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1badcoupe
07-11-2006, 09:08 AM
Hello,
I was talking with another sccoa member the other day tattoo, heck of a nice guy. and he told me about the website.I have been looking for something like this for a while.The stealership have enough of my money.

I have a 91 supercoupe bone stock,I have it had since new.The other day my dash brake lights came on and the pedal went rock hard.After going over some drawing that have collected over the years i found the accumulater was on it way out.The pump doesnt come on with the key.I replaced the relays(the brown one) to no avail.I went over my evtm and jumped the 4 pin connector to the pump and the motor came on.I jumped the grey wire with red stripe to 12v and grounded the soild grey.I have power going to the relays.I know i can "hot wire" the pump to come on from a switch in the cockpit. Can someone tell me what the cycle time is for the pump motor?Just until i can get a pressure switch.

I know that this isnt the way to do things? But i am on a budget these days.New house 1 and 1/2 kids,you know all the fun stuff.

If i could get someone to shine some light on this problem that would be super.This is my daily driver and having it sit is just not an option for me.

shadow357x2
07-11-2006, 11:46 AM
Mine will run for about 3 seconds BUT if you drive it and manually have to repressurize it make sure you dont forgot to recharge it.
Just hope you dont need to make a quick stop after forgetting to repressurize it....



S

1badcoupe
07-11-2006, 01:22 PM
Thank you for the reply.How long should the system stay "charged" with normal driving?

LJGriggs
07-11-2006, 01:45 PM
The following is provided for reference only:
The pump will typically cycle for a few seconds about every forth or fifth time you press the brake pedal. If the pressure gets too low for the system to operate, the ABS and BRAKE warning indicators should come on. When that happens, it will take a few seconds for the pump to fully pressurize the system.

Now, consider this:
What you are thinking about doing is not a good idea!!! Remember, you aren't the only person at risk... everyone around you could become a victim of this "modification". I'd hate to think of the amount of civil and criminal liability involved in case of an accident...

1badcoupe
07-11-2006, 05:02 PM
Well i have replaced the accumulater.How long should it take to charge the system with a new one.I found i had a bad ground on the pump.I already bought the accumulater,so i figured i would use it.




Quote...Now, consider this:
What you are thinking about doing is not a good idea!!! Remember, you aren't the only person at risk... everyone around you could become a victim of this "modification". I'd hate to think of the amount of civil and criminal liability involved in case of an accident...Un Quote.....

Well it seems that i have met the leader of the morality squad.No matter how many forums your on there always seems to be one or two.
My thread was started to gain some insight from guy and girls who have owed these cars and serviced them.I was looking to pick up a few pointers on the very fickle nature of these cars.I have been around cars all my life and i fully understand the respect that they demand.So preach to the illegal street racers in your community.

However, should i have any questions surrounding the legalities of car modifications and or civil liability,you will be the first person i contact.

Tickler
07-11-2006, 05:41 PM
Judge not, lest you be judged. A little caution never killed anyone. If this is your contribution to the forum, let me be the first to say, no thanks.



Well i have replaced the accumulater.How long should it take to charge the system with a new one.I found i had a bad ground on the pump.I already bought the accumulater,so i figured i would use it.




Quote...Now, consider this:
What you are thinking about doing is not a good idea!!! Remember, you aren't the only person at risk... everyone around you could become a victim of this "modification". I'd hate to think of the amount of civil and criminal liability involved in case of an accident...Un Quote.....

Well it seems that i have met the leader of the morality squad.No matter how many forums your on there always seems to be one or two.
My thread was started to gain some insight from guy and girls who have owed these cars and serviced them.I was looking to pick up a few pointers on the very fickle nature of these cars.I have been around cars all my life and i fully understand the respect that they demand.So preach to the illegal street racers in your community.

However, should i have any questions surrounding the legalities of car modifications and or civil liability,you will be the first person i contact.

FredSC
07-11-2006, 06:04 PM
While you are waiting for the attorney to return your call on how to charge your SC accumulator.

