Scott Long
Registered User
I know its not gonna be cheap, but it sure beats the hell out of a car payment for the next 4-5 years for a car that I don't really want and won't perform to my liking.
David Neibert and some of the other guys probably have spent 3x what it will cost me to build this, since they bought the parts, had to replace them as they got faster, and so on. Now with the AutoRotor and parts available to us I think it would be a good time to start building a serious Super Coupe. I thank all the members who have led the way to high performance I know it wasn't cheap. But I think if I start buying the parts now and building the engine myself, I can spend the money once and do it right.
As some of you may know I have a 3rd SC in storage. It has a longblock in it but the radiator, SC, tubes, ic, intake, have been removed. It has an AOD, stock gears, and a custom exhaust. I am going to use the car itself for a 460 swap and I already have the 460 just need a C6 but that is going to take a lot of custom work and is a long term project. I only want the 3.8L long block out of it to use as my buildup for a bulletproof 3.8L. I'm not sure what I'll do with the AOD, keep it as a spare, sell it, have it beefed up....
Anyhow the engine is good, except the balancer broke so I will pull the motor and put it on a stand and see if the bolt is broken in the crank, or if the balancer has a chunk stuck on the snout of the crank. Worst case scenario I buy another crank and have it polished and speced, maybe cut it .010" if it needs to be cut.
The stock rods and pistons I won't need. I'll probably list them on EBAY. The cam I'll use as a core for a regrind.
I will work on getting the long block built first, once I get the rotating assembly balanced it won't take long to put it together, maybe an afternoon or two on the stand. The most money is going to be machine costs and head work.
I can upgrade the gears and suspension in the car and keep driving it because I don't want to be without the car until I go to swap engines in it. Even so after the swap it may have to run an M90 on it for a while until I can get the AutoRotor kit. Injectors can be swapped at the time of the AR, MAF, and fuel rails. Then its gonna need a tune. I'd rather only pay for dyno tuning once or twice so it may run on stock maf, injectors, and blower until the time comes to swap on the new blower and stuff and get it on the dyno.
Anyways here's the list of stuff, feel free to offer suggestions, thats why I'm posting this here.
1. get block decked and align bored
2. new cam bearings and freeze plugs
3. bore cylinders .030” over
4. polish crank
5. bhj balancer machined to fit crank
6. clevite 77 main and rod bearings
7. eagle 351-w H-beam forged rods
8. ross racing forged pistons 9.0:1 compression
9. total seal piston rings
10. arp main, rod, and head studs
11. balance rotating assembly
12. 94 timing cover
13. melling high volume oil pump
14. 94 windage tray
15. custom grind cam
16. comp cams roller lifters
17. ported and polished heads
18. 2.02” and 1.60” titanium valves w/ bronze guides
19. comp cams beehive springs
20. titanium retainers
21. chromoly pushrods
22. Scorpion 1.7 ratio roller rockers
23. kooks long tube ceramic headers
24. 2.5” downtubes w/o catalytic convertors
25. dual 2.5” in / 3.5” out center muffler
26. 92+ gas tank
27. 3.5” pipe from center muffler to a y-pipe
28. 2.5” from y-pipe to 2 chamber mufflers
29. 60 lb/hr injectors
30. remote mounted fuel pressure regulator
31. 255 lph forced induction fuel pump
32. custom made billet fuel rail
33. ported and polished and extrude honed intake manifold
34. AutoRotor 1.7L twin screw supercharger
35. ASP underdrive pullies
36. 5% overdrive jackshaft pulley 8-rib
37. front mount intercooler custom made w/ twin puller fans
38. custom made aluminum ic tubes (eventually get them either plated or painted, don’t need the bling to go fast)
39. custom made SC top w/ front exit
40. 180 degree t-stat
41. Griffin aluminum radiator w/ high flow fan
42. possibly a remote mounted electric water pump w/ a blockoff plate for the timing cover and two heater hose fittings.
