i think i lost my super charger today

Merlon

Registered User
i was driving normal when i hear what sounded like a water pump or bad alternator. but im thinking the super charger went out today.

oh it sounded like it was in pain too. i dont know what to do or where to go. im so lost without my sc.

what could have casued it?
could be the oil, how do i check it?
that little plug in the fron t b y the snout with an allen wrench of some sort?
please be low oil, please
 
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There is a plug on the front lower left of the blower with an allen wrench head. Take the plug out and the oil level should be at the bottom of the threads when full.

Hope it's not too serious. :(
 
yeah, but i cant look at the oil now, i

had it towed out to my mechanic, and also it would have probably spewed sc oil in my face.

on another note, it could be the bearings and that could be a couple hundred to rebuild, unless i felt like doing it myself for the price of the kit.

the sound is like i threw rocks into a dryer, and oh man am i so pissed. i knew it was coming, i had a ~~~~ing feeling

every month something new, but when everything was finally fixed, i thought, whats next, this time its gonna be big, sure enough. damn
 
That sounds like the bearings you are describing. You might be able to do it yourself if you get the rebuild kit. I think you will need the bearings pressed in, so a machine shop can do that, but you should be able to do the rest of it.
 
if it sounds like rocks in a dryer, there is a coupler at the back of the snout that can go bad. From posts here, it sounds like "marbles rolling around". If it is the coupler, tbird88 makes a repair kit.
Good Luck
 
yeah?

man im already looking for another sc, 5 inutes after it leaves my driveway. i was hoping to add the OD pulley, new tb and maf this month. new cold air, and cobra seats next month. we will have to see what this sets me back after the mechanic tells me the problem. if its the bearings i think i could do it to save a couple hundred.

thanks man you put my mind at ease, the bearings and not the SC. no smoke out the tail pipes, and no real bucking problems, but the sound oh the sound.
 
I've got one I took off my 91 that was making 14 lbs. boost with 10% od pulley if you are interested in it. The pulley isn't on it now, but the sc is in good shape. No weird noises or anything like that. I have a ported one going on my car and don't need the old one, so I'll give you a good deal on it. PM me if interested.
 
I have a spare blower in very good condition here at my shop in NC.....

Shipping would be rather expensive.....
 
yeah im waiting on the news from the guy

if i do need a new SC, man im glad i know you guys.

my own little black hole money pit.
my cash cow
damn...

and this up coming week i was going to meet for a ford show. im so pissed right now.
if i had this done by a pro, what am i looking at price range, bearings or coupler?
 
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Grab a wrench ...

In my humble opinion, when you own a SC ... you need to take the plunge and do it yourself
 
Merlon said:
if i do need a new SC, man im glad i know you guys.

my own little black hole money pit.
my cash cow
damn...

and this up coming week i was going to meet for a ford show. im so pissed right now.
if i had this done by a pro, what am i looking at price range, bearings or coupler?


The supercharger is no big deal. It takes about 20 minutes to remove and if it's trashed you can pick up a good used one for $150-250 depending on what year the car is.

David
 
no doubt

but im not a mechanic, have never done anything a monkey cant.

i can change oil
filters,
plugs
window motor rebuild
simple things that bolt on and off.

i also need it done today, if thats actually possible...

but when problems arise with most anything else im there. im not about to chagne the belts or J/S without practice.
thanks for your opinio MRBLVD. but right now im not sure enough in myself to risk my car.

also it might not be the bearings, it may be the superchargers bad and then what im out money and time becasue i fixed something thats not broken. with this car parts are not cheap, so i need to be sure when i replace them.
 
David Neibert said:
The supercharger is no big deal. It takes about 20 minutes to remove and if it's trashed you can pick up a good used one for $150-250 depending on what year the car is.

David
yeah, i know but id have to go out ad buy more tools for that. and i dont have a car right now...:(

howver, if this thing does need a new SC im down to try it out. might as well, if i cant swing it, have the mech finish it off. could save some money, if not , didnt lose anything.
 
looks like texas Tbirds

well i talked with my mechanic, and i was told the noise is coming from the inside of the sc. that its the sc, and its toast at 133k...im reluctant to belive that, but im not a mechanic.

so to install one would be $450 for labor.
no parts included for that price.
is it resonable?
 
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In all honesty, pulling the SC isn't a hard job at all. Using the search can give you all the info you need. I did it for the first time about 6 months ago and it went fine. Up until then, I had only done the basics like yourself...change oil, plugs, filters, etc. I'm sure you can handle it and only basic tools are needed.

-Trey
 
okay then,

also im not so sure its bad, even though this guy says it is.

i dont see smoking, or anything, just really scary loud noises.

ill see if some buddies who have skills can help me through it if i do need to replace it.


edit:
its bad....new sc bad
 
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Hey man, you still remember where I live right ?? :D

Its not a hard job to pull the SC .. only special tool is going to be the spanner wrench, I have one.

