not replacing a cam sensor

leeklimala

Registered User
Other than the car running like crud, are there any physically damaging consequenses to delaying replacing a bad cam sensor?
 
I suppose not. It may be hard to start and eventually become constantly hard to start. My stumbling progressively got worse and worse. It got the the point that you could feel a miss just going down the highway at a steady speed. It's not that expensive, why not throw a new one on?
 
Kevin Varnes said:
I suppose not. It may be hard to start and eventually become constantly hard to start. My stumbling progressively got worse and worse. It got the the point that you could feel a miss just going down the highway at a steady speed. It's not that expensive, why not throw a new one on?

Anyone have an idea on how much "not expensive" is? And how hard is it to change for the average shade tree mechanic?
 
About $40 at the parts store. Two 5.5mm (or 7/32" if you can't find a 5.5mm) bolts hold it on. You need small hands, but it's pretty easy relatively speaking. Try doing a search on here I'm sure someone has posted a pic of its location.
 
Just changed it. got it from Autozone for 38 bux after tax (saw it online for 28.99 so they said if I brought a printout then they'd refund the difference)

Here are the warnings I'd put out there for a first timer...

-Go ahead and pull your SC belt off for some extra hand room.
-Mind the clips holding the connector on (they are old and brittle)
-Be careful of how you pull and bend the wires (they also are old and brittle)

The rest is simple mechanics (righty tighty, lefty loosy)

Noticed a slightly higher idle at first but I am assuming that was b/c it was working correctly and the ECM was relearning.

I can't find my book for my scanner, how do I get the residual codes to clear?
 
They'll go away after a certain number of key cycles. Don't worry about them. There is another way to do it with the EEC test jumper wire in there, but I can't remember specifically how to do it.
 
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