PDA

View Full Version : Motor Mount Replacement Procedures



rickbtbird
09-17-2006, 09:08 PM
I got a set of instructions to replace my fluid mounts with solid ones from MN12Performance (http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12parts/em/3.8_5.0_EM-install.pdf). Has anybody used these procedures? I'm doing the replacement from home and I don't have a hoist so, I guess I have to use a jack to lift the motor. Also, I'm not 100% sure how to do the sub frame assembly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Pit Bird
09-17-2006, 09:49 PM
I have changed several sets of mounts WITHOUT dropping the subframe. The job may be more simple with the subframe down but as I said it does not need to be removed. Now with that said this job is a royal pain unless you are double jointed with tiny hands. Just use a board and jack under the oil pan

Mike8675309
09-17-2006, 10:24 PM
Unless you pull the accessory mounts off, you'll be doing it all from the bottom.
You'll need two jacks if you're going to drop the subfram and also hold the engine up.

Best to try and just leave the subframe and jack up the engine using a block of wood on the oil pan. I'd remove the plastic cowel that's under the wiper arms to gain more clearance to raise the engine.

Getting the mount bolts off is tough, as they are on there tight. When I did my mounts I had the accessory brackets off so I could do it from the top.

rickbtbird
09-17-2006, 10:31 PM
That's three votes I've seen for the accessory mounts, two votes for the jack and board under the oil pan, and no votes for lowering the sub frame.

Scott Long
09-17-2006, 10:33 PM
I would never drop the subframe, just take off your accessory brackets and ic and ic tubes. Then jack the oil pan with a block of wood and get to work. Impact wrench will loosen the top bolts right up. Hand tighten them with a torque wrench.

rickbtbird
09-17-2006, 11:58 PM
So far it appears I have all the tools:

Two floor jacks and an extra standard hydraulic jack.
A block of wood (got plenty of that hanging around).
Eight Jack stands and a set of rhino ramps.
Impact wrench, air ratchet ect...
Torque wrenches in several ranges.
I got the star socket for the sub frame too but, hopefully I won't need it.
Assorted hammers.

I've removed the IC's and accessory bracket before so that shouldn't be too big of a problem. I already have the upper exhaust off because I replaced the bushings and mount on the tranny cross member this weekend. Wish me luck.

Dirtyd0g
09-18-2006, 07:31 AM
I suspend the engine and lower the subframe just a little. Makes access alot easier and a good time to do headers as well.
Alan

sizemoremk
09-18-2006, 09:06 AM
I take off the exhaust manifolds and have plenty of room... Also a great time to port out the "collecor" of the stock manifold...

rickbtbird
09-18-2006, 11:29 AM
I take off the exhaust manifolds and have plenty of room... Also a great time to port out the "collecor" of the stock manifold...
That's a good idea too. Maybe I could strip more bolts working on this mutha. The collectors on my 95 are only 2". My 90 has the ported ones out to 2 1/4 and it sounds so good with the custom exhaust.

sizemoremk
09-18-2006, 11:37 AM
I can't believe I forgot to mentiont his earlier, but it is very important to use 6pt sockets on those bolts!

I spent every night for two weeks and a good part of a weekend trying to get some stripped bolts off a 93 SC....

rickbtbird
09-18-2006, 01:56 PM
I can't believe I forgot to mentiont his earlier, but it is very important to use 6pt sockets on those bolts!

I spent every night for two weeks and a good part of a weekend trying to get some stripped bolts off a 93 SC....
That makes perfect sense, what's your thought's about reusing the manifold bolts?

Mike8675309
09-18-2006, 08:39 PM
I reused mine, but you're not supposed to. No leaks yet. But if I didn't plan on rebuilding the motor in the next 18-24 months I wouldn't have reused them.

sizemoremk
09-18-2006, 09:37 PM
Same here, I've used this set of manifold bolts 3 times, I just clen them with a wire wheel, and use anti-sieze....

rickbtbird
11-06-2006, 10:07 PM
I got all the parts I ordered last week except the tbird88 ported exhaust manifolds so I started on it today. This is what I had to remove:

All pullies (except the blower) including the jackshaft
upper exhaust
intake system
blower top and IC tube
Coil
Alternator
Unbolt A/C compressor and move way from the bracket
Pasanger side accessorie bracket
Unbolt the drivers side accessorie bracket with the p/s pump attached and move it forward.
Lower IC tube.

