Manual steering

no164ford

Registered User
I am currently doing a manual steering swap in my car, and was thinking that mabe I could help out a few more people with all my reaserch and time invested. I would offer only a few of these kits if everthing works out. This kit would use your orignal tierod ends. The kit would inclued,

1 NEW (not rebuilt) Flameing River FR1508 manual rack with 20:1 ratio and 4 turn lock to lock

1 Modified orignal rag joint

This is a easy way to free up good HP (hopeing for 10-15hp) and loose up to 40+ lbs in a SC. Hopeing to keep the cost around 350.00 to 360.00.

I am just checking to see if there is anyone interested.
 
interest

I might be interested, after i hear how you like the steering effort. Will there be belt problems? The belt on mine goes from crank under lower hose and up to alt.
If you delete the p/s pump it looks like the belt would hit the lower rad hose.
 
Yes I looked at the belt just now and you are right it will hit the lower rad hose. On my car I am planing to move the alt to the right side of the motor so I never gave it much thought but I did plan on getting the needed belt sizes for the sc with and without ac and the alt on the right or left side. I will look into getting a diffrent lower rad hose. Here it goes the price will be out of the roof before I am done:mad:
 
I got to thinking about it I probbly will never make a kit to do this, I will just make a post under the How To with all the part #'s
 
I am going to do the swap as well. The PINTO racks are cheaper then the flaming river ones. I asked someone how to do the rag joint thing but they said to trim it or something? I think I will use a knuckle from an existing shaft that I already have. This will eliminate the flex in the column and give it a bit better response. As far as the belt goes. I think I will get a plastic AC deleate kit and stick it on the side there and keep the same length of belt.

Chris
 
I run a Flaming River steering rack in my race cars and they work really well. They are VERY easy on turning too.
 
I used the included mounting clamps and then welded a rod and a nut to the frame to bolt it to. That was that.
 
I guess you did not buy a generic rack then? Was it one to convert the SC? What did you do to get rid of your PS pully? Did you just change your lower hose to miss the belt? Or is this for another non SC car?

Chris
 
The nice part about the 94-04 mustang rack I am useing is that you just use the stock SC tierod ends with no modifications
 
Any Update

Hry no164 have you finished this project?

How did it work out? Turning effort, road feel etc...
 
I am also interested in this topic. I would very much like to loose the power steering set-up on the 91 I am building. Part numbers and info would be appreciated. This build will be a V8 swap and not a 3.8 SC.

Thanks,
Todd
 
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Well Im gonna build me a "392Bird" steering shaft & Im gonna go manual steering next month maybe. Im gonna be using a 351W block with March brackets for manual steering, may be a little more tricky on SC motors though!
 
BTW:

Why not just remove the pump, and loop the 2 lines on the rack together, i learned this on the BMW forum i'm a part of, i did this on my e30 and its not that bad without the pump a little tighter. I told my bro to do it on his stang, and he will be doing is soon.

It's free also, just time consuming..

On my e30... a pic of it..

power%20steering%20delete%20pic.JPG
 
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It will work to do it that way, but it is not the right way. You are pushing the fluid back through the lines and pushing against seals that usually have pressure on the back of them. I too have seen this done, but I want to do it the right way....in a few years.

Chris
 
people have been running there cars for years like this..

there was many discussions on this, and i believe what you are saying is incorrect, since theres a feed and return, the fluid cycles around as it normally would, just without the pump (think about it) the pump just assits and makes it easier (also stealing HP from the motor and adding weight to the vehicle)...the steering does get a bit firmer, but its able to live with, and its very firm at under 4mph or turning when the car is not moving.

and dont try to just bypass your pump with the pump/lines connected or it will be the worse....

I do not plan to do my steering rack, and if i thought it was going to damage my rack i would of never done it...
 
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So what about the tie rod length, steering shaft and the mounting locations? Are these all the same on a FR '94/'95 Mustang manual rack as a Tbird? Like a direct bolt-on?

I guess I could have a look at both power racks at the parts store to get an idea. The power racks have different part #'s for both applications. Hopefully it is just in where the hoses go.

I could lose my power steering in a hurry. Even though I've spent a few hundred $$$ replacing every part with new/reman stuff.:mad: My reasoning for a manual rack would be less weight and hp gain. Plus every hotrod I've owned had manual steering when it was done:D
 
I did a manual rack on my car. Iam sure that some of the peple that were at the shotout can chime in. I got the rack from NAPA. I used S.C. tie rod ends. Modified the rag joint. I also pulled off all the power steering stuff. As far as how much more hp. it made I dont know. The engine sure winds up a lot faster with all that drag gone.
 
And by the way $350 in a good deal for a bolt on kit. I had to do some work to get the rag joint to work.:D
 
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