You might want to only charge it 3-5 secs. at a time until it turns itself off. Giving it a couple minute break in between. The pump doesn't have the duty cycle to charge one from scratch in one session. It might overheat and burn out.


i have met the leader of the morality squad
NO, but you just missed making a really good friend. With only 3 posts, it is real difficult to determine your skill level. With "new house 1 and 1/2 kids", Larry was just trying to make sure your keep the things that are important to you, including your life.

If you do need to run things past an attorney, please do so under one of the other forums. The wealth and breathe of knowledge of these (mostly) friendly SuperCoupe owners is just incredible in so many areas. Their wisdom has saved me untold hours and dollars, some of it even on my SC.

shadow357x2
07-11-2006, 06:07 PM
NO, but you just missed making a really good friend. With only 3 posts, it is real difficult to determine your skill level. With "new house 1 and 1/2 kids", Larry was just trying to make sure your keep the things that are important to you, including your life.

If you do need to run things past an attorney, please do so under one of the other forums. The wealth and breathe of knowledge of these (mostly) friendly SuperCoupe owners is just incredible in so many areas. Their wisdom has saved me untold hours and dollars, some of it even on my SC.




DITTO................Thats why I only hinted at the possibilities of what could happen by "fogetting to repressurize"
[QUOTE=shadow357x2]Mine will run for about 3 seconds BUT if you drive it and manually have to repressurize it make sure you dont forgot to recharge it.
Just hope you dont need to make a quick stop after forgetting to repressurize it.... I just didnt want to start anything....

tattoo
07-11-2006, 06:21 PM
Jim,
I think i recall that being your name.You have really shot yourself in the foot here.I have found the people on this forum are fountian of knowlege and as a whole a good group of guys.Like i mentioned to you when i met you i have some problems that were worked out with the people of this forum.If you have any doubts here read this. http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79311

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79091

I'm not sure why you would come off like such an ~~~~ but good luck trying to get anyone to help you now.
And one thing is for sure i will be staying off 35/115 hwy for a while.


Good Luck.

91 5.0 sc
07-12-2006, 12:33 AM
all i can say is dont follow me to close unless u have money to fix my car after u ~~~ end me :D

LJGriggs
07-12-2006, 03:01 PM
Let's all lighten up a bit. It takes a lot more than a little crack about being on the "morality squad" to offend me at my age. (now being called the "leader" of anything is getting pretty close :D )

Anyway, 1badcoupe, if you need any technical documents on the Teves Mark II ABS, or have any other questions about these birds, don't hesitate to ask.

shadow357x2
07-12-2006, 03:46 PM
Very well put , Takes a good person to say what you did , thats one of the reasons I like this place. Alot of help here and for the most part (a few exceptions) everyone here is real decent people and willing to bend over backwards to help the other members.

S

jtgraphics
07-22-2006, 12:01 PM
May help maybe not:
Hard pedal Amber Anti Lock and Red Brake Light always on:
It was the #E7LY-8Z658-A relay
Brake pedel became rock hard car very hard to stop Amber Anti Lock and Red Brake Light always on and stay on all the time unless it starts to work for a few times the lights would turn off for a few secounds.
It is a brown relay w/ a black top that is near the passenger side firewall $30 part.

Below long post but may help you....

Basic Troubleshooting:

Most of the problems associated with this system seem to revolve around the electrical operation of the Hydraulic Pump Motor and the Accumulator. So lets describe what some of the common symptoms are and what you can do about it.

Hard pedal Amber Anti Lock and Red Brake Light always on.

