New Stereo connections to stock wiring?

S

Sam Woodson

Registered User
The PO left the CD player in the car (not hooked up) and had a Pioneer stereo. I'm tyring to put in my Kenwood. I saw where the Pioneer was connected into the factory harness. I labeled the spearker wires, etc.

I now have power to the stereo and if I hook up an external speaker to the stereo, it is working. However I have NO sound out of the car speakers.

There was a yellow wire "remote system" was labeled on it. It goes behind the glove box and down the passenger side door sill.

The PO also had 2 RCA's hooked into the back of the Pioneer, I also tried hooking the RCA's up to the Kenwood, still no sound.

Any ideas? I can always run new wires to the speakers.

Thanks,
Sam
 
If the factory harness has been cut, then I would say just to run wires to the speakers. If the car had the premium sound in it with factory JBL then you will need a remote signal to turn the JBL amp on in the trunk. The best thing would have been to have the factory harness intact and use an adapter to match the connections. If you have the JBL amp in the trunk and can get it to come on, you should have no trouble with it in connection with the Kenwood receiver. I am sorry that I can't tell you the wire colors for the connections, I was lucky enough to get a Bird with an un-cut harness.
 
Different Amps / Different Designes

Sam Woodson said:
The PO left the CD player in the car
The PO also had 2 RCA's hooked into the back of the Pioneer, I also tried hooking the RCA's up to the Kenwood, still no sound. Any ideas? I can always run new wires to the speakers. Sam
Click to expand...
The PURCHASE ORDER left the CD player in the car?

Some head units require that the low level cables from the head unit to the amp, be UNgrounded.

Likewise some amps Require that the speaker negative, be returned to the amp, Not simply grounded. Lots of OEM stereos ground the speaker negative. If you hook up an amp that requires the speaker negative be returned to the amp, & ground the speaker negative, you'll most likely roast the amp. What this means is that the speaker negative is NOT at ground potential. It will act like a dead short. Something will burn up. If you're Lucky, it'll be the amp main fuse. If you have, say, a 60 amp fuse for your amp, you'll burn up the amp before the fuse blows. BTDT!!!!!!!

68COUGAR
 
I ran all new speaker wires direct from the new head unit to each speaker. I left some extra slack on the rears incase I want to get new speakers and put them in the rear deck so I can use 6x9

I had a hard time getting all of the wires out of the way so I could get the head unit back in far enough. I kept all the stock wires in place just incase the next owner wants to make it stock to show, etc. (Since it's a 35th)

Stock speakers sound pretty bad, but the other car is having an $1100 clutch, and now a $600 flywheel, so the speakers for the bird will have to wait.
 
I would just try and get a factory wire harness and then get the new adapter to plug into that with the new leads from the cd player. If you get the right factory harness and hook it up then get the new harness to plug into the factory one it would be a piece of cake.
 
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