89 sc needs help

thundrburd

thundrburd

Registered User
Ok, guys need your help, any help would be great, for one the battery light stays on all the time, some times it will flicker on and off, but usually it is just always on, also the rpm guage is going crazy , it jumps all over the place, yesterday it was at 0 after it broke down, and stayed after It was restarted, it is an 89 sc, and I'm getting tired of messing with it , so anyhelp would be greatly appreciated, thanks

Tony
 
For the battery light, have your alternator checked out......

Your tach problems could be from your cam postion sensor (CPS)......
 
could be a bad ground from one of the 2 harnesses that enters in your cluster. Do you have other (electric) problems? Are your interior lights okay? Dash lights okay?

You should check indeed your alternator & battery + grounds.

What the tach concerns, if car starts good, then its just the gauge wich is the cullprit, and probably not the cam position sensor.
 
well I got the altenator from auto zone a few years ago and I have brought it back and they say there is nothing wrong with it, but I think it is the altenator too, and Is it hard to change the sensor on the 89, I have changed it on my 95 before with dave nieberts help, but if it is the same I think I could do it, but I dont know if you need anything special for the 89's, I have heard somewhere that you do, but I dont know for sure, thanks

Tony
 
dutch, the car started, but it did die while I was driving it, so thats why I would think there is something wrong other than the guage itself, but I dont Kmow for sure, and I didnt even think to check the grounds, thanks for the advice, if anyone else has more ideas it would be greatly appreciated

Tony
 
thundrburd said:
well I got the altenator from auto zone a few years ago and I have brought it back and they say there is nothing wrong with it, but I think it is the altenator too, and Is it hard to change the sensor on the 89, I have changed it on my 95 before with dave nieberts help, but if it is the same I think I could do it, but I dont know if you need anything special for the 89's, I have heard somewhere that you do, but I dont know for sure, thanks

Tony
Click to expand...

Several people of had problems with AZ alternators. Ford OEM seem to work better.

I'm pretty sure the cam sensors install the same way between early and late model SCs.
 
Ok, so the guy I know, that supposedly gives deals for work on cars must be bull~~~~ting me then, he said that you have to have special ~~~~ to replace the sensor because if you dont you will mess up the timing or something like that
 
That is a cam synchronizer. It is necessary (not really if you do a search on what the experts here know how to do) only if you have removed the stem that the CPS sits on or changed a cam. Once this is set, changing the CPS involves 2 5.5mm (of course) bolts and an electrical connector. About 5-10 minutes. I had a 90 and currently have a 95 and it is the same on both.

I think i recall some post about putting heatsink on it somewhere but I never have.
 
ok, so does anyone know what amp the altenator is, I called ford and they said there are 3 different amp altenators, for an 89 sc, thanks

Tony
 
He's not BSing, he just doesn't know enough to do it without a special tool. You need to check the voltage at your battery while the car is running. If the alt is overcharging the light will come on also. It will end up killing your battery if you drive very far. Invest in a 50.00 multi meter, and read the instructions. It will get you through both problems, and many others that will crop up. My tach had a problem with one of the zener diodes on it's board causing intermitant failure. Time for a replacement tach.:D Just a couple thoughts, hope it helps.
Danny
 
Can't help you on the amperage (i think it was 110 on my 90 but not sure) but before starting it with the new alternator, charge the battery. The "stock" alternator is not built to charge a low battery, it will overheat and shorten it lifespan.
 
I checked the voltage and it was at 13.5 when it was running, normally it is about 14.4 and when it sits its at 12.5 not running, so do them numbers sound right ?
 
Those numbers sound fine. It should be 14+ right after start up, and 13.6 after it has charged the battery. Key off 12.6 says you battery is good. I think the battery light is just kidding around with you.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top