The hard pedal is indication of no power assist which we now knows means the Accumulator is not pressurized or the hydraulic pump is not running to pressurize the system. You should also realize that you don’t have ANY rear brakes too. Run the Self Test and see the Amber Warning Light goes out in 4 seconds. Have an assistant stand by the open hood to listen for the Hydraulic Pump Motor to run when you start the car.
If the pump runs, most likely you have a bad Accumulator or the pump is not being supplied with fluid because sediment has plugged the low pressure hose leading from the reservoir. Check the hose is unplugged and if that doesn’t correct the problem replace the Accumulator. If this doesn’t fix your problem you are into a high buck Pump Assembly replacement. (You already replaced the Accumulator so don’t buy another one now). For reference you should be able to press on the brake pedal from 5-8 times without the Hydraulic Pump Motor running. If this is not that case you are due for an Accumulator soon.
If the pump does not run you now most likely have an external electrical problem although it is possible the pump motor is shot. Here is how to tell what is what. With the Ignition Switch off depress the brake pedal 20 times to ensure the system is fully depressurized. Turn the Ignition Switch to Run the pump should run. If not disconnect the 4 pin connector on the pump. Use a multi meter to measure the voltage on the pins of the harness connector. The two positive pins are on opposite side of the connector as are the negative pins. Measure from one positive to one negative pin. (See figure 3).You should measure more than `10V DC. If you don’t, potential problems include either the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay, The Pressure Switch or the wiring harness between them all.
The failure of the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay is a common occurrence.
The normal failure modes are the contacts welded themselves shut causing the Hydraulic Pump Motor to run continuous or the relay failing to close which prevents normal pump motor operation. To verify relay operation it would be possible to disconnect the harness connector to the Anti-Lock Pressure Switch and ground pin 4 of the connector to ground.(See Figure 5) This will complete the circuit for the coil of the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay and should cause the pump to turn on. If the pump does not run most likely the relay is bad and must be replaced. If the motor does run the Pressure Switch may be the faulty part and should be replaced. The FORD Shop Manual states that if the Pressure Switch is replaced the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay should be replaced as well.

Anti-Lock Warning Light and Red Brake Light come on after brakes applied.

Most likely this is indication of a weak or bad Accumulator. If you have this symptom it is important to fix it as soon as you can because you are cycling the Hydraulic Pump Motor unnecessarily which will cause this high buck part to fail sooner than it needs to.

Red Brake Light comes on when accelerating or braking or going around a corner hard.

Probably your brake fluid level is a tad low. Angles and dangles on the car are causing it to pick up the level sensor. Make sure your system is pressurized when you check / add fluid since the Accumulator will "store" an appreciable amount of fluid. This will cause the level to go down as the system is pressurized at start up. Where did the fluid go you might ask? Assuming you have no leaks it probably is as a result of the brake pads in your calipers wearing. As they wear more fluid is required to keep the caliper pistons maintained in the proper position for braking action.

Thrust89SC
07-22-2006, 02:05 PM
I just now finished replacing my abs accumulator. Got the new one from Prior Reman for $100 (real nice lady took the order).

I pumped the brake pedal 25 times to de-pressurize the system. I removed the old one, but had to loosen the hood cowl trim to get clearance to get the old one out. Hand tighted the new one, and put everything back together.

I turned the key to ON, but didn't start it. The pump ran for less than a minute and stopped. I topped off the brake fluid, and started the car. The brake/abs lights where on for a few seconds, and everything is working normally. No lights when hitting the brakes on the test drive. Hope that helps.

Pablo94SC
07-31-2006, 06:14 PM
Similar situation on my 89 XR7... with a twist.

constant ABS/Brake lights on - hard pedal
* AC/heater blower motor not working - compressor not cycling on *

All were working fine last night when I parked the car.

I plan on doing the standard troubleshooting tonight (check fuses, jump the ABS pump relay, etc). I assume the compressor isn't cycling because the blower motor isn't functioning.

I find it hard to believe that both the blower motor and ABS taking a dump at the same time is just a coincidence. So the question - is the ABS pump relay on the same fuse/circuit as the AC/heater blower motor? Anyone else go through a similar issue?

CougarXR/7
08-01-2006, 11:56 AM
Well...........the brakes work fine, no hard pdeal at all. However, now and then the abs light comes on. If I hit the brakes, it goes out for a while then comes back on. Now and then it stays off for days. A loose connection? Bad relay? Wheel sensor bad?

Pablo94SC
08-01-2006, 01:01 PM
I think your issue relates to a wheel sensor. By any chance to you have new wheels or running different tires sizes front/rear? Another possiblilty is that you have run out on the bearing/hub and the pick up gear is wobbling, causing intermittant signal interuption.

In other news...

