Coolant Air-Purge Gaskets !!!NEW!!! $20 shipped.

MikeKanterakis

SCCoA Member
Hello, I was about to start selling these on eBay again and thought I'd list them here first. Props to Mr. B for the suggestion.

For $20.00 USD shipped, I'll mail you a brand spanking new "Gleaming White" plastic gasket. This is an original FORD part. or as they say in ebay talk, NOS. New Old Stock.

Warning installation of this gasket has the ability to make the rest of your engine bay look... well... dirty.

I'll take a few pictures tomorrow of the one on my car (after about 6,000) miles. As well as a close-up picture of the gasket itself.

Just to clarify, this is for the gasket only. The bolt is not included.

PM me via SCCOA, or email me at michaelkanterakis@hotmail.com




A couple of notes regarding installing one of these:

1.) Make sure the engine has completely cooled. Hot coolant is not nice to skin.

2.) Pressurized hot coolant is not nice to eyes. If you're not sure if the system has de-pressurized, grab the upper radiator hose, and see if you can squeeze it. If it's cold to the touch and you can squeeze it easy, then slowly take off the radiator cap.

2.5.) Assuming you've been careful to not burn your self so far, put the radiator cap back on and continue.

3.) Use 2 wrenches/tools when removing your old gasket's bolt. Hold the extension steady with the lower wrench, and then loosen the bolt. Otherwise, you might twist the entire tube right off the goose-neck/thermostat housing. If that happens, go ahead and replace the thermostat while you're there (stock is 190 degrees). Also be warned, that you may find the two bolts holding on the goose-neck are stuck to the lower intake manifold. Then, when you break those bolts off you'll have to take out the lower manifold if you're not successful in tapping out the remaining bolt(s). Been There Done That! So.... pretty please, use two wrenches.

4.) The bolt actually has a small cavity up through it that exits the bolt just under the top few threads. Honest!. While you have the bolt off, go ahead and clean that out and the next time you go to "burp" the system, you'll only have to back the bolt off a few threads. :cool:

5.) Be sure to clean the underside of the bolt and get all the remaining plastic off. You want to have a nice flat surface pushing the gasket down onto the tube leading out of the thermostat housing/goose-neck.
 
Awesome

Im just going to say that These Gaskets are AMAZING!!

Ive ordered 2 of them in the last year or so, and I couldnt be happier.

Thanks Mike
 
I dont understand....its a bolt with pipe thread and a retard label. What is included that makes it differant? The fresh cap is worth the twenty alone.
 
Thanks for the kind words Mike. It's nice to have a satisfied customer let people know that these aren't some flimsy knock-off. That way no one is just taking my word for it.

Dahoopd, I'm not sure I understand what you're asking? There is nothing included with the white plastic gasket. It's just the gasket alone that I'm offering. It does serve the purpose of making sure you don't get splashed when you back off the screw to let the air out, but I think that people are mostly inclined to purchase it b/c it's an original piece from Ford and it looks a lot better than the yellow, melted/cracked old one that's on most people's cars. Just take care to clean out the passage way that goes up through the middle of the bolt and exits on two sides a few threads under the head of the bolt. Otherwise, you'll have to back the bolt out most of the way, defeating the purpose of the gasket.

Thanks also to the people who have already contacted me. :)
 
but wait... there's more....

Yup, it's a gasket and a splash guard. Next time you take the bolt out, clean it up really really good on a wire wheel and you'll see the little passage way leading up from the bottom of the bolt to the top and exiting on either side. Imagine a letter "T" inside the bolt threads. That exits below the white gaskets and hits the sides. That way, you don't get coolant all over yourself when you purge the air.

At first glance, on a high mileage vehicle, you'll most likely NOT see the passage way. It'll be all gunked up with rusty metal plaque.
 
Expensive is a relative.

I can appreciate that some members would find the idea of spending twenty bucks on an eighth of an ounce of plastic a bad idea. Especially when they could put that money towards gas or tires or insurance or that (next) speeding ticket. For those members, I appologize. I've been there and I know it's hard when money is tight.

I based the $20.00 price on my previous eBay auction "final bids", what it cost me to acquire the gasket in the first place, shipping/packaging costs, and my time and effort. Frankly, if it were any cheaper, it wouldn't be worth my time to answer e-mails, take checks to the bank, and drive to the post office.

Patrick, I would be most pleased if you could offer these gaskets for less than 20 bucks. The entire Super Coupe community would benefit, and that's what it's all about.
 
MikeKanterakis said:
Yup, it's a gasket and a splash guard. Next time you take the bolt out, clean it up really really good on a wire wheel and you'll see the little passage way leading up from the bottom of the bolt to the top and exiting on either side. Imagine a letter "T" inside the bolt threads. That exits below the white gaskets and hits the sides. That way, you don't get coolant all over yourself when you purge the air.

At first glance, on a high mileage vehicle, you'll most likely NOT see the passage way. It'll be all gunked up with rusty metal plaque.

purge the air ? how and why do i do that ? :confused:
 
well, any time you introduce air into the coolant system, you need to purge that air. Otherwise, cylinder walls will suffer, and your cabin heat might not work. Air gets introduced into the system any time you lose a belt and it slices through the radiator hose, or you change out a bad thermostat, or make the switch to Evans NPG+ waterless coolant ;-)

I thought I outlined the "how" in the first post. Basically, when you're refilling the coolant, you back off the air-purge bolt and let the air escape when the motor is running.
 
i already flushed my system and filled it 3 different times and then drove it. will purging it once take all the air out or is air trapped in the block now since i drove it without purging it first ?
 
I don't think it could ever be "forever trapped". turn on the heater when the engine is on and see if you get HOT heat. If so, then you've more than likely gotten the air out.

Don't remove the air-purge bolt until the engine has completely cooled. Then you can check for blockage in the path through the bolt. It's a lot easier to actually purge the air when the bolt is in "working" condition.

An easy visual inspection for air trapped in the cooling system is air bubles in the overflow tank.
 
MikeKanterakis said:
An easy visual inspection for air trapped in the cooling system is air bubles in the overflow tank.

If the air is really trapped, it would not get in the overflow tank (if so, then the air is released, within the overflowtank). :confused:
 
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