I just did a long block replacement 1200 miles ago on a '91 5-speed.
Goes without saying (but easily over-looked) :
1. any and all of the coolant/heater hoses, oil cooler hose, bypass hose (clamps too!)
2. both crank and cam sensor
3. clutch(recommend a SPEC Stage 2)/slave cylinder/friction modifier for trans
4. oil pump,
5. Spark plugs (recommended
Autolite Double Platinum)
6. Spark wires (Autolite part
]#86136 (Schucks/Kragen) replacement recommended)) my verdict is still out on the Livewire set I had installed.
7. Transmission mount (get a
solid one)
8. New Harmonic Balancer (
BHJ is recommended) with accompanied long bolt and washer
9. Zero balanced aluminum crank pulley
10. O2 Sensors
11. Fuel filter
12. Cam synchro assembly gasket (not inluded in any
gasket set that I know of)
13. Oil Cooler gasket (same as above)
14. Timing Cover Gasket (also must be purchased seperately)
15.
Solid Motor mounts
16. Oil pressure sending unit ( not the same as switch in oil pan : switch is obsoleted part from Ford, but can be purchased with pan if your shop has the right connections).
17. Temperature sending unit (plug by thermostat housing)
18. ECT (Electronic Coolant Temperature sending unit (not to be confused with the unit above).
19. Exhaust components (downtubes, cats, resonator, mufflers)
20 . Oil filter and oil for engine "break-in". ; I suggest a Fram or
Napa Gold.
21. PVC Valves
22. Belts (all 3)
Opinions vary on the duration of time/mileage the 'break-in' procedure involves. Use your own judement. However, I am trying a method that uses 10-40w non-synthetic oil and a hard use philosophy for this 1st step and am having great results; change out oil and filter at 500 miles after pounding the crap
out of the engine. Replaced with Slick-50 and another 4 quarts of NS 1040w oil and a good filter (
K&N). Pulling like a raped ape, and getting looks as I fly by...if they only knew I was in 5th gear...
Of course I'm still using the Toyo Proxes Z4 on all 4 corners and they stick like glue after 5k miles...no wheel hop, but one of them has developed a leak (even after being 'fixed').
You can save some hassle and time if you wire in an afternarket oil pressure (electronic recommended) and temperature guage from an aftermarket source such as AutoMeter. Just about any aftermarket unit worth the cost
nowadays will provide a more accurate reading of the source than factory of 10-15 years ago. A piece of mind if you worry about such things. This means that one can also bypass the replacement of all listed : Oil Sending Pressure Sending Unit, Oil Level Switch, and the Temperature Sending Unit (associated with guage connection from coolant at the thermostat housing). There are articles abound on how to do this as well as 'trick' the computer into seeing the stock sensors as operating properley.
Disclaiimer :
I am by no means a professional mechanic or racer. But, I've had my fair share of bulding rods and out-racing those that might deem me "illegal for road use", and am happy with what I have.