SC Starter Problem
Hi Jim,
Even though you haven't heard from me, I've been thinking about the problem you're having with your SC. I would also have suspected the switch itself first, as I've had several Fords where that turned out to be the problem.
That's if it's just completely dead when you turn it to start. But it sounds like
you have some relays clicking when you turn to start, so thats a good thing.
Try to make sure that its not just from powering up, that its definitely from the start position being energized. Both the solenoid and/or the starter are easier to replace than the keyswitch, in my opinion.
On the test light: Clip goes to ground, then whatever wire you probe(or contact point you touch) that has power to it will make the light light up, showing you its hot. When on the correct terminal, the light should normally be off, when keyswitch is turned to start, light should light up, showing you that the relay is working like it should, relaying the signal to the starter solenoid on the starter.
If it does all this, then the problem is in the starter itself. While they normally show some signs(or noises) of going out, thats not always the case. Sometimes they just go. Usually this is the solenoid itself, not the actual starter motor. If the solenoid is good, but the starter itself is bad, thats when you will see the condition where the lights go dim, because its such a heavy current draw, almost a dead short, through the armature windings.
The manual also mentions to check the clutch pedal position switch, as the starter circuit is dead until the pedals fully depressed. Didn't see anyone mention that 'lil bugger......
From my Ford manual:
Here is the starter test for the symptom, Engine does not Crank:
Lift Car. Ignition Switch off, IN NEUTRAL.Remove plastic solenoid safety cap,pull straight back, do not pull on wire. Wire is hot at all times. Using DC Voltmeter, from starter B+ terminal to housing(ground) voltmeter should read between 12 to 12.45 Volts DC. Is correct voltage at the starter? No>Check wire connections and ground. Yes>Go to B2(manually Crank Starter)
Manually crank the starter. Here's how it says to do that....
First, there are three inputs on the solenoid, S, B+(on top), and M.
Ign.OFF,Trans in Neutral. Connect one end of a jumper wire to the starter B+ terminal.Momentarily touch the other end to solenoid "S" terminal (on left?).
Does the starter motor crank and crank quickly?
Yes> Check connections from ignition circuit to solenoid S-terminal for open or short.
No> Repace starter motor.
Thats the condensed version for ya, straight outta the Ford Manual for '95 SC Thunderbirds.
If its the solenoid or starter, and whether you or someone else does it, the negative terminal will need to be removed from the battery. Do this first before removing starter. Allow 10 minutes of drive time for the EMS computer to remap/relearn itself, whenever the battery gets disconnected.
If its in the keyswitch, you can also use a remote starter. If its the starter itself, you can do as before, push start, to get it going and off to the mech.
I hope this helps some. If you need to use my book, you're welcome to it.If your mech. needs my book, just let me know.
If you need a ride, call me, I'll help you out... ~95 pearlbird