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View Full Version : Transmission Shudder really worries me



Joisey Jim
07-10-2006, 11:14 AM
For a while now the drive train shudders when I'm cruising along at say 55mph, then go WOT. If I blast it off the line at a traffic light the car is just fine. I thought maybe it was the beginings of a bad U-joint and I already had a replacement alum. shaft with new joints ready to install - but it still does it after putting in the new shaft. I have solid engine and transmission mounts, but I do still have the original trans cross member and diff. bushings. I have a pair of the urethane trans cross-member outer bushings, but need to cut & weld the exhaust to be able to pull the cross-member to install them; so it's still on my "to do" list. The typical 4R70W trans shudder (1994 auto) when shifting isn't evident either; I cured that years ago with some trans upgrades and changing over to Mercon V. So I'm kinda stumped as to the cause. Could it even be my rear shocks (which were changed to Tokico 2's a few years back). Any help/suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Dirtyd0g
07-11-2006, 11:13 AM
How are the plug wires? could be a od band slipping if it's not the normal converter shudder.
Alan

Joisey Jim
07-12-2006, 12:38 PM
Plug wires are fine, the motor runs great except when I get on it while already doing 40-60mph. It's not the old up-shift shudder that early 4R70W's are prone to ( I took care of that years ago with some '96 upgrades and converting to Mercon V); so maybe it is the OD bands, because it's likely dropping out of OD when I go WOT.

Quik95SC
07-12-2006, 03:12 PM
Jim,
I just had a similar problem. After talking to a good friend who is a Ford Transmission Master Mech, He said to try new solenoids, especially the TCC lockup solenoid. I got a complete master solenoid kit for about 75.00 and it shifts great in all gears and no shudder. The best thing is you can do it while the tans is still in the car, just drop the pan and they are right there as you know.

Hope it helps
Smitty

Clincher
07-16-2006, 10:01 PM
My car is doing the same thing. It shifts fine going up but after crusing (regardless 30 - 60 mph) and punching the gas, it shudders... shakes the car. Please let me know what you find out. I'm not sure what to do. Is this a tranny problem? or, could it be something with the engine. This car has been sitting up for a while and I know for sure the front seal is leaking.

thirdbird
07-17-2006, 10:24 PM
Jim,
I just had a similar problem. After talking to a good friend who is a Ford Transmission Master Mech, He said to try new solenoids, especially the TCC lockup solenoid. I got a complete master solenoid kit for about 75.00 and it shifts great in all gears and no shudder. The best thing is you can do it while the tans is still in the car, just drop the pan and they are right there as you know.

Hope it helps
Smitty


My 95 shuddered going into O/D the way you are describing yours going out of O/D.
Toward the end of that tranny, mine started shuddering with any shifting relating to O/D, and also some 2-3 shifts:eek:
If you had previously had a shudder and cured it with a fluid change, you were lucky. If the solenoid replacemet helps let us know!
My money is still on the bands being worn though, but I hope not:(
Wish I knew about that kit before i decided to sell my 95!:mad:
I'd still be driving it!:mad: :mad:

Sharon Silver
07-18-2006, 12:33 PM
This sounds very much like the problem I had. The wire bundle that runs to the neutral position sensor and the solenoids fell off it's mount and got chewed up by the shifter. The insulation was gone from all the wires and they were all touching. I replaced the bundle and filled the tranny with Merc5 and have no more problems.

fturner
07-18-2006, 01:13 PM
Wouldn't a failed transmission mount possibly cause that problem to?

Frit

Quik95SC
07-18-2006, 03:40 PM
Well I have had the solenoids replaced for about 2 weeks with about a dozen rounds of drag racing, as well as my normal daily driving, and not a shift problem yet.

Again this may not be the solution to your individual problem, but it is a relatively easy/inexpensive fix. If it doesn't fix your problem simply put the new solenoids in the rebuild for extra insurance.

Smitty