Hard Starting / Check Engine Light & No Tach

David C. Miller

Registered User
Hi, I was woundering if anyone else has had this problem. My car sat for a few days went to start it and it crank ok but did not start (always starts first few seconds of cranking)Tired again it started cranking really slow,with a attempt of starting, but NO start. Tried again and it fired right up it sounded a bit out of tune but it started, I looked down and my tach was not working and my check engine light was on. I got out to open the hood , then looked back in the car and the ck eng light was out and the tach was working.I drove it around the block and the check engine light came on and 20 sec. later it went off .I shut the car off and it started fine. Im thinking ICM(ingition control module)because I did not have a tach.But could it be crank or cam sensors how can I check? Im stumped.Im hoping someone else can inlightin me on my problem. Thanks... Dave PS this is a great site!!!!!
 
My car did the EXACT same thing the other day. When I pulled the codes it was something to do with the DIS module being grounded or something like that. I think there is a loose wire somewhere as it hasn't done this since.
 
Don't remember specifically, but someone will help. There was a great article on troubleshooting the ignition system in the Charging Thunder last month that went over this.

I believe it is the Cam Sensor failed or a wire has come loose. On our cars (not all DIS systems) the Cam sensor is used to detect top dead center on cylinder number 1.

With the information from the CAM sensor, the engine computer will guess when it should fire the spark. Sometimes it guesses right and the car starts. Other times it guesses wrong and it won't start.

I think the tach not working is also a good sign to point to something regarding the CAM sensor. Check all the wires, unplug them and plug them back in.

If the problems persist, try to pull the codes. If no codes and still problems, I'd try to replace the sensor.

Anyone with other ideas?
 
These were my codes, 5 minutes after the exact same thing happened to me. I hope they help.

212: Loss of tach input to ECA; Spout circuit grounded.
214: Distributorless cylinder identification circuit failure.

The DIS module should have something to do with the tachometer. I remember when I installed my remote starter on the '89 I got the tach input wire from the DIS module.
 
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I agree with it being the Cam sensor. Autozone and other major chains sell them for about $25. Takes about 15 minutes to install.

David
 
I've verified that the Cam Sensor notifies the dis when the number one cylinder is on the compression stroke. I also verified that without that signal the computer will "guess". Sometimes it's right, sometimes it's not. It can also impact the tach.

Just make sure you check the wiring before you replace parts. Old cars + hot engine bay = cracked wires.

Re-reading the DIS 101 in the June Chargin' Thunder issue validates the money I spent on the SCCOA membersip this year.

An excellent article written by Eben Farley that I'm sure I'll reference regularly.
 
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