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View Full Version : gm air dam, do i ned it?



Merlon
07-06-2006, 01:47 PM
so i have heard that yes i should have an air dam. but my car doesnt overheat unless im going 100+

drove 50 miles freeway yesterday didnt overheat until i started to hit triple digits. even then took it off the highway and it cooled down in minutes to normal operating temps.

other than that im good in traffic and around town driving. its like $27 here, but if i really dont need it, because mostly i wont be getting 100mph time in with my car, should i spend the cash?

could buy a pizza, some zaino...something, a fan for the intercooler. dont even remeber having ti, maybe once, then i went on 101 and that freeway tore it off?

Tony8470
07-06-2006, 11:09 PM
My old car didn't have one cause I hit a bump too hard. Current one has it. It cools itself off driving into 2nd gear. I was recently stuck in standstill traffic for 30 mintues plus. Having just put it back together I was watching all the guages. As soon as it the traffic broke, and I was on my way, the guage immediately started reading cooler. The less time you spend with a hot engine the longer it will last.

David Neibert
07-06-2006, 11:42 PM
Anything you can do to make it run cooler means more power and longer lasting headgaskets.

David

Thomas A
07-06-2006, 11:43 PM
For the relatively low cost, it is a very worth while investment.

Thomas

trife86
07-06-2006, 11:47 PM
I ran with no airdam for awhile and on the highway anything past 60mph it would be slightly past the M on the gauge. I just put in a stock airdam today and in 80degree weather highway temps are between the N and O

Kevin Varnes
07-07-2006, 12:58 PM
Are you guys running one or two air dams (front bumper cover sandwiched in between them) as alluded to in some older posts? I just went out and picked one up at the Chevy dealer for $19.50. Just curious if the one lower air dam is sufficient or if two is that much better.

acb92sc
07-07-2006, 01:33 PM
Anyone Have The P/n For The Air Dam That Works? For Some Reason My Computer Wont Let Me Search ( I Hate These Darn Things Sometimes)...
Thanks

Kevin Varnes
07-07-2006, 01:34 PM
GM P/N 22635885 I just picked one up at lunch under this part number. Try Chevy and Pontiac dealers for it.

Merlon
07-07-2006, 01:55 PM
would it be cheaper? pontiac seems to this its worth $27 bucks!!! ill try a chevy dealer, see if they are more reasonable.

Merlon
07-07-2006, 02:01 PM
$19 bucks...to bad it wont be here till monday. if i ordered it yesterday, id have it today.

007_SuperCoupe
07-07-2006, 02:42 PM
would it be cheaper? pontiac seems to this its worth $27 bucks!!! ill try a chevy dealer, see if they are more reasonable.

Even at $27 it is much cheaper than about any other cooling modification that you can make. In the big picture it's really not that much at all. Not any different than an oil change, etc. It's something small that can be done that will make a big difference in the cooling capability of your SC.

I spend more than that on my oil changes and I change the oil myself...

Merlon
07-07-2006, 04:23 PM
from a mechanic i know. does it at price of materials

id rather a mechanic touch it down there, rather than a jiffy lube novice.

Merlon
07-07-2006, 04:31 PM
my cars not a hot car, it usually runs cool. but it will stumble in boost when warm....think thats a seperate issue, maybe clogoed injectors, or pplugs...

so hard to change em though

Kevin Varnes
07-07-2006, 04:51 PM
You probably do need new plugs and wires. They aren't that bad to do once you get used to the physical and emotional scarring that the process leaves on you.

XxSlowpokexX
07-07-2006, 07:05 PM
Hmmmmm Do you hav ethe factory SC air dam?...I never found a need to change mine

Merlon
07-07-2006, 07:10 PM
i only know of one under the front bumper. and no its gone.
what other one is there?

physical and emotinal scarring...damn funny, becasue from what ive read...its 100% true.

ive read all the ways to do em, im just not really inclined to get in there and tear some skin.

bust some knuckles....
find where the bandages are hiding.

T-bird Tim
07-07-2006, 07:49 PM
I picked up a used air dam off of a mid 90's Taurus. Was exactly the right length and made a big difference in keeping the car cool at highway speeds. I got it at a salvage yard for free. Even if I would have paid for it, it would have been cheap. Very easy to install and well worth it.

Thomas A
07-08-2006, 02:16 PM
When I installed mine, I took the factory one and flipped it upside down and mounted them both on there. The GM one on the bottom of the bumper cover, and the factory one on top. This made for a solid air dam all the way to the bottom of the radiator so all the air was getting pushed up through the AC condensor and radiator.

Thomas

Kevin Varnes
07-08-2006, 02:20 PM
Hmm, my factory air dam was MIA. I'll try putting the GM one on there and see how it goes (if I can ever get it started). If it doesn't work well enought I'll go with the double setup.

92_coupe
07-08-2006, 09:19 PM
Merlon
you can look at mine any time to see how simple the job is... maybe the next car show at apex in 2 weeks. "Ramone just called me and said i better show up!!!!

The job of installing a GM air damm is simple if you have ramps to drive up on, if not get some. ramps make all future work easy under a SC.

