how would it sound ?

thundrburd

Registered User
if I were to get long tube headers and just go striaght into dual exhaust all the way back, with no converters and not resonator ?
 
from what i hear the long tube headers are a waste of money. Port the stock manifolds and get a shop to weld you in some custom down tubes into a resonator, then either go just straight pipes out the back, or use mufflers. That should yeild a nice deep, throaty sound.
 
My Personal Experience

thundrburd said:
if I were to get long tube headers and just go striaght into dual exhaust all the way back, with no converters and not resonator ?
I can tell you about my personal experience. The difference between you & me, is the headers & I have a 2-1-2 Big Dawg, and you want "True Duals" (No X-pipe, or Resonator).

I have:
Shorty Headers
2.5" down pipes
NO Cats
No Resonator
2.5" - 3.5" - 2.5" Big Dawg Exhaust
Dual 2.5" Turbo muffs.

My car sounds Very Ricey when I get on it. The Ricey-ness seems to bother the people behind me, more than it does me.

Also the car has a VERY LOUD D-R-O-N-E betwen 1800 & 2000 rpm. That doesn't bother me though, because when I hear it, I know I'm EXACTLY at 25 mph in town (5-spd w/3.27 gears).

68COUGAR
 
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>Also the car has a VERY LOUD D-R-O-N-E betwen 1800 & 2000 rpm.<
I had the same prob with Dynomax Turbo Mufflers, and when I switched
to the 19" Borlas the DRONE went away.
 
I'm wondering how drag pipes would sound with the stock exhaust. I imagine it wouldn't be loud at all.
 
thundrburd said:
if I were to get long tube headers and just go striaght into dual exhaust all the way back, with no converters and not resonator ?

Without a resonator, it'll sound like a 4-banger rice rocket as soon as you give it any throttle. I've been there, and it was actually embarrassing to drive the car around with that exhaust note.

-Rod
 
ok, so is porting the stock manifolds something that they can do on the car, or do they have to take them off to do it ?? and what size tubes should I run back from there ? I might go that route seeing as how it would be cheaper and still open up the exhaust just as good
 

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bloodybobber said:
Well I am looking for the best of both worlds. A full open exhaust under boost and a quiet exhaust for crusing. I intend to use a boost activated 3" exhaust dump from ATP Turbo. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=ATP-ACS-010&Category_Code=BCS So at about 5 or 6 pounds of boost it will have open exhaust :eek: resonator only and below that stock exhaust.:) What do you think? Catch you later, Bob.

I think it's a waste of money and won't do anything except make a bunch of noise. Just install a properly sized exhaust and be done with it.

David
 
Re: Exhaust Cutouts

bloodybobber said:
A full open exhaust under boost and a quiet exhaust for crusing. I intend to use a boost activated 3" exhaust dump from ATP Turbo. So at about 5 or 6 pounds of boost it will have open exhaust :eek: resonator only and below that stock exhaust.:) What do you think?
I think that as you have drawn your concept, your "stock" exhaust will be stickking straight out from under your drivers door. I'm sure the drivers in oncoming traffic won't mind having to drive off the road, to avoid your "stock" exhaust sticking 8 feet out from the side of your car.

But on a serious note, your exhaust slamming straight into your cutout, will cause reversion pulses which will try to travel back to the engine, causing backpressure. Your idea will require 3 more 90 degree bends to hook up with the OEM exhaust, which is straight behind your cut out.

If you absolutely MUST have an exhaust cut out, there are much better ways of doing it, and none of them are Cheap. Oh, it's a good thing you have an auto, cuz your 5-6 lb. boost idea will not work well with a 5-spd!!!

I agree with Uncle Dave. An SCP 2-1-2 Little Dog will probably work better, and be cheaper to build.

68COUGAR
 
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Buy a set of exhaust manifolds

thundrburd said:
is porting the stock manifolds something that they can do on the car, or do they have to take them off to do it ?? and what size tubes should I run back from there ?
LOL...............I don't think that even Superman would attempt porting exhaust manifolds on the car.

I have seen ported manifolds for sale on E-bay. I expect that there would be a core charge.

OR

Buy a set of used manifolds, send them to your porter, and avoid the core charge. Then all you have to do, is R&R them. I've got a pr. of '89 EGR manifolds that I'll sell ya for $20 + (actual) postage.

With OEM or ported manifolds, you'll want to use 2.25" pipe to the resonator. Cats or No Cats, is up to you. Resonator of your choice. If you get dual 2.5" pipe from the resonator back, you won't loose flow due to compression bends.

68COUGAR
 
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bloodybobber said:
Well I am looking for the best of both worlds. A full open exhaust under boost and a quiet exhaust for crusing. I intend to use a boost activated 3" exhaust dump from ATP Turbo. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=ATP-ACS-010&Category_Code=BCS So at about 5 or 6 pounds of boost it will have open exhaust :eek: resonator only and below that stock exhaust.:) What do you think? Catch you later, Bob.

That will be a mother ~~~~~~~ ~~~~~ to tune (i think???:confused: :confused: :confused: ???) because of the difference in back pressure, wont it mess with some calibrations? Dave? Anyone?
 
68COUGAR said:
I think that as you have drawn your concept, your "stock" exhaust will be stickking straight out from under your drivers door. I'm sure the drivers in oncoming traffic won't mind having to drive off the road, to avoid your "stock" exhaust sticking 8 feet out from the side of your car.

But on a serious note, your exhaust slamming straight into your cutout, will cause reversion pulses which will try to travel back to the engine, causing backpressure. Your idea will require 3 more 90 degree bends to hook up with the OEM exhaust, which is straight behind your cut out.

If you absolutely MUST have an exhaust cut out, there are much better ways of doing it, and none of them are Cheap. Oh, it's a good thing you have an auto, cuz your 5-6 lb. boost idea will not work well with a 5-spd!!!

I agree with Uncle Dave. An SCP 2-1-2 Little Dog will probably work better, and be cheaper to build.

68COUGAR

you are right, I took another look as I was working from memory. I knew the exhaust did a 90 to the drivers side to go around the gas tank right after the resonator but forgot how close it was. As for the oost point that would be adjustable with a manual boost controller
 
bloodybobber said:
you are right, I took another look as I was working from memory. I knew the exhaust did a 90 to the drivers side to go around the gas tank right after the resonator but forgot how close it was. As for the oost point that would be adjustable with a manual boost controller

You can't use a boost controller on an SC. Boost is dictated by the pulley diameter and how much air your motor and exhaust flows.

David
 
David Neibert said:
You can't use a boost controller on an SC. Boost is dictated by the pulley diameter and how much air your motor and exhaust flows.

David
David the boost controller will only control the point at which the dump would open, not SC boost. A y-pipe would also be the ticket. As for tuning since the dump point could be planned on it could be tuned for where a manual dump would require a switch chip. In my old age I like a quiet cruise but if I call on all the ponies noise is a feel good. I have a 5.0 Mustang with flowmasters and it is just too loud to be a daily driver. I am already having hearing loss and tinnitus so the stock exhaust is nice but I understand the need for low backpressure at boost. Catch you later, bob.
 
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