Anyone ever break any rear sway bar end link?

sizemoremk

Registered User
Anyone ever break any rear sway bar end link? I assume that's what they are...

I have never noticed this before and have no idea how long its been this way, but I was under there bleeding the rear brakes and noticed one side was completly broken off at he bottom.

I guess its possible that I missed it for several years, but a few years ago when I was going through the suspesion, I replaced the rear diff bushings and I'm sure they were there then, cuz I inspected everything.

Now I've heard that you could disconnect them for drag racing, so maybe ths will be good for my 60ft times:D

Anywho, what would the symptoms be when these are gone? Would it not be really noticable?

I don't really so alot of poterior haulin the twisties, so maybe this is a good thing:confused: :confused: :confused:
 
It happens. :)

With a broken rear sway bar end link, the rear end of the car will be subject to roll farther in corners. As cheap as they are, I'd replace both of them.

And it's the front sway bar that people disconnect at the track, not the rear.

-Rod
 
OEM vs. ADDCO end links

The OEM R. endlinks are puny!!!! Best thing to do, is replace them with some good endlinks from ADDCO. You'll have to modify the mounts, but that's a good thing, since the OEM endlink mounts are pretty pathetic.

I think that mn12performance sold OEM style R. sway bar endlinks. I think that SpinningWheelsSC bought all of mn12performance's inventory. So check with Victor if you want OEM style end links.

My personal believe is, Why replace a part that you know will break, with an identical part? If it broke once, it'll break again. Always replace a broke part, with a stronger part!!!

68COUGAR
 
I broke one after I lowered my car because I didn't get shorter links like you're supposed to. I removed the rear bar completely and have had no problems. I routinely drive very fast around curves and it doesn't feel any different. Good tires and stiff springs will help your car handle just as well.;)
 
An anti-sway bar does things that stiff springs can't. They transfer force from one side of the body to the other, balancing the force and resisting body motion. By making the spring stiffer you loose the compliance and control. You just get minimal control.
 
Sway Bar Removal

Mike8675309 said:
An anti-sway bar does things that stiff springs can't. They transfer force from one side of the body to the other, balancing the force and resisting body motion. By making the spring stiffer you loose the compliance and control. You just get minimal control.
I second that motion!!! I have the 1 3/8" F&R bars, & I LOVE them!!!

68COUGAR
 
Sorry, but you can't convince me that a rear swaybar is that important much less a thicker more expensive one. I guarantee you won't notice you broke a rear swaybar endlink unless you hear it pop or see it broken a few months later when you go to do your brakes. I was paranoid when I found mine broken and was even more paranoid after I ditched the whole assembly. It didn't feel any different though and it's been that way for over a year now. Proof is in the puddin'
 
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Sounds like you need to go for a ride in a MN12 with the ADDCO bars.

My XR7 completely outhandles my LX, and the only differences in the suspension between the two cars are the sway bars (ADDCO 1.25" vs. stock LX) and wheels/tires.

-Rod
 
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Jeremy_K said:
Sorry, but you can't convince me that a rear swaybar is that important much less a thicker more expensive one.

I'm not trying to convince you. I simply posted some very simple physical facts so that folks that read the thread don't try to fool themselves that a anti-sway bar serves no purpose. Their purpose is very specific and generally improve the performance of the suspension.
 
Guess some folks like the fact they are driving a car that is unstable because the oversteer in that car must be VERY scary to deal with :eek:

Frit
 
fturner said:
Guess some folks like the fact they are driving a car that is unstable because the oversteer in that car must be VERY scary to deal with :eek:

Frit
Another armchair physicist:rolleyes: . Don't tell me how unstable my car is because you're afraid to experiment with anything. I don't go posting crap on this forum unless it's something that I personally have had experience with. My experience with no swaybar is pretty much the same as my experience with one. I do like the fact that it's no sweat off my nuts when I take an off ramp at 60-70 MPH. You can tighten up your suspension all you want but it don't mean crap when your tires break traction and you start plowing forward while going around a curve. Oh yeah, I've had that experience too (with and without a swaybar).
 
LOL I guess then since your the obvious "expert" then they should take ALL the sway bars off all cars cause none of em need em cause it don't make no difference at all.

I know my '90 became hell on wheels when both the end links broke on the rear and I grounded the car till I fixed it..... but since I'm an armchair whatever, I guess I didn't have any of that happen.

Oh well, what do I know LOL!

Frit
 
A car with no rear stab. bar (or busted end links on that bar) would generally understeer, not oversteer. Without the bar acting on that end of the car, the suspension is softer on the rear.

The stiffest end of the car will loose traction first. So a car that has been designed with front and rear bars will have much more front roll stiffness if the rear bar is not working. Most cars for many years up until the mid-1980s only had front bars, because understeer is usually considered a safer condition than oversteer.

IMO, on a street-driven MN-12 car in which you never push through the twisties, a missing rear bar would probably not be noticed very much by most drivers.


cheers
Ed N.
 
Ed,

I don't know if its because of the stock suspension, but my ole girl was doing massive oversteer and very twitchy.....

Of course I like to drive through corners hard most of the time.

Give me a long twisty road ;) anyday... going in a straight line is boring LOL!

Frit
 
RE: in a straight line

Jeremy_K said:
I prefer fast rides in a straight line. :D
I guess it's a good thing that you'll never have to make that U-turn onto the return road, huh? :eek:

68COUGAR
 
One End Link or Two

fturner said:
my '90 became hell on wheels when both the end links broke Frit
The bar becomes ineffective when one end link is broken or removed. One or Two broken/missing, makes no difference. The effect is the same.

68COUGAR
 
How To Make Your Car Handle

fast Ed said:
A car with no rear stab. bar (or busted end links on that bar) would generally understeer, not oversteer. Without the bar acting on that end of the car, the suspension is softer on the rear.

The stiffest end of the car will loose traction first. So a car that has been designed with front and rear bars will have much more front roll stiffness if the rear bar is not working. Most cars for many years up until the mid-1980s only had front bars, because understeer is usually considered a safer condition than oversteer. Ed N.
Ed is absolutely correct. Anybody who ever drove a Big Block '60's Muscle Car, has felt what Massive Understeer feels like. Those cars usually have a front sway bar & no rear sway bar.

Everybody who wants to learn about modifying suspension components (springs, shocks, anti-sway bars, Z-bars, track bars, slapper bars, 3-link, 4-link, & everything else) should buy & read the book: How To Make Your Car Handle.

How would you like to design a working suspension with the Roll Center of Gravity, BELOW the pavement? This book will explain how to do it!!!

HowToMakeYourCarHandleBIGSIZE.jpg

(Sorry for image quality, I double sized the image from the website)

http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/ProductDetails_6392.ncm

How to Make Your Car Handle

Author: F PUHN

Pro methods for improving handling, safety and performance. How to check chassis, suspension and alignment; set up for drags, track, road course or highway. Skid pad testing, chassis tuning, anti-drag, increased traction, wings and spoilers. Practical data, formulas and instructions. Sftbd., 8 1/2x 11, 200 pgs., 400 ill.

Format: Softbound
Pages: 200
Length: 8.5w x 11h
ISBN: 0912656468
Catalog ID: 107901A

Regular Price: $18.95

Discount Price: $17.06

Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours

Happy Reading!!!

68COUGAR
 
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