Just so you know how hot your engine is running, i will give you a referance chart for the factory gauge .The figures are pretty acurate .

Also what ford programed into your computer for the cooling fans "older SC's have a 2 speed single fan & newer SC's have 2 seprate fans one low speed puller & one high speed pusher fan"

The low speed fan is factory set to start at 220 degrees and the high speed fan at 228 or higher. Thats awful hot !

GAUGE reading BLUE = 100* N = 190* O = 210* R = 220* M = 240* RED = 260*



SC cooling mods :

1) Putting a GM air dam will help deliver more air to your radiator at speeds above 30 mph and will allow your fans to rest at highway speeds.

2) installing a 180 thermostat in place of the 195 will allow the coolant to flow sooner But the cooling fans are still factory set to turn on WAY TOO HIGH. You can override the fans by turning on the AC, splicing into the ECM, or EEC Tuner/Chip. EEC Tuner/Chip is the best way !

3) Installing front mounted engine oil and trans coolers will reduce the amount of heat that is delivered to your small SC radiator allowing the radiator to cool only the water in the block & heads This mod will show the greatest improvment in keeping it cool even in summer time heat.

3) Most Important ....Running your SC At 180-190 degrees it will have more power & Last much longer.

EddiE

Blown 91 Bird
07-10-2006, 02:26 PM
my car stays the same whether its cruising or running it up to 100+.. temp. wise.. :confused:

all ive done was the fan switch mod and in this humid ~~~ 100 degree south florida weather, mine stays at 180-190 sitting in traffic or driving.

Merlon
07-10-2006, 04:29 PM
when i kick it up to highway speeds over 70mph, i et hot, to hott.
like almost ready to boil over.

i was going mayb 100+ and it moved up fast, i think the wind deflector might work a little at those speed. i did the cooling fan mod, ditn change the Tstst, used a gallon of water mixed with ice water product, like royal purple.

now im changing the plugs tommorow do i need to gap em colder or what?

FredSC
07-21-2006, 01:33 PM
Finally got my GM air dam on. Looks like I picked up a letter on the temp. guage. Use to run mid gauge at 70-80, now between N and O or on the N. Also seems to help around town, as long as I'm going 15-20, it stays on the N.

SCreamin
07-21-2006, 01:47 PM
i just got my SC a few weeks ago, it's a 95 and if it's the air dam behind the bumper that you're talking about...mine is there and my car runs very cool no matter if i'm sitting in traffic or SCreamin down the freeway...

FredSC
07-21-2006, 04:32 PM
That's the one, my 95 never had one. I have a long trip coming up so that should "test" it at sustained higher speeds. I'm seeing the same thing around town, if i'm moving it's on the N or between the N and O.

iwannanSC
07-21-2006, 05:13 PM
Anyone have a pic of what this air dam (either factory or Chevy replacement) looks like?

92_coupe
07-22-2006, 12:48 AM
Running between the N and the O is about 195-210 and with the stock 192/195 thermostat is about as low as it could go. if you drop down to a 180 thermostat it will be just on the low side of the N and that is between 180- 190

92_coupe
07-22-2006, 01:52 AM
i just got my SC a few weeks ago, it's a 95 and if it's the air dam behind the bumper that you're talking about...mine is there and my car runs very cool no matter if i'm sitting in traffic or SCreamin down the freeway...

On my 92 it's the black one that hangs down close to the ground .....and scrapes the speed bumps. I can even plow snow with if i had to :p

Merlon
07-28-2006, 04:31 PM
the effect was immediate. i had been driving all day, and only took 20 minutes to extend the holes, and find mybolts and nuts.

Took it on a short drive on the freeway, and it actually got cooler than it was driving it on the expressway without it. it makes a difference. and for $25 it was definatley worth it.

Looks like shiete, ugly ~~~ thing, but it works.
in case anyone in the future needs it the part number is 22635885

Melon
07-28-2006, 05:34 PM
I don't think it looks all that bad. I was able to run 70 down the interstate a few weeks ago when it was 100+ and the temp gauge was between the O and R - though, no AC. It's not working yet :D Helped both the radiator and the trans cooler run cooler.

-Melon

Merlon
07-28-2006, 06:21 PM
i use the oil and tranny cool, as well as radiator coolant.

https://vichubbard.com/shop/product.php?productid=63683

well worth the moeny. you can get it from pepboys too.

ruswin
07-30-2006, 01:47 PM
I have been trying to get the temp down on my 93 here in Arizona. At 110 ambient temps, it used to run on the hight side of the M. Short of replacing the radiator, here's what I did.

1) There is some gaps on the top and bottom of the fan shroud. I "sealed" the gaps with a combination of high temp aluminum duct tape and a piece of 1/2" diameter hose squeezed betweeen the shroud and the rad.

2) I noticed a large gap between the bottom of the front spoiler and the radiator. Again using the aluminum tape, I constructed a "Scoop" of sorts to redirect more air up to the rad.

3) Added a quart of Engine Kool in the rad.

Don't know which solution helped the most but now it runs solidly in the middle of the O. Much better!