My New SC

nick62087

Registered User
Hello Everyone.
I just purchased my 94 Supercoupe last friday. So far, i think its pretty nice. The paint looks pretty new and the origional rims are in good shape.
Pics:
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It does have some problems:
Needs a drivers side motor mount (getting fixed tomorrow hopefully)

THe DIC (driver information center) or whatever they call it on fords, it dosent work, no lights come on (firm ride, door ajar, etc)

The panel for the climate controls dosent work (bidding on one on e-bay)

The driver side bolster on the drivers seat dosent seem to move right

I drove it the other night, and i got stuck in some traffic on I-95 and the temp went way up (the 'check gauges' light came on)

It appears to have an alarm system: the keyfob battery is good but it does nothing.

Some idiot painted over the fog lights, but i dont think they work anyway (switch doesnt illuminate)


If anyone has any suggestions for my problems, any imput is greatly appreciated.

Aside from the minor problems, its still a lot of fun to drive. Its nice having a car that can put me in the seat.

Thanks for looking
-Nick
 
What could cause it to not come on?
I did notice one day after I drove about 15 minutes, i was showing one of my friends the car (engine running) and i opened the hood and was somewhat surprised to see the fan NOT spinning. After about 2 minutes it kicked on.
Anyone know when it should come on?
TIA for any suggestions.

-Nick
 
start with the simple things such as a bad connection corrosion will interfere with the connection but it turned on
was the car cool when u started it and it kicked on 2 mins later?
or was the engine at operating temp
 
It wasn't cool, but im not sure if it was up to operating temp.
I'll check the connections just to make sure, thanks for the suggestion.



[rant] ONE motor mount, parts & labor cost me $175. The car is already becoming a money pit. :mad: [/rant]
 
hey nice car man yes money pit but i think its worth it in the long haul.. ive put about a 600+ a dirtbike + 3wheeler and i STILL havent driven it and its just now to the easy stuff engine mounts,gaskets....exc well good luck and nice car
 
you could alwayz hot wire the cooling fan to an ignition source, so everytime u turn the key to start the car the cooling fan will come on,pro-never have to worry about fan not coming on,(u can hear it when u turn the key before u start it). con-if u put ur car on accesory to listen to the radio for example without the car running fan will kick on...
 
Your DIC is most likley unpluged or has no bulbs in it.
If your radiator is original plastic, Get a new brass one. raidatorexpress.com
You have 2 fans a high on the front of the rad and a low behind it. Make sure your low is comming on only.
Climate control is simply replaceable
Bolster is most likey a small back pressure hose has cracked where the seat bends over along the hinges.
Alarm, these get old and just quit working. Best best is to get a new one like VIPER.

You have a nice looking car there. If its a auto go to tccoa.com and look up the
j mod. You will be glad you did.
 
It's good to see someone local. I'm up in Bedminster on the other side of the county. If you need any help or advice, give me a shout.
Mike
 
so i finally got around to looking into some of my problems today... (kind of long)

Turns out a blown fuse was the cause of the lights not coming on, and it fixed my HVAC switch too. I thought that it was more than a blown fuse. i figured it was on the circuit with the dash lights since it lights up Since my instrument cluster, etc still lights up, i assumed the panel was bad. Its aggrivating since i just purcased another climate control panel on ebay, but its never a bad idea to have some spare parts.

while i was in the fuse panel, i disconnected a wire that was pushed into the front, because i didn't know what it was hooked up and i wanted to find out. TUrns out, when i disconencted the wire, my headunit and the clock on the dash stopped working. Seems strange.

I also found the alarm module. I unplugged it to get a closer look. Upon plugging it back in, the parking lights started flashing. They wouldnt stop untill i unplugged it again, no matter what i did. I decided to just take it out all toghether, but that has created an even bigger mess (car wont start, door locks wont work). I jumped the wires for the started kill so that i could start the car, but the locks still dont work. Its a CodeAlarm pro 3000, if you have a user manual for it, you're my new best friend.