You could pull the top on the SC and spin the rotors .. not many parts to it, but im betting on the Bearings or coupler.

If you really NEED one to make it to the meet next Saturday, I MAY be able to let you BORROW my 94/95 Supercharger while yours gets rebuilt.

- Dan
 
Merlon said:
so to install one would be $450 for labor.
no parts included for that price.
is it resonable?
$50 for labor??? IS his girlfriend included?:cool: It only takes a 20-30 minutes to take the SC off the car!
 
WOW!!!!! What is this mechanic's labor rate? Sounds like he wants to charge you $300/hour and then take his sweet azz time with the job. :rolleyes:

I think I would find a new mechanic ASAP. This guy is trying to get you to either put his kids through college or pay for his new house (or maybe both).
 
You Can Do It ...

$450 is totally out of line:eek:

Off the top of my head:
1. Remove top IC tube --- Harbor Freight is your friend -- set of spanner wrenches ~ 15.00 do not buy the special tool from Ford!, use a spanner wrench and a rubber dead blow hammer to loosen the collar, 13mm wrench or socket to remove the flange at the IC (5 to 10 minutes)

2. remove intake tube - disconnect the MAF wire, loosen the hose clamps at the TB, unclamp the filter housing top, wiggle the tube assembly and pull outward using the filter top for leverage (5 to 10 minutes)

3. disconect throttle cable linkage from the TB using a flat blade screwdriver to pry the cable loose, it will be tight fit, apply pressure slowly and then "pop" off it comes (1 minute)

4. Remove throttle cable bracket from intake plenum 2 10 mm capscrews, bottom one is a little tight (may not be on stock plenum) take your time and work it out ... this is were you might get a scrapped knuckle depending on how big you hands are (5 minutes)

5. Loosen the clamp (8 mm socket is best --- also for intake tube clamps) holding the rubber bypass tube to the inlete plenum, tighten the clamp on the outlet plenum, this tube can be a little tight if the SC has not been removed in some time, take a small flat blade screwdriver and work it under the tube ... be careful ... you don't want to cut the rubber coupling (2 minutes)

6. Remove the belt from the SC, find a breaker bar type socket wrench (I've also used on of those L'Cheepo torque wrenches with the needle indicator ... if yo do this, never use this for a torque wrench again) and a 18mm socket. You need this to rotate the tensioner pulley so you can remove the belt. The socket goes on the pulley, not the spring housing (2 minutes)

7. Use a 15 mm socket to remove the largest of the 3 bolts securing the SC to the intake manifold, use a 10 mm (may be 12) socket to remove the other two bolts. (3 minutes)

8. Do you have an EGR valve? If not, you are almost home ... if yes, you poor basrd:eek: you need to remove the EGR valve from the inlet plenum before you can remove the SC ... the first capscrew is easy 10 mm I think there is a second one .... yea I know you can't see it:confused: but trust me it is there and it is probably on everyones top ten list of things I hate about the SC ... get a short / stubby ratchet, a short extension, and a universal joint, if you can find a ratchet with an adjustable head (angles vs. just straight) this will help ... have faith and may the FORCE be with you ( 10 to 20 minutes) you will get frustrated but hang in there .... OTHERS may have some suggestions for you on this ... you may be able to get a little more room by moving the SC forward. Grab the SC pulley and use it for leverage ...rotate upwards and wiggle/jiggle/pull the SC towards the front of the car ... it is not going to move much with the EGR still attached but any amount will be appreciated ... trust me

9. You need to remove the vacuum tubes on the inlet plenum ... study them, mark them, draw a sketch, make them your friends, learn the middle names of their grandchildren ... the point being you need to put these back in the proper spot (5 to 10 minutes)

10. Now grab the snout/pulley in one hand and the back of the inlet plenum in the other, rotate the snout end up, wiggle/jiggle the SC out and away from the rubber coupling ... it is a little tight and it can catch on the fuel rails, take your time ...it is not heavy ... just watch the fuel rails and the ignition cables ... oh yea you need to remove the ignition cables going to the passenger side from the coil ... mark them and use dielectric grease when putting them back

11. When it comes time to put it back together, clean all bolt threads with a wire brush, use anti sieze on all threaded connections -- including the SC top collar & threads on the IC tube ... also, clean the bypass coupling connection on the inlet plenum with fine grit sand paper if needed (make sure to blow out any sand) ... then apply vasoline to the rubber coupler itself as this will make install much easier

12. Once the SC is off the car, remove the inlet plenum and SC top ... use orange rtv or loctite 518 to create these gaskets at install

YOU CAN DO THIS .... aside from that stupid EGR bolt this is not bad at all!!!

Your "mechanic":mad: should be ashamed for asking 450
 
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