How would a SC hold up in a demolition derby?

I went to the county fair tonight and watched The Outlaw demolition derby go at it and while I was sitting there watching all the carnage take place I couldn't help but wonder how a SC would fare in a demo derby. It really intrigued me into building a demo derby car for next year but I couldn't quite put my thumb down to what car to use. Thats when I began to think about how a rusted out SC would hold up against the competition. What do you guys think?

Shane

It wouldn't last to long. There would be to many of us there that would rape you of all the good body parts that were left and you would have nothing left to protect you.

But I do think a Thunderbird LX (hint hint) or a Oldsmobile Delta 88 would work just dandy!

honey, i told you what i think...

but i'm gonna tell you again. lol! i said that they would prolly do good...but even you said, **maybe an LX?** i figured, yea, that would be better, cuz then if u used an SC, that'd be *one less in the world* even if it was a junker to begin with, it'll just be even worse i wonder what kind of other opinions you'll be getting on here either way you go, i'll still love you just as much! i do think you should get that race car of yours built first, that way you can get it done, since you cant this year but then again, it's only me telling you that. whatever your heart desires babe, that's what you should go for

I think an LX Tbird would handle fairly well. You have enough trunk space to do a lot of damage...just beef it up a little. The front end would be a problem. the damned rad would get punctured quick...move the rad as far back at you can with an electic pusher fan and you should be good.

Here are the 2006 Large car rules:

1. Each driver is required to fill out an entry form, be at least 18 years of age, and supply their own car. Only one entry per person, per event. No refund after 72 hours prior to show.
2. Any front engine, 2WD, hard top car or station wagon is allowed, except 66 or older Imperials.
3. All glass, including headlights, taillights, mirrors, etc., must be removed.
4. All dirt and loose pieces must be swept clean of car. No work to be done at track.
5. Maximum 5 gallons of fuel. No original fuel tanks. Must use D.O.T. or Coastguard approved container. Fuel tank must be securely fastened, leak free and covered behind driver.
6. Driver’s door reinforcements not to extend more than 6” past the driver’s door. No driver door hitting.
7. All chrome and ornaments must be removed from outside of car. Carpet and headliner must be removed.
8. A maximum of 3 batteries and 1 transmission cooler may be moved to any reasonable position in the car as long as they are securely fastened to the car by #9 wire, metal straps, etc., and have a suitable shield.
9. Headers must extend straight up. If headers are not used, you must have a 6” hole above the carburetor.
10. Metal to patch holes must be no heavier than original. No patching holes caused by removing lights.
11. Engine mounts may be chained, wired or welded. Radiator must remain in original position.
12. Intoxicating substances or the use of such are prohibited prior to or during the event.
13. Safety belts, approved helmet, and eye protection are required and must be worn.
14. Drivers have one-minute to make aggressive contact. Drivers sandbagging will be disqualified.
15. Derby officials may inspect any car at any time. Officials reserve the right to impose additional rules.
16. Do not leave car unless officials tell you to do so or until the last car has stopped.
17. Tubes, water and tires inside of tires and welded or locked rear ends are permitted.
18. Car must set reasonably level; backend of car may not be flattened.
19. Doors must be fastened shut by wire, chain or welded. Tailgates and trunk lids may be welded.
20. Straps on doors not to exceed 1/8-inch thickness and 3 inches in width.
21. A steel plate not to exceed ¼" x 22" x 6" is permitted to be welded on the frame directly above the rear axle on coil spring cars only.
22. Rear shackles may be moved to accommodate longer or shorter springs. Leaf springs may be added to the rear of a coil spring car. Maximum of 12 leaf springs per side, 4 clamps per side, and only one mainspring per side. Springs not to exceed 5/16 inch in thickness, 2 ½ inches in width, 60 inches in length. Clamps not to exceed ¼ inch in thickness and 1 ½ inches in width. Leaf springs may not extend more than 30 inches from center of rear axle to center of front eye hole. No spring to be longer than mainspring.
23. Hoods may be wired and/or bolted, maximum of 4 bolts not to exceed 1 inch in diameter by 6 inches in length, maximum of 4 double strand wires from front of hood to bumper. Hood hinges must not be removed and must be operable. Springs should be removed from hinges.
24. Six double strand twisted wires may be used between roof and cowl, providing at least a 30” hole in the center to escape fire. No other windows may be wired.
25. Station wagon rear floor doors must not be fastened and must be operable or completely removed.
26. Maximum of 22” to bottom of the bumpers. Bumpers must remain in stock position.
27. The only welds permitted on the frame are welding the bumpers to the frame using only stock brackets, welding the front suspension to the frame to raise the front of the car, welding a plate on rear frame arch on a coil spring car, and welds for the addition of brackets to add rear leaf springs to car. Maximum bracket size is 4” and bracket may not extend across top of frame.
28. Body may be bolted directly to top side of frame. No extra bolts in body or frame. Body bolt washers (3” maximum) not permitted between body and frame.
29. Any or all body seams may be welded. No steel, other than ¼ inch bead of weld, on the seams.
30. Inside of driver’s door must be covered by original upholstery, foam rubber or similar safe covering.
31. A four-sided steel structure may be used for driver protection running directly behind seat, across front passenger door, dash area and driver’s door. Must be securely fastened inside car.
32. The two-hand hole covers on 1971-1976 GM leaf spring wagons (located on the underneath side of the tailgate compartment and fastened with four screws each) must be removed.

