It's fixed but I don't know why!
Well, after reading Mike's response that got me to thinking. So I pulled the caps and all the bearings out and checked the journals with a straight edge. No problem there. So I rechecked the bearings to be sure they were all the same size and they were all labeled 25mm. Now all of the upper bearings are notched the same so I don't know why #4 would be different as Mike suggested. So I put them back in and when I laid the crank on the bearings, the crank pivoted on the #2 bearing. That was the bearing that squeezed out all of the assembly lube when I initially installed the crank. Ahha, there is the problem but why? So I pulled the crank and bearings out again, numbered them as I did, rechecked the journals again, reinstalled the upper bearings, except I swapped #2 and #4 (what the hell, I would give it a try), put the crank in and no tilt. Hmmm, that is interesting. I should have swapped #2 and #4 back to see if the pivoting was still there but I was SOOOOO happy that it did not pivot I left it alone. So I put the caps back on and just snugged them down. Crank spun nice and smooth. So I torqued them down to 60 lbs-ft and SWEET. Crank needed a little more effort to turn but still was nice and smooth with no binding. I then applied the ARP moly to the ARP studs and torqued them to spec. SWEET, crank still turns nice and smooth. I would expect the 20 lbs-ft of torque that Dave said he needed to turn over an assembled short block will be right in the ballpark. I put the oil pump pickup support on the #3 bearing UNDER the ARP nut and washer after I drilled the hole just big enough to go over the ARP stud. There just was not enough thread on the stud to hold the support bracket in place on top of the ARP nut. That bracket is a pretty stout piece of material. I did not put the windage tray back on since Bill Evanoff told me that only the 94/95 SCs had windage trays. I had to remove the #1 bearing ARP studs since the oil pan would not fit with them installed. I'm contemplating drilling out about .375 inches of journal thread so the stud will go furhter down into the block. I have to look into and think about that a little more. Bill's main bearing ARP stud kit leaves a little bit to be desired. He should have 2 shorter studs for the #1 bearing and 1 longer stud for the #3 bearing to support the oil pump pickup support bracket especially when I'm paying that kind of money for the kit. Thanks for all of the help and if you think I'm doing something stupid, please respond.
Ed Springer
94 Red SC Auto: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, Accel 36# injectors, Scorpian 1.73 Rockers, ARP Head Studs, 190 l/h fuel pump, Raised SC Top, Headers, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:73 Gears, 76 C&L MAF (Gold Tube), MSD DIS-4 + Ignition Box, TRANSGO Shift Kit, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, Pro-Torque 2500 TC, Tokico Struts & Shocks, Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants, Optima Yellow Top Battery, American Racing 17” Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, COMMANDO Alarm and Remote Starter and Autometer A/F Ratio and Transmission Oil Temperature Gauges.