Brake Issues Continue

OK, I need help. I replaced my master cylinder, replaced my accumulator, replaced the ABS computer (the brown relay on the passenger side), and just about everything else that has to do with the brakes on this car. However I still have my amber ABS light on at all times and the car requires too much force to stop completely. I've invested way to much time/blood/money/sweat/tears into this to just give up and am looking for help/suggestions.

Fake edit: I'd rather not switch to the non-abs system that many of you guys have done. That would be a last last ditch effort.

Can you give us a list of new things replaced? Do you hear the abs pump running and dose it shut off after about 30 seconds after you turn the key on?

I've replaced the master cylinder, the ABS relay, accumulator, ABS pump, and the hard lines. I've tried listening for the pump, alas my exhaust is much to loud to hear anything over it.

Have you pulled the codes off the ABS computer to see what it's bitching about? Could just be a wheel sensor signal it doens't like. You read codes off it just like you do the EEC-IV.

No need to turn your engine over. Just turn the key to on. Mike could you give him directions on how to pull codes and code explainations?

The same code reader used for the EEC-iv can be plugged into the ABS computer to pull it's codes.

The 35th Anniversary site has the best document to use when troubleshooting the Teves II ABS system. It includes what each code is and some troubleshooting advice.
http://www.35ththunderbirdregistry.org/Tips/ABS.htm

I'll try pulling the codes tomorrow. I'm assuming that Autozone can do this as it's the same process as engine codes (I dont have a reader)? Also, where is the plug for the ABS test?

this may sound strange, but I would recommend that you go back and make sure the brakes are bled as good as you can get them...seriously. Use the clear tubing on the bleeder screw and the jar half-filled with brake fluid. It may sound a little simple, but I had very similar trouble with mine, and after bleeding them several times, the problem is completely fixed. Start with the one that is furthest from the master cylinder--the passenger side rear. I have a 95, so mine is different from yours--the 92's are run off the accumulator, and the 95 uses vacuum pressure from the engine instead. Try this out and see what happens....I had damn near manual brakes until I did this. It wont take a lot of time and wont cost you much at all, so its worth a shot.

Also, do scan the system. If you dont have a scanner, go to the auto parts store and look for the Actron CP9015 code scanner--it will be for "Domestic Ford Lincoln & Mercury" and it says that right on the front of the scanner. You plug it into the ABS diagnostic plug and scan the ABS system. When you scan the system, you plug the scanner into the plug, then turn the key to ON but dont start it. Your ABS light will flash out the codes. The link that someone else posted above has the codes listed so you can look up what you pull.

I believe that the ABS plug on your car is inside the trunk, inside the passenger fender area.

I know it seems like a pain, but completely read the ABS article I linked to on the 35th anny website. It's going to answer nearly any question you could have, including where the connector is for the ABS test.