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View Full Version : "one wheel peel" problems PLEASE HELP! (alittle long)



Bacondoggy
07-11-2006, 12:41 PM
Ok, whenever the car runs, I am getting all the power just to the drivers left rear side. I know that that is the "drive" side, but I mean on a FLAT surface, only one wheel would spin (you can tell by the burnout mark) and it is almost IMPOSSIBLE to drive in the rain. I had an 89, so I know how the rear wheels act in the rain (yes they can spin very easy, but its both wheels, and you can do 180's very easy). With this car, the rear drivers wheel only spins, so I just get wheel hop and chatter and it does not steer right.

Now there were 3.55 gears in, so I just changed out to my 89 stock rear gears (it is a 5-speed). These worked fine in my 89, and I mainly did it because I thought there was something wrong in the differential or the gears were installed wrong, and to get better gas mileage, but its STILL doing the same thing!!!I (obviously) used new differential juice, and if it required it, the reducer (I can't remember if that needed any or not).

What else could be causing this car to not have the other wheel engage prpoerly???

lilredstang
07-11-2006, 12:56 PM
well if you are sure you have a trac-lok, then the clutch plates inside it are most likely worn. you should be able to use the mustang 8.8 rebuild kit. it will have all the clutch and friction discs that you should need to get her spinning both tires again.

68COUGAR
07-11-2006, 01:57 PM
Depending on how you drive the car, you may also want to investigate the alt. stacking method for the friction/divider plates in the Trac Loc. The alt. stacking method will make a tighter Trac Loc.

The Trac Loc that Ford put in these cars is a Med. Duty unit. Some people have good luck with them, others don't. I bought my car new (special order), and the original Trac Loc was gone at 30K mi. By "gone" I mean that there were NO friction or seperator plates left at all. They had been ground up by the gears, into a magnetic sludge! Then Ford of Germany put in an identical med. duty Trac Loc. That one lasted 30K mi. also. Now I have a (regular) Auburn Cone, which I would NOT recommend for any SC, even a stock SC. The regular Auburn Cone slips about 1.5 revolutions before grabbing.

68COUGAR

Dirtyd0g
07-12-2006, 08:39 AM
I see quite a few problems with broken springs in the traction lock units. If the spring breaks it will have no tension.
Alan

The_Ghost
07-12-2006, 10:10 AM
My thunderbird tends to be very slide-happy. It also wastes both tires quite happily.

Is it supposed to be slidey? (really, really slidey with h-rated winstons on there, but much more controllable with 245/40ZR18s on it)

68COUGAR
07-12-2006, 12:57 PM
Is it supposed to be slidey? (really, really slidey with h-rated winstons on there, but much more controllable with 245/40ZR18s on it)
No, it's not "suppose" to be slidey. However your H rated tires are probably a LOT harder rubber than the OEM Goodyear Gatorbacks. Cheap, Hard tires have a lot to do with it. If they don't grip, they slip!!!

Also the rear sway bar on these cars is WAY TO SMALL!!!! My OEM rear sway bar would let the a$$ of the car hang out to 45 degrees, which would load up the sway bar. When the sway bar unloaded, it would throw the a$$ of the car 90 degrees the other way. Extremely dangerous, even for an experienced driver!!! After I installed the 1 3/8" sway bars, the a$$ end will step out a little bit, then fall right back to straight ahead. No more wild burnouts that take up BOTH lanes!!!!!

68COUGAR

68COUGAR
07-12-2006, 01:25 PM
I see quite a few problems with broken springs in the traction lock units. Alan
Have you personally tried the F150 S-spring? Some say it works, others say it doesn't fit.

68COUGAR

Bacondoggy
07-12-2006, 09:42 PM
Where is the best place to get a rebuild kit for the 8.8 rears for our cars? Is there any info anywhere on how to do the "alt. stacking" method? I will be changing out my exhaust soon (anone who has items in exhaust for sale let me know!), and I figure I should do the rear end at the same time. I may consider putting a 92+ style tank in as well... what is an average price for one of these? Thanks!
Mark

442guy
07-12-2006, 10:20 PM
Have you personally tried the F150 S-spring? Some say it works, others say it doesn't fit.

68COUGAR
it works, you have to scrunch it.
SCRUNCH=technical SC term

racecougar
07-12-2006, 11:16 PM
Have you personally tried the F150 S-spring? Some say it works, others say it doesn't fit.

68COUGAR

I have one in the rear of my XR7. I'd say it works. ;)

-Rod

Dirtyd0g
07-12-2006, 11:34 PM
F-150 springs do not fit in all carriers. It didn't fit in mine I used a fox body mustang carrier.
Alan

The_Ghost
07-13-2006, 02:48 AM
No, it's not "suppose" to be slidey.....no more wild burnouts that take up BOTH lanes!!!!!

