Driving along then Engine light comes on and the car acts like...

jsue1961

Registered User
it is starving for fuel. I changed the fuel filter and the problem went away for a day. I try to accelerate and the engine revs but very minimally. I can maintain my speed then after a few minutes, the engine light goes off and everything is normal. I haven't been able to run any codes yet but if anyone has any suggestions on what I should look for I would appreciate it. I am driving down to Southern Cal tonight so I hope things will be ok.
 
Hmm.. sounds like a faulty DIS Module, if you check your codes and it gives you an error in regards to a coil pack failure, its probably your DIS (even if it does say Coil pack). Does the engine seem like it misfires at all ?
 
Driving along then Engine light comes on and the car acts like... Reply to Thread

Thanks for the suggestions.

Yes, I tried Techron Injection Cleaner, Yes the Fuel Filter is in the right direction.
If the DIS module has failed how would that explain the car running ok again? I am about to run codes on it.

I drove down to So. Cal and it ran fine, 29 miles to a gallon going 85-90 MPH. When i drove back, this problem showed up for about 60 miles. It fixed itself and was fine all the way home (200 miles). I did notice a vacuum leak on the passenger side PCV Filter. But I can't pin point it. Could it be the filter?
 
Finally got a scanner

OK here are my codes:

185: Mass Air Flow Sensor below normal
189: Fuel System at rich adaptive limit throttle/system lean - I think this was due to me trying to keep the car from stalling at trying to maintain momentum at drive - keeping the car at 0 boost/0 vac
217: DIS Fault Ignition system #3

and then I got a 10 (?), nothing in the code reader book about a 10.

Any ideas? HELP!!!!

I've replaced the O2 sensors on both sides already.
 
jsue1961 said:
it is starving for fuel. I changed the fuel filter and the problem went away for a day. I try to accelerate and the engine revs but very minimally. I can maintain my speed then after a few minutes, the engine light goes off and everything is normal. I haven't been able to run any codes yet but if anyone has any suggestions on what I should look for I would appreciate it. I am driving down to Southern Cal tonight so I hope things will be ok.

Does your tach bounce all over the place or sometimes stop working while the car is running?

If so it is your Cam Sensor.
 
doug93sc said:
Does your tach bounce all over the place or sometimes stop working while the car is running?

If so it is your Cam Sensor.

Doug93SC

No it doesn't. Strange thing is, when I started the car yesterday it was running fine.
 
JStudrawa said:
"29 miles to a gallon going 85-90 MPH"

Shouldn't this be almost impossible?

Ahhhh! The key word is "almost". Now "almost impossible" is an oxymoron isn't it? :eek: I was actually flirting with 27.5 miles per gallon going at 90-100 MPH. I was actually quite surprised myself. Conditions may have been good, cool night, cruise control, not stepping on the brake then opening her up, maybe a tail wind? :)

John
 
I haven't seen that code combination before, unfortunately. Don't worry about code '10' that is just a separation code between each actual code.
I think I'd clean the MAF sensor wires with some alcohol and a small swab (Q-tip) - you'll need an anti-tamper torx bit to remove the screws off the MAF top. Then I'd look at the O2 sensors to see if they are contaminated (white scale), if so replace them;they are normally only good for about 100,000m anyway. Next I'd check & clean the DIS connections at the DIS and coil pack ends, then check the plug wire connections at the coil, especially #3 cylinder. Then I'd get a tube of 'heat sink' grease from Radio Shack and re-coat the alum base plate under the DIS module - just remove the 4 screws pull the DIS off, clean the back & the mounting plate; then with a series of little dots of the compound form a grid of dots on the plate about 1/8" apart. This way the compound is equally spread under the DIS. You may be lucky and it's just getting too hot.
 
Joisey Jim,

Thanks for that info. I will be going to the shop to get some cleaner and some heat sink grease from Radio Shack. The O2 sensors were replaced last week and I haven't driven on them so I know they are good. I should've bought the code reader first, then I wouldn't have spent $110.00 on the pair. They did have 70k miles on them though so I guess it was close to changing them.

John
 
SC running great now! Thanks all for your suggestions.

It was the DIS. Got it from Autozone, Lifetime Warranty. 10 minutes to remove, clean the plate, put more heat sink and reinstall. Ran the car for 10 minutes in the driveway, then took it out for an hour. No problems! Through the troubleshooting process found lots of minor issues that may have exasperated the issue:

1. The vac line to the PCV was cracked at the "T"
2. The hose to the Cold Air Intake was cracked just under the DIS
3. The MAF sensor was very dirty, had a black build up on the sensor - Got some CRC cleaner and QTIP and cleaned it off
4. DIS failure

Meanwhile took the time to change the plugs (plugs look normal) and O2 sensors (repalaced about 70k miles ago). Big plus: the knocking under WOT went away after I cleaned the MAF. I think my car at 230k can go another 100k no problem.:D

John
 
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