I took out the headunit for no apparent reason, and was quite aggrivated to see the install job. whoever installed it cut off the factory plug, and made the splices by twisting the wires togher and taping them. No solder, no crimps, just tape. They were also too cheap to buy an antenna adaptor. I just put it back in the dash and pretended i didn't see it.

I also found and removed some kind of antenna booster (i think). I think its for a car phone or something of the like. It has coax connected to it (for an antenna i think) and then theres a cable that runs to the front that has a female RJ45 plug, anlong with power wires. Its made by motorola. A firend says he thinks its for a really old nextel. If anyone needs one, let me know.

Hopefully ill get around to fixing my other problems sometime soon.
Thanks for reading
-Nick
 
The alarm might have had internal relays and you will need to splice your 2 power lock wires back together at the drivers side kick panel. Pink w yellow and pink w green. Just reconnect any of the large wires from the the ignition switch and the power lock wires. Here is a list of the wires used for alarm systems in a 94 bird.


Constant 12V+ Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Red/Blue Ignition SwitchHarness
Ignition Red/Green Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Gray/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Black/Green Ignition Switch Harness and Gray/Yellow for Heater
Tach Gray/Orange Ignition Module, 12 Pin Connector
Neutral Safety Wire Not Grounding OEM Switch opens Starter Circuit
Brake Switch Black/Pink Brake Switch
Trunk Release Purple/Yellow (+) Driver's Kick Panel or at Switch in Console
Trunk Pin Brown/White (-) Pin Switch with Factory Alarm
Parking Lights Brown Light Switch
Head Lamp Red/Yellow (+) Light Switch
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm Dark Green/Purple (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Black/Light Blue Under Dash Light
Door lock Pink/Yellow Driver's Kick
Door Unlock Pink/Light Green W/Keyless Negative Trigger
Horn Wire Yellow/Light Green (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Yellow, RF=Tan/Light Blue
Windows Down LF=Yellow, RF=White/Black
 
Hey Nick,

I'm curious about your Motor Mounts (as I was told by the previous owner that mine needed to be changed).
Do you have a 5 Speed or Automatic and what were the "symptoms" you experienced?
I know on my 5 Speed, it tends to SHUDER when taking off in 1st gear.
Other than that it's fine.
Roger
 
Roger,

About the motor mounts, i have an automatic. I think the mounts are the same for the 5spd and the auto, but im not sure. My biggest symptom was a nasty vibration that i could feel in the car and feel through the steering wheel. I mostly felt it when it was sitting at idle, like at a red light. It also sometimes made some slight noises, hard to describe, somewhat like a thud or a thump when i took corners at a certain angle.

To check the motor mounts, my cousin told me to open the hood, put it in drive, hold the brake and rev it. While doing this, he told me to look through the crack of the hood (you can see the engine from inside the car w/ teh hood open) and see how much it moved, and do the same for reverse. When i did it, in drive the drivers side of the engine kicked up. In reverse, it was fine.

Im not sure how you would check the monts in an auto. If you try what i did, i recommend makung sure no one is around, so you dont accidentally run over someone/something.
Hope this helps
-Nick
 
Hey, nice car, looks really clean. if you get a chanc check out our local group at tstacc.com. we're getting together at franklin mills mall in about a month. click for info

the door locks--pull your pass. door panel and look for a pair of relays, or some type of module that leads back to the door lock switch. it's a '5-wire' type set-up. if you want to complety remove your alarm, you'll need to cut out this module/relays, and re-connect your switch properly (the module is in series with the oem switch) more info <--that will give you an idea on what to do install an alarm, so you just have to do the opposite.

good luck with the rest of your problems, again nice looking ride

-tom
 
Mounts

I'm curious about your Motor Mounts (as I was told by the previous owner that mine needed to be changed).
Do you have a 5 Speed or Automatic and what were the "symptoms" you experienced?
I know on my 5 Speed, it tends to SHUDER when taking off in 1st gear.
Other than that it's fine.

You can replace your engine and trans. mouts with solid rubber, auto/man all the same. For engine mounts if you know anyone who has taurus trans/engine mounts they will also work. I have installed solid rubber ones and it's going great on take off's. Also anyone has a wheel hopping? I know how you can get that fixed allot cheaper, not the best way but money saver.
 
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