1989 Sc Master Cylinder

USCFOOTBALL

Registered User
HEY HOMMIES I HAVE A 1989 SC WITH ANTI LOCK BRAKES. DISC BRAKES ON ALL FOUR WHEELS. 3.8L SUPER CHARGE ENGINE. SOMETIMES WHEN I STEP ON THE BRAKES THE ANTI LOCK AMBER LIGHT COMES ON ON A NONE PANIC STOP AND ONCE IN AWHILE THE RED BRAKE LIGHT COMES ON WITH IT. I THINK ITS THE MASTER CYLINDER GOING OUT. I PRICED ONE FROM THE DEALER AND THEY TOLD ME $2,200.00 FOR A MASTER CYLINDER WOW. IS THERE A SEAL KIT I CAN USE INSTEAD? AND HOW HARD IS IT TO REMOVE AND REPLACE? AND DO I NEED SPECIAL EQUIPMENT TO BLEED THE BRAKES? OR IS THERE SOME WERE I CAN BUY M/C UNIT CHEAPER.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND ANSWERS
I DO NOT WANT TO PARK MY BIRD BUT TO PAY OVER 2K FOR A M/C IS TO MUCH FOR ME
SIGNED FORD FOREVER....
USCFOOTBALL:cool:
 
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Welcome to the world of the Teves ll ABS brake system. Do a search on here for problems with this system and you will find an abundance of info. For now, it sounds like the accumulator ball is not holding enough reserve pressure. Take a warning, if you continue to ignore the yellow and red lights there will come a time sooner or later when you will try to brake and all you will have is a hard pedal and you won't stop, and then you won't need to worry about it anymore because you may not have a car left. You can get the brake accumulators from Priorreman.com for around $100. John
 
Not difficult to replace...

The hardest part is getting to the accumulator because of all the stuff around it. Other than that, it's basically just unscrew it and put the new one in. There is one very important proceedure that you must do before you remove the old one:
The Teves Mark II has a normal system operating pressure of about 2200+ psi, so you must release the pressure before you remove the accumulator. To do this, pump the brake pedal (with the KEY OFF) until the pedal is rock hard. About 25 times should do it. Once the pedal is hard, the system is safe to work on. The stock accumulator has a hex-key fitting to help with removal, the new units from Prior Remanufacturing do not but you don't need to screw it in tight when reinstalling. Hand tight like an oil filter is good enough. Make sure you use a new O-Ring on the fitting (Prior units come with it already installed) and lube the threads with clean brake fluid. You won't need to bleed the brakes after replacing the accumulator, but you will want to check the fluid level in the reservoir after you charge the system. The new accumulator will suck up a good bit of fluid (you should probably put the old accumulator in a coffee can because it will drain fluid for days). The first time you charge the new accumulator, the pump will run for a minute or two, after that it should only take a few seconds...

www.priorreman.com
 
M/c Teves Ii

Thanks That Helps A Lot. Have You Heard Of Taking That Out Of There And Putting A Conventional Brake System In. Vacuum Booster And A M/c From A 93 Crown Vic. What You Think..... I Read This Here Were A Member Did That He No More Abs But He Does Have Brakes Still.... Would Like More Info On This Change Over Thanks Ford For Ever......... John.:d
 
Im doing a conventional brake swap myself. The worst conventional brake system will outperform a broken SC ABS any day, and cost much less to keep in service. Ordered a 93 CV master cylinder with the splitter block yesterday. It came with resevoir, and the required splitter block in guaranteed good condition for 35 bucks.......A good used booster should run you about 30 bucks or less. There is a very large thread here about the swap that has all the info you need. http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59901
 
thanks for the help

I installed a new acumalator today from prior reman and all is good what a change in the brakes it made. if that wouldnt have worked i would have done the swap but for now it works great. and thanks to all you that help me in my repair of my 89 SC thanks hommies ......
FORD FOR EVER !!!
 
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