I checked the fuses and tested the pump wiring last night (no juice), so I got my local AZ to order me an MR120 relay. I didn't test the pressure switch (I don't have 10" quadruple jointed fingers), but no matter... I'd have to replace the relay if the pressure switch is bad.

Still no idea what happened to the A/C blower, but as to why the relay fails... perhaps it has something to do with the proximity of the evaporator? Just a random thought.

XxSlowpokexX
08-01-2006, 01:11 PM
As for the flashing on and off ABS light...Its common with the earlier cars and due to an internal pressure leak..It may have been the accumulator?...I dont recall..Doing a search on that one will work wonders. It has been discussed here in the past many times.

Paul did you check to see if your AC system still has pressure? If not that will explain at least why the compressor isnt cycling..As for why the fan motor isnt working.....>????

Hopefully the ABS unit didnt do what they do best..

Pablo94SC
08-01-2006, 10:45 PM
Nah, I'm almost positive it's the relay Damon.

As for the AC, I'm sure it's because the blower motor isn't working. I have vacuum to the controls, but the fan motor is dead. I think the relay blowing may have caused another relay to pop.

I still have a feeling the evaporator being close to the ABS relay has something to do with the failures. Condensation, heat, etc...

Pablo94SC
08-04-2006, 02:44 PM
It wasn't the relay. It was the ignition switch. One of the tabs on the back side broke and caused it to seperate... popped the ign/blower fuse when I went to unplug the harness.

$25 for parts and $10 for a set of tamper resisitent hex keys. Not bad at all.

SuperChicken4u
08-28-2006, 07:46 PM
I dont know where to turn. I really dont want to go to the dealer because I dont have the funds. Ill start this out by saying that, this site is a really good troubleshooting tool. Ive encountered a problem with my brakes that i dont know what to do about. Here goes, A couple of weeks ago my brake lights (on the dash) started briefly flashing when i had to slam on the brakes. Then it got worse over time and eventually one day the brakes quit working. The symptoms of a faulty accumulator (firm petal and both lights solid) made me get on here and start trying to figure it out. So I went to the dealer and ordered it (180$). I bummed a ride to work for a week until I got paid. Finnally it came And Installed it and took it around the block. It seemed to solve the problem. I went to work this morning all was still well. When I started it up to go to the house this afternoon the damn lights were on !!! So I cycled the switch until I could hear the pump come on. On my way home the first time I used the brakes the lights came back on and as merged over to the right off the highway I noticed the blinkers didn't work. I got in the emergency lane pushed on the petal and the petal poped and I noticed the blinkers came on and so did the firm ride light the brake lights went off and the petal softend . SOME1 PLEASE HELP ME OUT or lead me in the right direction.

92 superchicken
automatic
15,000 miles ago I replaced the pressure switch and relay both from ford.


Thanks,
Chris from Chattanooga TN

LJGriggs
08-28-2006, 10:17 PM
Turn the ignition key to the on position and listen for the hydraulic pump. If you don't hear it pressurizing the system, jiggle the key in the ignition until the pump kicks on. If you have to jiggle the key to get the pump started, or if jiggling the key will cause the pump to shut off, you need a new ignition switch. All power runs through the headlight switch, the multifunction (turn signal) switch, and the ignition switch.

SuperChicken4u
08-28-2006, 11:07 PM
I just went out there and wiggeled the switch and what do ya know thats all it was. You don't know how big of a weight that was liffted off my shoulders.
Do you by chance know how much one costs?

Thank you so much man. Im so greatful i Could almost send u a nude photo.
ha just kidding. Have a great day


Chris

LJGriggs
08-29-2006, 09:55 AM
The actual ignition switch is a rectangular box with a large harness connector located on the steering column under the cover. It shouldn't cost more than $10 - $15. If you need to replace the key tumbler, that is around $20 - $25 depending on where you go... I would start with the switch unless you notice that the key tumbler is worn out. If the "ears" on each side of the key slot have come loose from the mechanism, it is time to replace it.

BTW, stay away from the parts counter at the dealership unless you have recently won the PowerBall lottery and just like spending twice as much as you need to... (You can get a new accumulator for around $100 from Prior Remanufacturing)

Now, about this photo offer... I guess that would depend on who it is a picture of... ;)