View Full Version : new motor..what should I replace?

07-13-2006, 05:04 PM
Lets see I just bought a '94sc 5spd about 3 months ago and now has no compression in one cylinder and needs a ring job :(. So my question is about a new long block.What things should I replace on the car while the motor is out and what should I buy new/upgrade(be resonable now fellas) on the motor?

07-13-2006, 05:22 PM
How many miles are you at?

I have luckily never pulled my engine, but if the drive train is the same as my 90 SC, I would recommend inspecting your clutch and replacing it if it is nearing the end of it's life, because pulling the tranny is a b!#ch.

07-13-2006, 07:18 PM
yeah planned on doin a clutch,clutch ms, and slave. its got about 120,xxxmi and I'm pretty sure an original clutch.

07-13-2006, 07:52 PM
Engine/tranny mounts.
k im out of ideas....

07-13-2006, 08:05 PM
got motor mounts, radiator was done. thinkin bout headers while the motor is out. what things should I swap from the old motor and what should I get new?

07-13-2006, 08:06 PM
The front strut rod bushings are real easy to replace with the engine out.

07-14-2006, 02:04 PM
got motor mounts, radiator was done. thinkin bout headers while the motor is out. what things should I swap from the old motor and what should I get new?
Save your money on the header idea. Headers give no benefit on near stock engine on the street. You're much better off with ported stock manifolds. Headers are for the high horsepower guys and provide a bit more power at higher rpm. John

07-14-2006, 02:45 PM
so stock ported exhaust manifolds from texastbirds will be good huh?

07-14-2006, 02:46 PM
You might consider a BHJ Balancer as well. If you've got the money, perhaps some mods as well - heads? cam? upgrade injectors?

It really depends on your budge as well.


07-14-2006, 04:00 PM
so stock ported exhaust manifolds from texastbirds will be good huh?
texas thunderbirds does a nice porting job on the manifolds. Same type of job can be done anywhere though. You can take the collector out to a little over 2".

07-19-2006, 04:38 AM
I just did a long block replacement 1200 miles ago on a '91 5-speed.

Goes without saying (but easily over-looked) :
1. any and all of the coolant/heater hoses, oil cooler hose, bypass hose (clamps too!)
2. both crank and cam sensor
3. clutch(recommend a SPEC Stage 2)/slave cylinder/friction modifier for trans
4. oil pump,
5. Spark plugs (recommended Autolite Double Platinum)
6. Spark wires (Autolite part]#86136 (Schucks/Kragen) replacement recommended)) my verdict is still out on the Livewire set I had installed.
7. Transmission mount (get a solid one)
8. New Harmonic Balancer (BHJ is recommended) with accompanied long bolt and washer
9. Zero balanced aluminum crank pulley
10. O2 Sensors
11. Fuel filter
12. Cam synchro assembly gasket (not inluded in any gasket set that I know of)
13. Oil Cooler gasket (same as above)
14. Timing Cover Gasket (also must be purchased seperately)
15. Solid Motor mounts
16. Oil pressure sending unit ( not the same as switch in oil pan : switch is obsoleted part from Ford, but can be purchased with pan if your shop has the right connections).
17. Temperature sending unit (plug by thermostat housing)
18. ECT (Electronic Coolant Temperature sending unit (not to be confused with the unit above).
19. Exhaust components (downtubes, cats, resonator, mufflers)
20 . Oil filter and oil for engine "break-in". ; I suggest a Fram or Napa Gold.
21. PVC Valves
22. Belts (all 3)

Opinions vary on the duration of time/mileage the 'break-in' procedure involves. Use your own judement. However, I am trying a method that uses 10-40w non-synthetic oil and a hard use philosophy for this 1st step and am having great results; change out oil and filter at 500 miles after pounding the crap:D out of the engine. Replaced with Slick-50 and another 4 quarts of NS 1040w oil and a good filter (K&N). Pulling like a raped ape, and getting looks as I fly by...if they only knew I was in 5th gear...:cool:

Of course I'm still using the Toyo Proxes Z4 on all 4 corners and they stick like glue after 5k miles...no wheel hop, but one of them has developed a leak (even after being 'fixed').

You can save some hassle and time if you wire in an afternarket oil pressure (electronic recommended) and temperature guage from an aftermarket source such as AutoMeter. Just about any aftermarket unit worth the cost
nowadays will provide a more accurate reading of the source than factory of 10-15 years ago. A piece of mind if you worry about such things. This means that one can also bypass the replacement of all listed : Oil Sending Pressure Sending Unit, Oil Level Switch, and the Temperature Sending Unit (associated with guage connection from coolant at the thermostat housing). There are articles abound on how to do this as well as 'trick' the computer into seeing the stock sensors as operating properley.

Disclaiimer : I am by no means a professional mechanic or racer. But, I've had my fair share of bulding rods and out-racing those that might deem me "illegal for road use", and am happy with what I have.