MP FMIC & Griffin rad Q? (for 95 SC auto) David N./XR7-Dave please read

kws6000

Registered User
Ive been looking at getting a Griffin rad to install along with the MP fmic.I see they come in 2 sizes: 2" or 2.5" core and Im looking for advice regarding which to get .

My understanding is that the fmic mounts in the stock rad location and the rad /fan assy is mounted back towards the waterpump.

Is there enough room to go with the thicker core and is there enough space on the engine side for proper airflow through it or am I better off to go with the 2" core?

I intend to keep the a/c

Thanks in advance.
 
You may want to ask Charles at Magnum powers. To see which he built round..Perhaps even those that have this combo installed will chime in as well.
 
kws6000 said:
Ive been looking at getting a Griffin rad to install along with the MP fmic.I see they come in 2 sizes: 2" or 2.5" core and Im looking for advice regarding which to get .

My understanding is that the fmic mounts in the stock rad location and the rad /fan assy is mounted back towards the waterpump.

Is there enough room to go with the thicker core and is there enough space on the engine side for proper airflow through it or am I better off to go with the 2" core?

I intend to keep the a/c

Thanks in advance.

Yes there is enough room. The thickness of the tanks and side plates matter more than the core. My tanks are slightly over 3" thick and the core looks like it's about 2.5" thick. Magnum Powers supplied aluminum brackets for attaching the Griffin to the MP FMIC. Some people use screws, but I had mine welded on.

I'm using the MP supplied 16" spal fan and shroud intended for use with the stock radiator instead of what they normally provide for the aluminum radiator. I would suggest you do the same, because the 14" fan with a pair of mounting straps (no shroud) won't move nearly as much air as the 16" fan with a shroud.

It's a tight fit but the closest thing is the water pump pully to the lower IC tube. The engine gets plenty of airflow and runs very cool, unless you try running the AC when outside temps are above 90 degrees. Even with dual fans (pusher and puller) my temp will start climbing above the halfway point and that's wrmer than I like it, so I don't use the AC much.

Here are a few pics....let me know if you have any questions.

David
 

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Yep. Just like David said. My experience is the same. I've even installed a 2950cfm pusher fan, but once you turn the AC on in any real heat it doesn't much matter.

Ira
 
David Neibert said:
Yes there is enough room. The thickness of the tanks and side plates matter more than the core. My tanks are slightly over 3" thick and the core looks like it's about 2.5" thick. Magnum Powers supplied aluminum brackets for attaching the Griffin to the MP FMIC. Some people use screws, but I had mine welded on.

I'm using the MP supplied 16" spal fan and shroud intended for use with the stock radiator instead of what they normally provide for the aluminum radiator. I would suggest you do the same, because the 14" fan with a pair of mounting straps (no shroud) won't move nearly as much air as the 16" fan with a shroud.

It's a tight fit but the closest thing is the water pump pully to the lower IC tube. The engine gets plenty of airflow and runs very cool, unless you try running the AC when outside temps are above 90 degrees. Even with dual fans (pusher and puller) my temp will start climbing above the halfway point and that's wrmer than I like it, so I don't use the AC much.

Here are a few pics....let me know if you have any questions.

David


David ,thanks for the detailed reply.

Where exactly are the attachment brackets for the fmic to the rad?

Does your car actually overheat if the a/c is on , if the outside temp is 90 deg or does it run warm (220-230 deg)?

Do you run under drive pulleys? Thanks again.
 
kws6000 said:
David ,thanks for the detailed reply.

Where exactly are the attachment brackets for the fmic to the rad?

Does your car actually overheat if the a/c is on , if the outside temp is 90 deg or does it run warm (220-230 deg)?

Do you run under drive pulleys? Thanks again.

The MP FMIC has 3 studs drilled and tapped into the end tanks for attaching the radiator. MP supplied a set of formed aluminum plates (bent the shape of an angle) with a set of holes drilled in one flange that corespond with the studs in the end tanks. The other flange goes against the side plates of the radiator. You can drill them and use short screws to attach to the sides of the radiator, or you can have them welded onto the sides of the radiator like I did.

Here are a couple pictures.

No it doesn't actually overheat, but the temp gauge will get up to the M on NORM which is way to hot for me. Mine generally stays on or below the N any other time (about 180-190 degrees).

Yes I do have underdrives, but I don't think waterpump flow is the issue.

David
 

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I can not run my A/C for very long when it is over 88F. I turn it on for 5, then off for 5.
If I was to do it again, I would get a air to water Intercooler, of course there are trade off's there too.

Relocation of the condenser to unblock the radiator & intercooler; I have been looking for a universal parrallel flow condenser 12 x 12 to put either in the front wheel wells, or where the OEM mufflers use to be. (The Borla mufflers are longer than stock, and are angled from the 'T') If one does not cool enough, I'll connect two in parallel.
An A/C guy told me that inorder to use a 1996-2000 Honda civic condenser with fan (which is 12x13), I need a universal condenser block for tubing, or a used condenser with the tubing to splice into Ford tubing. You would think it would be easy to 'Google search' a 12 x 12 parallel flow condenser, not so. Oh, I did find one in Australia, but this guy refered me to Lennox in USA, and they do not have a automotive division, so still no luck. So I need to make a trip to the ricer junk yard. The search continues... http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9858&d=1102366560
 
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Question

Dave,

I'm trying to do the same set up and need a bit of guidence. The 16" fan that attaches to the Griffin radiator is not clear in the instructions. If you could clear this up. And the brackets that were supplied were yours pre-bent? anything else you might be able to bestow would be great as well.

M
 
ThunderGodRacin said:
Dave,

I'm trying to do the same set up and need a bit of guidence. The 16" fan that attaches to the Griffin radiator is not clear in the instructions. If you could clear this up. And the brackets that were supplied were yours pre-bent? anything else you might be able to bestow would be great as well.

M

I originally installed the MP FMIC kit using the stock radiator. It came with a spal 16" single speed fan and a black sheetmetal shroud. The shroud is just a flat plate with a hole cut for the fan and some holes for securing the fan and 4 other holes for attaching to the raditor.

The kit for A griffin radiator didn't use the same shroud or fan. It has two formed aluminum straps that the fan attaches to and uses a smaller spal 14" fan. When I switched to an aluminum radiator, I wanted to retain the larger fan with shroud that I already had, so I modified the shroud and the radiator slightly (drilled a ouple more holes) and it fit without any problem.

The shroud would work better and sit closer to the face of the radiator if it were formed along the mounting edges instead of a flat sheet, but it still works fine like it is.

David
 
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