43. trunk mounted battery kit w/ optima dry cell battery
44. Magnum Powers 85mm Throttle Body
45. Pro-M 87mm MAF
46. Magnum Powers 3.5” fresh air intake system
47. custom 3.5” pipe going to front bumper area w/ 9” K&N cone filter or pull the headlight at the track and have a heat shield to keep hot air away from filter if underhood.
48. fiberglass cobra r cowl induction hood
49. solid motor mounts and solid transmission mount
50. alcohol injection kit
51. shorter a/c condenser
52. gatorback belts
53. Lentech 10” non locking 3000 rpm convertor
54. Lentech Street Terminator Plus AOD transmission w/ stage 2 valve body
55. Lentech deep pan w/ drain plug
56. biggest trans cooler I can find w/ small fan (50k gvw?)
57. rebalance driveshaft
58. brute force u-joints
59. polyurethane differential bushings
60. 4.10:1 gears, rebuild trac-lok w/ F-150 spring
61. eibach springs, koni adjustable shocks, air bags in rear springs, new shock mounts up front.
62. new tie rods, lower ball joints, upper c-arms, and strut rod bushings
63. convert to manual power brakes (crown vic master, tbird booster) and install line locks in front for heating slicks at the track.
64. new wheel bearings and mustang cobra hubs front and rear
65. 03 Cobra wheels for street use w/ NT555R extreme drags in rear
66. Weld Pro-Star 15x3’s up front w/ ET Fronts and 15x8’s in rear w/ 26x10.5x15 ET Streets for track, if needed 28x10.5x15 need to see if I run out of gear or not at the track.
67. reclining adjustable lightweight racing seats for front, will pull passenger and rear seats at track
68. maybe a set of fiberglass doors to cut some more weight
If I’m still not happy with it, maybe a manual valve body w/ trans brake, and an MSD ignition w/ 2 step rev limiter for really aggressive launches. Could also install a 150 hp wet nitrous kit and either twin 255 lph intank pumps or a separate external pump to feed the fuel to the nitrous system. Might install a fuel cell but I want the car to be stock looking and fully streetable even though I won’t drive it everyday.
David Neibert and some of the other guys probably have spent 3x what it will cost me to build this, since they bought the parts, had to replace them as they got faster, and so on. Now with the AutoRotor and parts available to us I think it would be a good time to start building a serious Super Coupe. I thank all the members who have led the way to high performance I know it wasn't cheap. But I think if I start buying the parts now and building the engine myself, I can spend the money once and do it right.
As some of you may know I have a 3rd SC in storage. It has a longblock in it but the radiator, SC, tubes, ic, intake, have been removed. It has an AOD, stock gears, and a custom exhaust. I am going to use the car itself for a 460 swap and I already have the 460 just need a C6 but that is going to take a lot of custom work and is a long term project. I only want the 3.8L long block out of it to use as my buildup for a bulletproof 3.8L. I'm not sure what I'll do with the AOD, keep it as a spare, sell it, have it beefed up....
Anyhow the engine is good, except the balancer broke so I will pull the motor and put it on a stand and see if the bolt is broken in the crank, or if the balancer has a chunk stuck on the snout of the crank. Worst case scenario I buy another crank and have it polished and speced, maybe cut it .010" if it needs to be cut.
The stock rods and pistons I won't need. I'll probably list them on EBAY. The cam I'll use as a core for a regrind.
I will work on getting the long block built first, once I get the rotating assembly balanced it won't take long to put it together, maybe an afternoon or two on the stand. The most money is going to be machine costs and head work.
I can upgrade the gears and suspension in the car and keep driving it because I don't want to be without the car until I go to swap engines in it. Even so after the swap it may have to run an M90 on it for a while until I can get the AutoRotor kit. Injectors can be swapped at the time of the AR, MAF, and fuel rails. Then its gonna need a tune. I'd rather only pay for dyno tuning once or twice so it may run on stock maf, injectors, and blower until the time comes to swap on the new blower and stuff and get it on the dyno.