68COUGAR
amen to that, a couple times i've gassed it too early at the end of a left turn and gotten the car sideways down the boulevard completely unintentionally :o

At the same time, I think if I take the car to drift day in august, the car will hand the competition its @$$ so far as slide-control goes.

I take it then, that my LSD is probably working properly.

68COUGAR
07-13-2006, 03:15 AM
it works, you have to scrunch it.
SCRUNCH=technical SC term
LOL..................Got It!!!!!!! Have added "SCRUNCH" to my list of SC Technical terms. Does that make the F150 S-spring, a SCrunchIE?

68COUGAR

Bacondoggy
07-13-2006, 03:34 PM
Ok, I just bought kit M-4700-B for $43 - I guess thats a decent price? Should I get anything else (like the "s" clips)? My 3.55 gears are already apart so I will just rebuild them - or should I take it and the rebuild kit to someone? I have rebuily and engine, and trans. for these cars before, so I am no dummy when it comes to the cars, but I was told that if the gears arent installed just right, that they can be noisy, etc. The gears are already installed in the differential, I just never rebuilt one so I dont know how easy/hard it is... Oh, and the F-150 "S" springs - what year should I use? Does this just keep the gears tighter?

Bacondoggy
07-14-2006, 11:00 PM
bump - should I get an "s" spring? whats the difference between ours (#4124) and an F150 s spring? What is their #?

68COUGAR
07-15-2006, 09:50 PM
I just bought kit M-4700-B for $43..... Should I get anything else (like the S-spring)? My 3.55 gears are already apart so I will just rebuild them - or should I take it and the rebuild kit to someone? I was told that if the gears arent installed just right, that they can be noisy, etc. The gears are already installed in the differential.....F-150 "S" springs - what year should I use? Does this just keep the gears tighter?
If you want to use the alt. stacking method, you will need to buy another rebuild kit (2 rebuild kits total).

I believe that the F150 S-spring puts more bias pressure on the clutch packs. More Bias Pressure = Tighter Trac Loc.

http://www.geocities.com/mark_strand/TracLocCutAway.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/mark_strand/TracLocExploded.jpg

I would never install my own differential & gears. Better to take it to a specialist who knows 8.8's. That way you also get a guarantee on the WORK. It ain't just a matter of nuts & bolts. You have to get the side to side shims correct. Get the pattern (pinion print) correct, AND crush the crush-sleeve just enough, but not to much!!!!! If you get the pattern set wrong, you'll awaken the Howlin' Beast!!!.

68COUGAR

Dirtyd0g
07-15-2006, 10:55 PM
Some of the aftermarket kits include 4 frictions, The ford racing ones do not.

You know rearends look really easy but end up being very very time cosuming even for a guy who has built dozens of them some can just take forever to nail where you want them. The tools to build the right can be rediculous as well. Having a pinion depth gauge is worth the high cost because it can save you in some cases up to 6 hours building an 8.8 from scratch. Don't mess with the cheapo ones the rotunda is the only pinion depth gauge worth having. Even after you have pinion depth correct you need a inch lb needle or gauge style style torque wrench to set the crush sleeve and a tool to hold the yoke while you crush it. No to mention a 3 foot breaker bar and a heavy duty ratchet with a 3 foot pipe on it. Even after that having a buddy help sure makes life easier because the pumpkins like to jump all over the place when you have 2 3foot pipes working against each other crushing the sleeve. Don't EVER touch the sleeve nut with an impact unless you are taking it off to throw it away. The comes the journey of getting backlash correct with the carrier shims. That usually takes 4 or 5 tries to get exactly right unless you get lucky. The shims themself are expensive at almost $20 each from the dealer. I suggest using those cheapo stackem together shims to get it right then measure those and find or buy the correct one for it.
Alan

68COUGAR
07-15-2006, 11:42 PM
Some of the aftermarket kits include 4 frictions, The ford racing ones do not. The shims themself are expensive at almost $20 each from the dealer. Alan
These Shims?

http://www.geocities.com/mark_strand/TracLocShimDiamentions.jpg

Can you set me straight on Seperators & Frictions? Which ones Spline to the output shaft, & Which ones lock into the Carrier? I like to use correct terminology.

