anyone running a cry02 system?

Merlon

Registered User
I have seen this before, for the intake, the bulb, and thought it was kinda neat. well what about taking that idea and using it on the intercooler tubes in our cars? cools 35% so thats a significant gain over a fan. cheaper than a liquid to air intercooler.

http://www.extremev6racing.com/cry02.html

anyone running a setup like this?
 
I have a hard time believing that the Cry02 intake/bulb cooler setup would actually be of much benefit at all. Tests have shown that intake tubes made from different materials (steel, aluminum, plastic, PCV, etc.) showed nearly unnoticable differences in intake air charge temperatures. The air is just moving way too fast through the tube to pick up enough heat to make any difference.

So puting this Cry02 cooler bulb in the intake tube would almost certainly show the same results.... the air would be flowing over it in large enough volume and at high enough speed that any decrease in temps would be so small they would make no difference at all in terms of performance.

Now add to it the fact that this cooler bulb would create a restriction in the intake tube and it shouldn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that this rather expensive setup is not going to help but in all actuallity, it could HURT performance.

I think it would take a LOT more surface area for the air charge to come in contact with then this little bulb will provide in order to offer any cooling effect. But then you still need to eliminate the restriction to the air flow. Oh... wait.... that's what an efficient intercooler is for. ;)
 
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Tracy is right, the air is moving way to fast to make a difference. Its like wrapping the return tube, its not going to make that much of a difference.

Now if you supercooled the stock intercooler somehow with CO2 THEN I'd say you would see quite the difference, because it does slow the air down while its running through there. Just not sure how well the aluminum would hold up to such a drastic drop in temperature though. Also, shame there wasn't a way to recycle that CO2 back through and use a system to control the amount of cooling so the air charge going in would be at a constant temperature.

Frit
 
fturner said:
Tracy is right, the air is moving way to fast to make a difference. Its like wrapping the return tube, its not going to make that much of a difference.

Now if you supercooled the stock intercooler somehow with CO2 THEN I'd say you would see quite the difference, because it does slow the air down while its running through there. Just not sure how well the aluminum would hold up to such a drastic drop in temperature though. Also, shame there wasn't a way to recycle that CO2 back through and use a system to control the amount of cooling so the air charge going in would be at a constant temperature.

Frit
I'm sure there's many ways to adapt this to a race application if you wanted to go down a strip 4-5 times. Anything else would be somewhat useless.
 
seems about right,

this applicttion probaably wouldnt make a difference if the metal intake pipe v. plastic makes no difference.

as for spraying the intercooler down before a run, is probably the only reasonable use for it.

guess your just better off with a better intercooler, and some sort of alchohol injection kit. like snow, or whatever.
 
the co2 intercooler spray bar is actualy very popular in the import scene and i've seen turbo cars lose as many as 2 tenths.
 
Exactly.... spraying the CO2 on the intercooler to cool it down way below ambient temps will make a difference. In the intercooler there is a LOT more surface area for the air charge to pass over and the larger volume of the intercooler causes the air charge to slow down allowing more contact time with the larger surface area. Therefor a much better cooling effect is achieved.

But simply puting that little CO2 cooled egg in the intake tube just isn't going to have a measurable effect because of the air charge velocity (it's passing over the egg/bulb too fast), the lack of surface area of the cooled bulb and the restriction created.

NOW.... if you were to take a water to air intercooler and pump liquid CO2 through it instead of water... :eek: However, I think that just MIGHT be a bit more expensive than most people would want (not to mention the fact that you would need a MASSIVE CO2 tank just to get a couple 1/4 mile passes and the added weight would eat up most, if not all, of the gains.

In the end, a water to air intercooler with ice water is about the best you are going to get. You could add a CO2 spray bar for the track, but I suspect that alky injection would be just as effective.
 
Ii'd have to agree that i don't see much benefit with it...

besides...8 HP gain for how much is the kit??? i'd pay maybe $50 bucks for 8HP...but that's about it...and it would have to be a simple swap out of a part, not running lines and IC piping..

just my opinion.
 
Heck, an 8 or 10 RWHP difference can be seen on two consecutive dyno runs with absolutely NO CHANGES made to the car. So a claim of 8 HP gain would need to be backed up by more than just a single run before and a single run after.

I would be more interested in seeing what difference something like this makes in 1/4 mile ET and MPH. That would tell more than a single dyno pull.
 
Spraying Alky

Damon,
I have thought about some sort of spray setup with spraying Alcohol onto the intercooler, but was wondering if it would evaporate quick enough as not to drip on the track. It would have to be a very fine mist and pure alcohol so it would evaporate quick enough, anyone else have thoughts on this?

Smitty
 
Quik95SC said:
Damon,
I have thought about some sort of spray setup with spraying Alcohol onto the intercooler, but was wondering if it would evaporate quick enough as not to drip on the track. It would have to be a very fine mist and pure alcohol so it would evaporate quick enough, anyone else have thoughts on this?

Smitty

Like Damon said, I am not sure whether corrosion would be something to worry about when sprayin alcohol on the intercooler, but it surely SHOULD make a noticable difference in air charge temps.

As for it evaporating quick.... well, that is EXACTLY why you want to use alcohol. It evaporates very quickly and THAT is what causes the cooling. The evaporation of a liquid requires heat energy. As the liquid evaporates, the heat energy is consumed and the cooling effect is the result of that.

To keep it from dripping on the track, you simply need to "calibrate" it so to speak. By that, I mean, you would need to figure out through trial and testing, how much alcohol you can spray before it becomes too much and starts dripping. If the alcohol is dripping off the intercooler, then you are spraying it on faster/heavier than necessary. You only need to spray on what can be quickly evaporated away. Any more than that and it is wasted because it will carry very little heat with it as it drips off. And YES.... a VERY fine mist would be a good thing. The finer the better.
 
Corrosion

Working on electronics for the Army for the past 20 years, we use alcohol all the time to clean circuit boards, and electronic components. So corrosion should not be an issue at all, especially how small of an amount you are using and how long you are using it.

It doesn't corrode circuit boards so it should be good on an aluminum intercooler as well.

Smitty
 
So spraying water or alcohol won't cause the intercooler to crack from heat stress?

I know if you pour cold liquids into a superhot glass the glass will shatter, and I figure the same principle applies to metals as well, doesnt it?

anyhow, that's my worry with misters etc.
 
The_Ghost said:
So spraying water or alcohol won't cause the intercooler to crack from heat stress?

I know if you pour cold liquids into a superhot glass the glass will shatter, and I figure the same principle applies to metals as well, doesnt it?

Anyhow, that's my worry with misters etc.
If the IC was made hardened steel or most alloys of cast iron/steel, depending on how they were heat treated, you may have problems with stress cracking but with aluminum there should be nothing to worry about.

Cold water in a hot glass or cold water in a hot cast iron engine block will cause them to crack/shatter because they are brittle. Aluminum is soft enough that it stands up very well to extreme temperature changes. It also dissapates heat quite well.
 
XR7inWI said:
If the IC was made hardened steel or most alloys of cast iron/steel, depending on how they were heat treated, you may have problems with stress cracking but with aluminum there should be nothing to worry about.

Cold water in a hot glass or cold water in a hot cast iron engine block will cause them to crack/shatter because they are brittle. Aluminum is soft enough that it stands up very well to extreme temperature changes. It also dissapates heat quite well.

The stock IC is aluminum, right?
 
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