Clutch Pedal Problem

John Machen

Registered User
background:
1994 SC, 5sp, 105k miles, few bolt ons, B&M shifter, exhaust, intake.
Fluid level was very slightly low, so I topped it off.

Anyways when driving home from work yesterday the clutch when depressed made a pop, and then was loose. Next shift was normal, and it was fine for the rest of the ride. Tonday its doing it more and more frequently, but still maybe 15% of the time. No fluid leaks.

It turns out the connection at the pedal to master cylendar push rod was missing the plastic bushing/clip. My dad had a spare from last time this clip wore out, so he is shipping it to me the next week. For the time I just zip-tie'd the push rod so it stayes on the pin on the side of the pedal.

A few days after installing the new clip it is broken already and I can't drive the car again. The master cylinder push rod hole is worn to an oval shape. And the pin on the clutch pedal is worn down as well. It looks like I need to replace the pedal and the master cylinder.

Any advice on this would be appreciated.
I need to remove the master cylinder, its supposed to be 1/4 turn CCW and it comes out, but I have been unable to turn it, not sure the best method or how tight this is supposed to be.

The second part with the pedal. I have gotten the two nuts off the engine bay side, but am having difficulty geting to the bolt that goes up into the bottom side of the dash. Is it possible to remove this bolt without tearing the whole dash and AC system out?

Thanks
John Machen
 
I just did the whole master cylinder thing, twice. dont ask. Grip the master cylinder body with a big pair of plyers and give it a few turns. Mine was in pretty good, but I dont think that it was every removed before. I never removed the pedal so I couldnt tell you.

Rick
 
you can always weld the pin back into shape, and the master cylinder eye also.
 
I am still in the process of pulling the pedal. Any pointers on geting the top bolt for the bracket. I pulled the lower dash and instrument cluster and can get to the bolt but can't remove it because it is against a square black wire conduit. Which appears to be attached to the back side of the dash, so I'd have to pull the whole dash it seems. Any tips?
Thanks
John
 
i had the exact same problem. my rod was oval shaped like no other and the pin on my pedal was half gone. i just took it into our shop at school and used the tig torch to add in some filler metal, then ground it to the stock shape. has worked fine and saved me the cost of a new master cylinder. hope that helps. btw a good weld shop should only charge you like 10 bucks max if you tell them what you need.
 
Well I got the new master cylinder in and bled. I used a grade 8 bolt (3/8" 16tpi, 2 1/2" cut down) with a brass sleeve bearing and some grease on the pedal for the pivot position. So that is together and working...

But I now have a poor throttle response/miss when I hit the gas. I have looked back over it and don't see any vacuum lines out of place, and the only thing I can see that isn't connected is a 2 pin grey connector, with only 1 wire (grey/purple) going into it. It comes off the wire harness just above the clutch pedal. I don't recall disconnecting it, but it has been a couple days working on this. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
John
 
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