68COUGAR

Dirtyd0g
07-16-2006, 08:15 AM
The frictions lock to the carrier through the little tabs you can barely see through the outside of the carrier. The steels lock to the sidegear with splines. Generally any kit you will buy will include both.
Yes those are the correct shims, expensive little buggers.
Alan

Bacondoggy
07-18-2006, 05:10 PM
Tighter track-lok would give less slipage and have power to both wheels more often, correct? What year F-150 spring could I get (anyone have a part #)? I hear it doesn't fit all carriers - I have an 8.8 rear with 3.55 gears - how would I tell if it would work? I would hate to take it to someone to rebuild, tell him to use the "S" spring, and have him spend hours trying to get it in, only to tell me it won't fit.

Also, the "alt. stacking method" - does this make the track lok tighter as well? would the alt stacking along with the "s" spring be overkill? Are there any advantages/disadvantages of using the alt staking and the "S" spring? All I know is that the "S" spring makes the trak-lok tighter. I don't want to be taking the rear out of here anymore lol this is the last time haha... Any input would be appriciated! thanks!

89SCK@t
07-19-2006, 12:32 AM
I had to rebuild a trac-lok for an 02 mustang ( a poorly maintained one at that) because one of my guys over tightened the pinion seal...he used an impact. He killed the inner/outer pinion bearings and races.

I didnt have the tools to properly rebuild it, but I got it. I used a die-grinder and air chisel to take the pinion bearing off, then used a 4lb hammer and 2 1/4 junk exhaust pipe to "press" the bearing on the pinion. I did use a torque wrench and a 4 foot prybar to put the pinion nut on, but it still howled.

I was about to send it out to a diff shop to get properly rebuilt and I just decided to try my luck. I hit the pinion nut with 4, 2-second bursts at full torque, with my impact, and told the manager to drive it again. No howling.

There is no way in hell I would rebuild my own rear-end like that, but I had to save the company 600 bucks...too bad I will never see a dime in my pocket, or a thank you....anywho...

Long story short, I want to say those S-clips are a pain in the butt to R&R! I think Ford used them to fix the problem the Mustangs where having with the Axles moving in and out too much. The axles then pressed on the rotors causing a squealing sound from the hardware on the caliper brackets. I guess it could serve a dual purpose though. The only reason I say that is because in AllData for an 02 GT Mustang they do not show an S-clip.

Dirtyd0g
07-19-2006, 03:09 AM
Tightening the pinion nut is not crushig the sleeve. I use an old nut to crush the sleeve and then torque the new nut down when finished. To correctly crush the sleeve the carrier cannot be installed. You have to measure the preload on the pinion bearing by itself. On the f-150 S spring I do not have the part number but it fits in about 75% of housings I see. It seems the 80's mustang housings are the one it does not fit. There is no trying to get it in there if it doesn't fit because it will be obvious that it will not fit. It doesn't refuse to fit on compression it's the size of the window in the carrier.
Alan

Bacondoggy
07-19-2006, 11:11 AM
so does the alt stacking method do the same thing as an f-150 s spring? Does anyone know what years you can get the s spring out of the f-150's? Would using the alt. stacking method let the clutches last longer? I would like this rebuilt in whatever way it will last the longest. if this means getting another clutch kit and an s spring - so be it! haha

Dirtyd0g
07-19-2006, 11:22 AM
You can use the alternate stacking method and the f-150 spring they don't exactly do the same thing. The spring puts more tension on the clutches. The stacking method adds more clutch.
Alan

Bacondoggy
07-26-2006, 04:59 PM
I took it to a guy around here he is putting the clutches in for $150. He told me if I wanted to switch out the S spring with an F-150, to give it to him and he'll throw it in no problem. Does anyone know what year f-150 I can get the S spring off of? I want to get one, but I dont know wich ones are compatible.... Thanks!

Bacondoggy
07-30-2006, 08:23 PM
bump

just need to know what model F150 s spring I need...

Dirtyd0g
08-02-2006, 02:18 AM
I bought one today from a 90 f-150. It worked great. It's late or I'd give you the part number,but I don't feel like going back to the garage right now.
Alan

Dirtyd0g
08-02-2006, 04:36 PM
part number = F3TZ-4214-A

ricardoa1
11-26-2007, 04:49 AM
Subscribing

Young-SC-Owner
11-27-2007, 06:56 PM
only a year and a quarter too late!!!:rolleyes:

ricardoa1
11-27-2007, 07:21 PM
Took me an hour to find the part #s so I just want to subscribe so I dont forget.
Its good info anyways I am sure some newbies will find it useful. ;)

Capt.Trunks
12-01-2007, 12:20 AM
Took me an hour to find the part #s so I just want to subscribe so I dont forget.
Its good info anyways I am sure some newbies will find it useful. ;)

Come on i a one wheel fire starting burn out is Funny (DEE DEE DEE)