Shane

quick35th said:

Here are the 2006 Large car rules:

1. Each driver is required to fill out an entry form, be at least 18 years of age, and supply their own car. Only one entry per person, per event. No refund after 72 hours prior to show.
2. Any front engine, 2WD, hard top car or station wagon is allowed, except 66 or older Imperials.
13. Safety belts, approved helmet, and eye protection are required and must be worn.
14. Drivers have one-minute to make aggressive contact. Drivers sandbagging will be disqualified.
15. Derby officials may inspect any car at any time. Officials reserve the right to impose additional rules.
16. Do not leave car unless officials tell you to do so or until the last car has stopped.
17. Tubes, water and tires inside of tires and welded or locked rear ends are permitted.
18. Car must set reasonably level; backend of car may not be flattened.
19. Doors must be fastened shut by wire, chain or welded. Tailgates and trunk lids may be welded.
27. The only welds permitted on the frame are welding the bumpers to the frame using only stock brackets, welding the front suspension to the frame to raise the front of the car, welding a plate on rear frame arch on a coil spring car, and welds for the addition of brackets to add rear leaf springs to car. Maximum bracket size is 4” and bracket may not extend across top of frame.
28. Body may be bolted directly to top side of frame. No extra bolts in body or frame. Body bolt washers (3” maximum) not permitted between body and frame.
29. Any or all body seams may be welded. No steel, other than ¼ inch bead of weld, on the seams.30. Inside of driver’s door must be covered by original upholstery, foam rubber or similar safe covering.
31. A four-sided steel structure may be used for driver protection running directly behind seat, across front passenger door, dash area and driver’s door. Must be securely fastened inside car.
32. The two-hand hole covers on 1971-1976 GM leaf spring wagons (located on the underneath side of the tailgate compartment and fastened with four screws each) must be removed.

Shane

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I like these rules. Though I think the IRS wouldn't fair well in a MN12. One mild hit from the side and your done. Honestly, in my experience the smaller lighter fwd economy cars do better. When they get hit they just bounce off the larger cars with minimal damage. Best one I have ever seen entered was a turbo dodge omni. We welded the wastegate shut and just beat on that car for the hot lap race, and when it came time for the Demo Derby the car was awesome. We also used bobcat tires on it.

You Would Have To Do Something About The Fuel Pump Shut Off Switch. Without Modifying It, The Car Would Shut Off At The First Impact And Leave You A Lame Duck!!

quick35th said:

except 66 or older Imperials.

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Thats BS! Thats like telling a 1000lbs Sumo Wrestler that he's not aloud to play!

Many of my friends derby, and from my experience, a T-Bird would never ever hold up. I wouldn't even try it. You are in for a punishment. Full-size classes are heavy hitters, and MANY of the cars that enter them do not follow the rules. But if you have a junker LX and you feel like getting beat up, you will probably last for 3 hits...good luck with that.

-Trey

P.S. If you really want to run a T-bird in a derby, look for somewhere that holds an 80's and newer class, you'll fair much better there. Still not good though.

So it sounds like a Tbird with a solid rear axle would be the better route to take. With that in mind I am thinking a fox bird with a 5.0L under the hood would be the ticket. I think I'd play dirty just a little bit and reinforce some strategic places on the car to aid its survival.

Shane

I think a 63 Imperial would be great but they have to discriminate against them!!!!!

Those things are a beast! They have more steal on them then a skyscraper!

quick35th said:

I went to the county fair tonight and watched The Outlaw demolition derby go at it and while I was sitting there watching all the carnage take place I couldn't help but wonder how a SC would fare in a demo derby. It really intrigued me into building a demo derby car for next year but I couldn't quite put my thumb down to what car to use. Thats when I began to think about how a rusted out SC would hold up against the competition. What do you guys think?

Shane

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no no no shane, you need not enter the snow plow in a demo derby...........

I seen a few T-birds in demo's before, They did ok no winners. It is tough to compete with the big old wagons.

I watched a fox bird in a demo here, it darn near folded in half under the rear window. It lasted quite a while though. I wouldnt think an MN12 would last very long at all really. I also watched a dodge Aries K car walk off with the competition in the mini class. We had one that couldnt get out of its own way, but I guess they are tough in the dirt ring.

Edit: I have a 78 caprice classic thats just waiting for its chance at this, and a 74 grand torino wagon that would rock at it.

The MN12 platform wouldnt hold up... considering its a uni-body. Most demo-derby cars use the ladder bar style frame.. which is whats on most full size trucks...

just come down to compton and buy a 70's el dorado like this one and you will be a winner... ha ha ha, this cars are as big as a yacht! i dont know how the hell someone keeps a yacht rolling through the streets! you know how much room there is in the engine bay? you can practically fit 2 engines in there. the trunk, may fit 4-5 bodies in it, 6 at the most...