Anyways here's the list of stuff, feel free to offer suggestions, thats why I'm posting this here.
1. get block decked and align bored
2. new cam bearings and freeze plugs
3. bore cylinders .030” over
4. polish crank
5. bhj balancer machined to fit crank
6. clevite 77 main and rod bearings
7. eagle 351-w H-beam forged rods
8. ross racing forged pistons 9.0:1 compression
9. total seal piston rings
10. arp main, rod, and head studs
11. balance rotating assembly
12. 94 timing cover
13. melling high volume oil pump
14. 94 windage tray
15. custom grind cam
16. comp cams roller lifters
17. ported and polished heads
18. 2.02” and 1.60” titanium valves w/ bronze guides
19. comp cams beehive springs
20. titanium retainers
21. chromoly pushrods
22. Scorpion 1.7 ratio roller rockers
23. kooks long tube ceramic headers
24. 2.5” downtubes w/o catalytic convertors
25. dual 2.5” in / 3.5” out center muffler
26. 92+ gas tank
27. 3.5” pipe from center muffler to a y-pipe
28. 2.5” from y-pipe to 2 chamber mufflers
29. 60 lb/hr injectors
30. remote mounted fuel pressure regulator
31. 255 lph forced induction fuel pump
32. custom made billet fuel rail
33. ported and polished and extrude honed intake manifold
34. AutoRotor 1.7L twin screw supercharger
35. ASP underdrive pullies
36. 5% overdrive jackshaft pulley 8-rib
37. front mount intercooler custom made w/ twin puller fans
38. custom made aluminum ic tubes (eventually get them either plated or painted, don’t need the bling to go fast)
39. custom made SC top w/ front exit
40. 180 degree t-stat
41. Griffin aluminum radiator w/ high flow fan
42. possibly a remote mounted electric water pump w/ a blockoff plate for the timing cover and two heater hose fittings.
43. trunk mounted battery kit w/ optima dry cell battery
44. Magnum Powers 85mm Throttle Body
45. Pro-M 87mm MAF
46. Magnum Powers 3.5” fresh air intake system
47. custom 3.5” pipe going to front bumper area w/ 9” K&N cone filter or pull the headlight at the track and have a heat shield to keep hot air away from filter if underhood.
48. fiberglass cobra r cowl induction hood
49. solid motor mounts and solid transmission mount
50. alcohol injection kit
51. shorter a/c condenser
52. gatorback belts
53. Lentech 10” non locking 3000 rpm convertor
54. Lentech Street Terminator Plus AOD transmission w/ stage 2 valve body
55. Lentech deep pan w/ drain plug
56. biggest trans cooler I can find w/ small fan (50k gvw?)
57. rebalance driveshaft
58. brute force u-joints
59. polyurethane differential bushings
60. 4.10:1 gears, rebuild trac-lok w/ F-150 spring
61. eibach springs, koni adjustable shocks, air bags in rear springs, new shock mounts up front.
62. new tie rods, lower ball joints, upper c-arms, and strut rod bushings
63. convert to manual power brakes (crown vic master, tbird booster) and install line locks in front for heating slicks at the track.
64. new wheel bearings and mustang cobra hubs front and rear
65. 03 Cobra wheels for street use w/ NT555R extreme drags in rear
66. Weld Pro-Star 15x3’s up front w/ ET Fronts and 15x8’s in rear w/ 26x10.5x15 ET Streets for track, if needed 28x10.5x15 need to see if I run out of gear or not at the track.
67. reclining adjustable lightweight racing seats for front, will pull passenger and rear seats at track
68. maybe a set of fiberglass doors to cut some more weight
If I’m still not happy with it, maybe a manual valve body w/ trans brake, and an MSD ignition w/ 2 step rev limiter for really aggressive launches. Could also install a 150 hp wet nitrous kit and either twin 255 lph intank pumps or a separate external pump to feed the fuel to the nitrous system. Might install a fuel cell but I want the car to be stock looking and fully streetable even though I won’t drive it everyday.