fuel pressure regulator on 89

89FORCEFED95

Registered User
OK, I'm taking my car apart to change out the head gaskets. I know I'm blind but I can't see whats holding the fuel pressure regulator on. I've taken a nut off the back of the bracket that it sits on but the regulator won't budge. The rest of the rail and injectors pulled right up.
 
Three small socket head screws on the bottom side of the rail hold the regulator in position. It's much easier to get to them with the rail pulled off the manifold.

David
 
Welcome to my world.

The regulator is attached to a bracket. The bracket is attached over a stud that is screwed into the driver side head. There are three things attached with that stud and nut. One is the fuel rail, it's butt up against the head, so it's all the way in. then if you have a heater line going to the throttle body, that line comes off of that side and has a bracket holding in position behind the engine. That bracket is also on that stud. And finally, a ground loop for the harness will be there. (hmm, maybe i put that one back in the wrong place...ground...aluminum?)

Getting the heater hose thing off there requires pulling the matching bracket off the one on the passenger side head. then you can bend/push it off the stud.

I think that's how it worked out.
 
yes, this sucks....

I finally realized that I had just taken the first nut off and then had another bolt to remove. The line for the coolant running through the throttle body has been removed(actually, twisted and ripped off along with the pipe running over the left valve cover- yes the heater hose will be rerouted along with a bunch of other 'junk'). Now I am playing the waiting game since Ford doesn't believe in anti-seize when using steel bolts going into aluminum. Hopefully the PB Blaster will work:)
 
Ha. both my cars i had problems with those intake manifold bolts. One broke in the head. At least I'm not the only one.
 
Mike8675309 said:
(hmm, maybe i put that one back in the wrong place...ground...aluminum?)

Actually, aluminum is a better electrical conductor than iron is. Not sure what what the specific numbers are for the cast iron engine blocks or for the exact alloy that is used for the heads, but PURE aluminum is more than three times as electrically conductive as PURE iron is. PURE silver is the best electrical conductor with PURE gold being very close behind that. In fact, I believe I read somewhere once that the highline wires that carry electrical power are made of aluminum because it is a good conductor, an abundant resource, relatively cheap (compared to the alternatives) and of course it is lightweight.


OK.... back to your regularily scheduled discussion.
 
cool...

PB blaster may not help. I couldn't get the passenger side stud out without using an impact wrench once the head was off the car. The passenger side I finally got off by removing the coolant lines on the back of the block and anything else out of the way. Then a 3/8 wrench with a extension on the handle so I could get it to 24" long and apply some leverage leaning over the passenger fender to get behind the drivers side head with the wrench.

Grrrr... was all I could say the whole time.
 
I don't know if PB Blaster helped or not, but I got frustrated this morning, climbed on top of the intake manifold and jerked the hell out of the wrench: bolt came right out:)
 
hhhmmmmm 3/8's wrench, and here I thought all the bolts, nuts and everything except the drivers where metric.....

Know wonder there is so many stripped/broken bolts etc........ Don't they sell metric tools south of that border eh?

:D

Frit
 
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