Blower differances

Dahoopd

Registered User
In responce to the previous thread..Rotor pack/gear plate swap how to


If they can be rebuilt, and the rotor packs exchanged, then why cant a blower be made in the way MP and the others do it. Whats so differant from the blower itself that cant be acquired though porting or welding. Is it a specific science? I understand that you..........

1. Need to be a welder
2. Need to be knowledgeable in aluminum welding
3. Be proficient in porting

But why isnt there someone blowing away the competition in their garage. (excluding the AR). Is there too much involved. I am not talking about mass production. But with the extensive amount of knowledge and information available on this site. Why cant this be acheived in the same manner but in a cheaper route. Some of you guys are making advances with these cars just sitting on the toilet?

This may be dumb but I am really trying to learn here. Help me out guys.
 
I was thinking the same thing. It really doesn't look that hard to do, imo. I have max ported gen 1 and gen 2 m90's before, and i know exactly where to port it and why. Not alot of guys know that all you have to do on the inlet is shave off/enlarge only the top edge/corners and sides of the inlet as much as possible to allow the rotor lobes to pick up more air. if you can weld, then shave off even more and add material to both the plenum and m90 inlet, and shape it correctly. it's the same story for me, i don't have access to welding equipment and materials necessary to do it. I can do it, but it will not look like a professional machine shop job- but it would acheive almost the same results as an mp3 (without the larger rotor bearings though). if i had the time and the equipment i would have fabricated that stuff myself, easily. Basically if you can weld, this may sound silly but true- all you have to do is port/weld a smiley mouth shaped opening on the blower and inlet plenum (as much as possible without moving the mounting holes), sort of like the mp3 (smoothing out the rough edges making all angles and sides symmetrical), open up the "V" outlet by 1/4 inch on all sides, hog out the inlet plenum, and i believe it will flow almost as good as an mp3. that's my take on it, not to encourage anyone to use this as a shortcut from buying a real mp3. but for guys like myself who would probably never be able to afford an mp3 or AR, this is a real alternative. don't be afraid- just do it- the worst that can happen is that the blower doesn't improve anything performance-wise... but it certainly won't slow it down if anything it will make the blower much louder at least. At worst case in my opinion you would match mp1/mp2 gains.
personally i think you would gain 55-60+rwhp over a stock pulley gen 1 if you max ported a gen 2 (94/95) m90 and inlet plenum in this way using a 10% OD pulley. I think an mp3 on 15% OD would take it 80-90 rwhp over stock gen 1 on 10% OD.
 
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Why not Ill respond to this, you need someone who has a good understanding of not only welding but also what not to do. My uncle owns a machine shop and I had him weld something similiar to what you are describing. When i got it back it seemed sweet but it turns out when the guy who welded the extra material on the inlet of the blower warped the case just a little bit and I ended up chewing up the back of my case and rotors. You have to be super careful with the warping issue, the clearances are so tight on the rotor to case that its easy to go wrong. Now with that said, I had him clean it up for me and it should be going on the car this spring, fingers crossed with a set of coated GTP rotors and a worked inlet plenum. My point is for a guy like me with a little understanding of welding it seemed easy but Im sure the guys who do this for a living or hobby like stroked92 will tell you it's a little more difficult then that.
Phil
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68198
 
Phillio99 said:
Why not Ill respond to this, you need someone who has a good understanding of not only welding but also what not to do. My uncle owns a machine shop and I had him weld something similiar to what you are describing. When i got it back it seemed sweet but it turns out when the guy who welded the extra material on the inlet of the blower warped the case just a little bit and I ended up chewing up the back of my case and rotors. You have to be super careful with the warping issue, the clearances are so tight on the rotor to case that its easy to go wrong. Now with that said, I had him clean it up for me and it should be going on the car this spring, fingers crossed with a set of coated GTP rotors and a worked inlet plenum. My point is for a guy like me with a little understanding of welding it seemed easy but Im sure the guys who do this for a living or hobby like stroked92 will tell you it's a little more difficult then that.
Phil
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68198

i agree. this type of welding would have to be done in very small stages so as to not warp the case from excessive heat. i'm just saying it's not all that hard to do if done carefully with common sense and a little technical ability. things like this sometimes are not as hard as everyone makes it seem to be. when i ported my first blower, i was scared to death, but after it was done and installed on my car, and felt the difference, i found out right then there's really nothing to doing it.
 
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Ok, so again, since I dont know this could be a stupid question. Why cant it be welded with the rotor pack in it to aid in the prevention of warping. Isnt the intake the only part that gets welding done to it. I understand that there are tolerances between the rotor pack and the case. Do the rotors expand during heat and operation. I would assume a minimum amount.
 
Dahoopd said:
Ok, so again, since I dont know this could be a stupid question. Why cant it be welded with the rotor pack in it to aid in the prevention of warping. Isnt the intake the only part that gets welding done to it. I understand that there are tolerances between the rotor pack and the case. Do the rotors expand during heat and operation. I would assume a minimum amount.

instead of using the rotor pack, i would rather somehow heat sink it using other worthless metal material if possible (to avoid damaging the pack)- although i don't know what you could use and how you would attach it effectively. if there was some way to wrap it with a tough water jacket that wouldn't burn thru- naw... that might be too dangerous. i just don't know, but i'm sure something could be worked out for this.
 
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If you bolt a plate to the end of the blower case while welding.
Pre-heat the case before welding.
Control heat during cool down after welding.

The blower case warpage can be controled by jiging the case,
and slow cool down after welding. I used to use sand in a container
setting on a wood stove.Now I use a freinds oven for heads ,
and other parts that need to be pre-heat and cool down must
be controled.

Randy
 
Randy,

What type of jig are we talking about.

How would you pre-heat the caes? Just place it an oven for a few minutes? And how would you control the cool down process other than letting it cool down on its own.
 
Welding On Blower

Ive welded a few Blowers In the past and had decent results in fighting warpage using some similar methods that Randy Mentioned

1. I made 2 plates One that Bolts to the machined edge that the rotor pack seals against

2. I made a plate that Bolts where the SC tops Bolts on

I bolt both of those Plates Down securely to the flanges and then I Fill the case Up with Sand almost all the way to the Inlet area of the Blower

Once the Case is filled with sand, I Put the sand filled case Into the Oven
set at 350 for a little while. Then I remove the case and Start welding,
Once I have completed all the welding I wanted to.
I reinsert the sand filled Blower case Into the Oven (preheated to 350) and I then turn off the oven and let the case/oven cool off overnight
 
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