IC top and 3.5 inch intake and 80mm mas airfloow and 85 mm throttle body and 42 LB injectors.. add to my car all of the parts are comming in the mail..

next month is flowmaster catback

how much hp will i be getting ..

Do you already have an MP inlet plenum and a matching blower that's fits it ? If not you won't be able to use the 85mm TB, and you won't really need those other parts either. BTW, the larger injectors will also require a larger fuel pump.

What mods do you already have and what are your goals in terms of HP or ET ?

David
 
i want over 400 by next summer or sooner. im putting all my parts in my closet till i get everything .. then i can do it all at once
 
You definately will need as David has stated an MP inlet to even think about using that Throttle Body. Along with that intake a 94/95/S port blower or an offering from MP.you should also get a 255lph fuel pump right off the bat. 400 hp will not be the easiest to get but can be done once you get into the heads and cam.
 
I would not expect over 10 to 12 horse power from your mods listed above.

The biggest bang for the buck ,right now for you. Would be overdrive pulley
for your blower or jackshaft.

Next I would buy a MPIII or a A/R blower.With 50 to 60 lb injectors,
& fuel pump.

Then ported heads and cam.When you install new head gaskets.

Randy
 
I can't stress enough how bad of an idea I think "shotgunning" your car together is. So many people want to stockpile parts, then blast it all together at one time and transform the car into a 400HP beast.

What really happens is you spend weeks trying to figure out why the car won't start because you only changed about 15 items at once. Then you spend another two weeks trying to figure out why it's running so hot. Then you spend another two weeks trying to get the CEL off. Then you finally get it sorted out, only to find you fell several HP short of what you expected.

I would start putting things on right as you get them. That way when your car won't start or idles goofy you'll have an easier time diagnosing the problem because you KNOW you only messed with the MAF, or TB, or blower, etc...

Micah
 
I can't stress enough how bad of an idea I think "shotgunning" your car together is. So many people want to stockpile parts, then blast it all together at one time and transform the car into a 400HP beast.

What really happens is you spend weeks trying to figure out why the car won't start because you only changed about 15 items at once. Then you spend another two weeks trying to figure out why it's running so hot. Then you spend another two weeks trying to get the CEL off. Then you finally get it sorted out, only to find you fell several HP short of what you expected.

I would start putting things on right as you get them. That way when your car won't start or idles goofy you'll have an easier time diagnosing the problem because you KNOW you only messed with the MAF, or TB, or blower, etc...

Micah

I cant agree enough
 
xThunderbirdSCx said:
I cant agree enough

I dissagree....plan it out based on your goals, buy all the stuff needed even if it takes a couple years, and then do it all at once.

Doing it a little at a time just caused me to buy three times as much stuff, because I was always having to upgrade something to keep everything in balance. Then there is the re-tuning that goes along with each signifigant change.

David
 
David Neibert said:
I dissagree....plan it out based on your goals, buy all the stuff needed even if it takes a couple years, and then do it all at once.

Doing it a little at a time just caused me to buy three times as much stuff, because I was always having to upgrade something to keep everything in balance. Then there is the re-tuning that goes along with each signifigant change.

David
Completely agree....Every mod that is listed in my sig was bought really close together and I haven't had it tuned yet.
 
I agree and disagree. :)

I have been bolting on parts as I buy them.Mainly because of
going through a learning curve for a SC Bird. I wanted to get
to know my car better ,So not to open a can of worms, then not
being able to handle multi problems at once.Because of to many
part changes at once.

But I also have been stockpiling parts to make my car lighter or
parts to make more RWHP.for 3 +years. Parts that I see as
consumables ,parts that will wareout. These parts cost me
more and took a long time to make & buy. So I plan to bolt
close to 80% of my modifications on in my next step in my
modification plans.

One thing I found out, you can't make to many mods at once.
This is because of tuning. If you can't tune your car.And you
need to drive a lot of miles to get a tune, and on a dyno.You will
need to get a chip burnt by way of mail-order.So you don't
damage your engine. And a mail order chip has a tune only
good enough to drive to a dyno for a complete
and good tune.tune

So some parts need to be bought and saved, then installed
at once. Like the MAF, cold-air pipe, throttle body, injectors,

Randy
 
This brings up a good question; does every single mod that gets installed such as a new MP3 or what not need a tune? If that MP3 was slapped on would a tune absolutely be necessary? I figured that fuel injectors and MAF would definitely call for a tune but what about smaller items like a new throttle body or maybe some new gears in the back or even exhaust. I guess what I'm trying to ask is, does every single modification need a tune? Who can tune my vehicle here in Denver; does anybody know a good place? I haven't done any mods to my rides except for removing the air silencer, lol but when the time comes I'd like to know.
 
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If you get a MPIII then you need to have a fuel pump, maf, and injectors. If you get the fuel requirements then you need the tuning to get the fuel curve set right. Little mods such as TB's, top, intake, etc. doesn't need tuning. Anything that has a decent HP increase pretty much needs a tune. Except for exhaust although it would still help.
 
I will be in Denver for tuning in late spring. We can get together then.

As for mods vs. tuning I would suggest that you use a thoughtful process to minimize tuning expense and do your mods over time.

There are some things you can bolt on without needing a tune. I would suggest things like UD pulleys, SC OD pulley and blower upgrades, TB, exhaust mods and IC mods as things which do not require tuning.

However, you will have to keep in mind that there are limits to the stock injectors and MAF setup. Typically between 240-250rwhp is it for stock MAF and injectors. I recommend doing MAF, CAI and injector mods at the same time and after you've done a blower upgrade because then a tune will be necessary at that point.

Anytime you open the motor for modifications, tuning should follow as well so keep that in mind.
 
CMac89 said:
If you get a MPIII then you need to have a fuel pump, maf, and injectors. If you get the fuel requirements then you need the tuning to get the fuel curve set right. Little mods such as TB's, top, intake, etc. doesn't need tuning. Anything that has a decent HP increase pretty much needs a tune. Except for exhaust although it would still help.

An MPIII alone does not require any upgrades. It's when you start overdriving it that you need upgrades. If you have to budget your money, then get the blower first and just don't overdrive it until you have the money for everything else. An MPIII alone will not put you over 250rwhp which is the threshold for stock MAF and injectors.
 
what is a good OD pully to get for it a 15% or 10% or a 5%. i found a deal for a 10% pully for 60 buckes .. isent a 10% pully stock on a 89 SC
 
i all so wanted to drop my ac .. is there a smaller belt or a diffrent pull i would need to do this.. and what is a good chip for my car
 
Do a search on these forums for "A/C Delete" and you should find all the answers to your questions. You can either get a pulley to replace the A/C compressor or use a shorter belt and mod the tensioner. Several here have done it already and have also provided pictures.

As for the chip.. SCT seems to be best/most recomended. Contact XR7 Dave using the link in his sig. I would bet he would be happy to help get ya hooked up. Take Dave's advice....

XR7 Dave said:
As for mods vs. tuning I would suggest that you use a thoughtful process to minimize tuning expense and do your mods over time.

Contact Dave and see if he would be willing to help ya iron out a plan for what to get, in what order and when to get it properly tuned if needed.
 
XR7 Dave said:
I will be in Denver for tuning in late spring. We can get together then.


Dave thats excellent, I'd be thrilled to have you tune the car. I'll make sure to throw you an email and catch up with you on this.

Thanks
 
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