Battery in trunk?

tim

Registered User
Can some one please send me a diagram on how to wire the trunk mounted battery so the kill switch in back kills the engine? It has something to do with turning off the alternator. Thanks Tim:D
 
You should have 2 terminals on your switch. Your short battery cable will go from the battery in the trunk + to one of the terminals. Your long battery cable will go from the other switch terminal all the way to the starter relay on the fender where the stock + cable was. Now run at least an 8 gauge cable from the starter relay (same post that the alternator cable attaches to), all the way back to your kill switch. Connect it to the same terminal as your short + battery cable. This will kill the car completely by killing the alternator and battery at the same time. I learned it from Pro Street Rich. It's worked great on my car. It will shut it down instantly.
 
Thanks a bunch now all I have to do is get the time to do it. hopefully this weeekend coming up.:D
 
Tim,

If your planning to take the car to the track, use a push pull type switch and not the rotary style that Jeremy used or it won't pass tech inspection.

David
 
David, Is that an NHRA rule about the rotary switches? Mine passed at Thunder Valley last shootout and It's passed a few times here this season. We have a ghetto track here though. I know my battery box isn't legal but it always passes too. Tim, You could do a search for where others have put the push pull switch. There's ways you can do it without being able to see it for everyday driving.
 
Jeremy_K said:
David, Is that an NHRA rule about the rotary switches? Mine passed at Thunder Valley last shootout and It's passed a few times here this season. We have a ghetto track here though. I know my battery box isn't legal but it always passes too. Tim, You could do a search for where others have put the push pull switch. There's ways you can do it without being able to see it for everyday driving.

Yes...NHRA rule.

David
 
David Neibert said:
Yes...NHRA rule.

David
NHRA said:
8.4 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters. "

To meet the requirements, the disconnect switch must stop all electrical activity and kill the engine. Since there are two sources of electrical power in the car (battery and alternator), the switch must disconnect both. This will require running the alternator's output back to the disconnect switch to the same side as the battery's positive terminal.
David, have the rules changed from the above excerpt? From what I read above, a rotary switch is acceptable provided it is clearly marked. I have one in my 9 second camaro and have never been flagged by tech @ E-town, even on top fuel days when tech is actually somewhat strict.

Paul
 
Why only on relocated batteries. How is the vehicle different in a accident that the requirement is only on relocated batteries. Is it okay to leave a vehicle running if the battery is in the stock location.
 
BT Motorsports said:
David, have the rules changed from the above excerpt? From what I read above, a rotary switch is acceptable provided it is clearly marked. I have one in my 9 second camaro and have never been flagged by tech @ E-town, even on top fuel days when tech is actually somewhat strict.

Paul

Paul,

It appears you are correct. I looked at the most recent NHRA FAQs and copied this portion. In reading all this push pull stuff I completly overlooked the word "IF". Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the correction.

I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.

But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

David
 
My setup:

killswitchpusher.jpg


When I drive on the street, I remove the rod setup and reinstall the switch knob and undrilled taillight.

killswitch.jpg


-Rod
 
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MY REAR BUMPER COVER ISHOLLOW SO i WAS GIONG TO PUT THE ROTARY SWITCH THERE AND IT COMES WITH A ON OFF DECAL.:D
 
Either type can be used. It only states that "IF" a push/pull type is used, it must be set up so push is off.

8.4 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters.

My cutoff

bird-nov25.jpg
 
Thanks guys got it in over the holiday and it works great. The switch cuts the engine off like its supposed to.:D
 
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