IC piping connector

Treys92

Registered User
Looking for some advice, pictures, direction here guys.

Here's the deal, a short while back, I installed a double IC, which has performed flawlessly. But, as many of you may know, Lining up all of the piping w/ a DIC is a pain in the ~~~. I have an idea to use a silicon coupler to replace the spanner nut connection. This would make it much easier to connect in the future, as it'll give you a little bit of play. I know this has been done before, but I'm not sure on how to go about it?

Do I need to get a new top without a flange on it? Can I just cut the spanner nut and flanges off and slap a silicon coupler on?

I recently saw a pic of someones engine posted on here where they had what looked to be a flexible silicone coupler, but now I can't find it to ask where they got it from...searching didn't help.

Any info, suggestions, or advice is more than welcome. Thanks.

-Trey
 
This is my technical response:

Notice the two grooves cut into the outlet of the top. You unscrew that part of the top to remove the collar nut. I can't remember if it's a right or left hand thread, but that's what you do.
 
Thanks Pablo, that info will come in useful in a few days when I hopefully get this project under way...stupid fuel pressure regulator.

Anyone else have some insight for me?

-Trey
 
Treys92 said:
Thanks Pablo, that info will come in useful in a few days when I hopefully get this project under way...stupid fuel pressure regulator.

Anyone else have some insight for me?

-Trey

ha i hate that regulator the bolts in the back of it are so hard to get at. i was also thinkin of using a coupler instead. much easier for install and removal. it should seal just as good as the spanner nut right?
 
I would think it would work just fine, I know I've seen it before. Just waiting for someone to chime in that has done it before. It would make removing and reinstalling the SC so much easier.
 
turn the sleeve clock wise to remove it its backwards from what your used to ,

if ya cant get it to move use a big pipe wrench on it but wrap the sleeve witha belt or other leather so as not to scar it . if all else fails cut the sleeve seat what ever off by cutting across it at notch it will break in two if you vcut it at both notches cut as deepo as you can then give it a rap with a hammer it will split . ive had to do this to one top.

most come off with lots of steady clockwise pressure. i have made sockets for this removal but they are east to get for truck axles some have same sloted nuts as our blower tops.
 
Treys92 said:
I would think it would work just fine, I know I've seen it before. Just waiting for someone to chime in that has done it before. It would make removing and reinstalling the SC so much easier.
R&R of the IC really isn't that hard and if you use a gasket, it is even easier. Properly securing the IC tubes to the bracket is key to an easy IC installation.

Paul
 
Manny - Thanks for the info.

Paul- It isn't hard at all with a stock IC, that can be done in no time with little effort. But when you factor in a DBL IC that is wedged into the engine bay, and doesn't have the exact angle for the top tube that the stock IC would have... It makes it more complicated. I'm sure many others and perhaps even yourself have dealt with this before. This just seems like a much easier alternative, and if I'm going to have it apart, I may as well do it.

-Trey
 
Treys92 said:
But when you factor in a DBL IC that is wedged into the engine bay, and doesn't have the exact angle for the top tube that the stock IC would have... It makes it more complicated.
I should have been more specific. Stock or double IC, it should not matter. If your intercooler was made correctly, the angle does not change. It sounds like your troubles are being caused by an improperly built double IC. Since the IC is supported by the IC tubes, if you go to a coupler, it will have to be a hump hose and you will have to permanently mount the IC in place. IMO, it is overcomplicating the situation and could end up costly. It is your car and your choice, I am just trying to shed some light on the issues you are having and drawbacks you may run into.

Paul
 
The flange on the top has very fine left-handed threads. Use a propane torch to warm it up pretty good to "destroy" the integrity of the threadlock compound in the threads and then try removing the flange.

'bird
 
I wouldn't do it. As Paul mentioned the IC tubes actually support the weight of the intercooler. If you remove the rigid support from the upper IC tube, then all support must come from the lower tube. I think your better off triming the radiator bracket about a 1/2" all the way across the area where the IC sits to give the IC a little wiggle room. It would also help a great deal to move the radiator about a 1/4" towards the passenger side, but doing that requires reworking the rubber mounting grommets and the upper mounts.

David
 
Paul & David N.-

Thanks for the info. I guess I never really thought about how much of a strain the lower IC tube would be under If I went to a setup like that. I think the next time I have the IC out, I will modify how the top of the Radiator bracket mounts.

I have heard of people drilling out the IC top holes a size bigger, and then using a washer with the bolts. I don't see any drawbacks to doing this, and it seems like it would give you just enough extra play to bolt things up with a little less strain... any input?

-Trey
 
Treys92 said:
I have heard of people drilling out the IC top holes a size bigger, and then using a washer with the bolts. I don't see any drawbacks to doing this, and it seems like it would give you just enough extra play to bolt things up with a little less strain... any input?

-Trey
I wouldn't do that either. I recently worked on a car that had the holes drilled out larger and the case was cracked from it.

Paul
 
If the lower IC tube is supported at the ACC bracket as it is supposed to be, then there is no excessive strain on the lower IC tube. Then you can mount the IC off the lower IC tube and allow the upper end to float slightly. Using a silicone connector at the SC top really helps align a raised top. I use a long piece of silicone (about 5" is preferable) and a short section of 2.75" aluminum tubing as a sleeve inside the silicone. That way the tubes don't have to meet up exactly and the silicone won't get sucked in under vacuum.

This also helps alleviate the closeness of the IC connection to your UD alternator pulley. I bolt the upper IC tube to the ACC bracket also, but often using shims, spacers, etc. to get the aligment I want. You also have to slot the mounting hole in the upper IC tube.
 
Back
Top