Motor Mount Replacement Procedures

rickbtbird

Registered User
I got a set of instructions to replace my fluid mounts with solid ones from MN12Performance. Has anybody used these procedures? I'm doing the replacement from home and I don't have a hoist so, I guess I have to use a jack to lift the motor. Also, I'm not 100% sure how to do the sub frame assembly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I have changed several sets of mounts WITHOUT dropping the subframe. The job may be more simple with the subframe down but as I said it does not need to be removed. Now with that said this job is a royal pain unless you are double jointed with tiny hands. Just use a board and jack under the oil pan
 
Unless you pull the accessory mounts off, you'll be doing it all from the bottom.
You'll need two jacks if you're going to drop the subfram and also hold the engine up.

Best to try and just leave the subframe and jack up the engine using a block of wood on the oil pan. I'd remove the plastic cowel that's under the wiper arms to gain more clearance to raise the engine.

Getting the mount bolts off is tough, as they are on there tight. When I did my mounts I had the accessory brackets off so I could do it from the top.
 
Accessory Mounts

That's three votes I've seen for the accessory mounts, two votes for the jack and board under the oil pan, and no votes for lowering the sub frame.
 
I would never drop the subframe, just take off your accessory brackets and ic and ic tubes. Then jack the oil pan with a block of wood and get to work. Impact wrench will loosen the top bolts right up. Hand tighten them with a torque wrench.
 
Tools needed

So far it appears I have all the tools:
  • Two floor jacks and an extra standard hydraulic jack.
  • A block of wood (got plenty of that hanging around).
  • Eight Jack stands and a set of rhino ramps.
  • Impact wrench, air ratchet ect...
  • Torque wrenches in several ranges.
  • I got the star socket for the sub frame too but, hopefully I won't need it.
  • Assorted hammers.
I've removed the IC's and accessory bracket before so that shouldn't be too big of a problem. I already have the upper exhaust off because I replaced the bushings and mount on the tranny cross member this weekend. Wish me luck.
 
I suspend the engine and lower the subframe just a little. Makes access alot easier and a good time to do headers as well.
Alan
 
I take off the exhaust manifolds and have plenty of room... Also a great time to port out the "collecor" of the stock manifold...
 
sizemoremk said:
I take off the exhaust manifolds and have plenty of room... Also a great time to port out the "collecor" of the stock manifold...
That's a good idea too. Maybe I could strip more bolts working on this mutha. The collectors on my 95 are only 2". My 90 has the ported ones out to 2 1/4 and it sounds so good with the custom exhaust.
 
I can't believe I forgot to mentiont his earlier, but it is very important to use 6pt sockets on those bolts!

I spent every night for two weeks and a good part of a weekend trying to get some stripped bolts off a 93 SC....
 
sizemoremk said:
I can't believe I forgot to mentiont his earlier, but it is very important to use 6pt sockets on those bolts!

I spent every night for two weeks and a good part of a weekend trying to get some stripped bolts off a 93 SC....
That makes perfect sense, what's your thought's about reusing the manifold bolts?
 
I reused mine, but you're not supposed to. No leaks yet. But if I didn't plan on rebuilding the motor in the next 18-24 months I wouldn't have reused them.
 
Same here, I've used this set of manifold bolts 3 times, I just clen them with a wire wheel, and use anti-sieze....
 
Started Today

I got all the parts I ordered last week except the tbird88 ported exhaust manifolds so I started on it today. This is what I had to remove:
  • All pullies (except the blower) including the jackshaft
  • upper exhaust
  • intake system
  • blower top and IC tube
  • Coil
  • Alternator
  • Unbolt A/C compressor and move way from the bracket
  • Pasanger side accessorie bracket
  • Unbolt the drivers side accessorie bracket with the p/s pump attached and move it forward.
  • Lower IC tube.
That allowed me to get to the passanger mount. That mount didn't look that bad but what a bummer it was geting the bolt out of the subframe bracket. I think it was stripped and I may need a new bolt and bracket.

There's no way to get the driver's side mount off unless I remove the exhaust manaifold but I got it loosened up and it's broken in half. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the cowel and the drivers side exhaust manifold to get the bracket out. I'm hopping this accounts for the thumping noise I was hearing when driving the car.

Tranny mounts were done last month.

I also got a BJH balancer, SPC downtubes, underdrive pullies and new mounts. At the rate I work, I'll be eating turkey the day I start putting things back on.
 
heck, you are getting things done at about the same rate that I think about them. I'm just now getting around to the stuff I thought about two years ago.
 
Motor Mounts are out

For those of you that have never seen a what a broken motor mount looks like here ya go.

After removing the drivers side exhaust manifold I got the motor mouts completely out and the drivers side is the bad one. See attached pics
 

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Stripped Out Bracket and bolt

Crap, when I was removing the passenger side bolt through the sub frame the bolt came out rather hard and trashed the threads on both the bolt and motor mount bracket :eek:. Sucks for me too as this is a major delay for me. I searched around several sites and no parts of any kind are listed :eek: :eek: . Does anybody know where I can get a Right Hand (passenger side) Bracket and Bolt for a 95?
 
Hardware store? Bring one with to find the thread, then see if you can find one that long.

Otherwise junk yard. Same bolt for any year MN12 chassis, tbird or cougar. Should be plenty in the yard. May require 3.8 motor, but I wonder.
 
k i have a cheap fix for the motor mount and it should never brake again i wanna see what u guys think about it . its kind of ghetto but hay u dont have 2 buy a new motor mount every 6months. also in the pics i took the bult that go thru the month needs 2 be fliped around and u need 2 make a spacer so that the mount will have stock hights i did this 2 my car just wanted 2 see if any 1 thinks its a good idea please dont down me
 

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