That allowed me to get to the passanger mount. That mount didn't look that bad but what a bummer it was geting the bolt out of the subframe bracket. I think it was stripped and I may need a new bolt and bracket.

There's no way to get the driver's side mount off unless I remove the exhaust manaifold but I got it loosened up and it's broken in half. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the cowel and the drivers side exhaust manifold to get the bracket out. I'm hopping this accounts for the thumping noise I was hearing when driving the car.

Tranny mounts were done last month.

I also got a BJH balancer, SPC downtubes, underdrive pullies and new mounts. At the rate I work, I'll be eating turkey the day I start putting things back on.

Tcian
11-06-2006, 10:39 PM
heck, you are getting things done at about the same rate that I think about them. I'm just now getting around to the stuff I thought about two years ago.

rickbtbird
11-07-2006, 12:51 PM
For those of you that have never seen a what a broken motor mount looks like here ya go.

After removing the drivers side exhaust manifold I got the motor mouts completely out and the drivers side is the bad one. See attached pics

rickbtbird
11-07-2006, 10:20 PM
Crap, when I was removing the passenger side bolt through the sub frame the bolt came out rather hard and trashed the threads on both the bolt and motor mount bracket :eek:. Sucks for me too as this is a major delay for me. I searched around several sites and no parts of any kind are listed :eek: :eek: . Does anybody know where I can get a Right Hand (passenger side) Bracket and Bolt for a 95?

Mike8675309
11-08-2006, 12:13 AM
Hardware store? Bring one with to find the thread, then see if you can find one that long.

Otherwise junk yard. Same bolt for any year MN12 chassis, tbird or cougar. Should be plenty in the yard. May require 3.8 motor, but I wonder.

92sclikenew
11-08-2006, 11:39 AM
k i have a cheap fix for the motor mount and it should never brake again i wanna see what u guys think about it . its kind of ghetto but hay u dont have 2 buy a new motor mount every 6months. also in the pics i took the bult that go thru the month needs 2 be fliped around and u need 2 make a spacer so that the mount will have stock hights i did this 2 my car just wanted 2 see if any 1 thinks its a good idea please dont down me

92sclikenew
11-08-2006, 11:40 AM
also in the last pic u must cut the bolt down

91supacoop
11-08-2006, 11:59 AM
Crap, when I was removing the passenger side bolt through the sub frame the bolt came out rather hard and trashed the threads on both the bolt and motor mount bracket :eek:. Sucks for me too as this is a major delay for me. I searched around several sites and no parts of any kind are listed :eek: :eek: . Does anybody know where I can get a Right Hand (passenger side) Bracket and Bolt for a 95?

if it's not ridiculously destroyed just buya set of thread files. Actually, buy them anyway....you will find that they come in handy.

rickbtbird
11-08-2006, 12:31 PM
if it's not ridiculously destroyed just buya set of thread files. Actually, buy them anyway....you will find that they come in handy.
A thread file or chaser would work sometimes but not in this case as the threads and blots are FUBR. I'm still looking for a used bolt and bracket.

rickbtbird
11-27-2006, 10:23 PM
Finally I got my new solid mounts installed on my 95! Thanks to "birds4us" he was able to get me a replacement driver’s side bracket. Now that I've done this I know for sure it won't take me as long if I ever have to do this again. Hopefully I won't as now both my 90 and 95 have solid rubber mounts. Taking them off is a lot easier then putting them back in. Here are a few things to note for anybody attempting to do this with a floor jack.

You have to remove the driver’s side exhaust manifold to get that one off.
During installation bolt the mounts into the motor first and then lower it onto the sub-frame.
Write down all four letter words you invent when doing this job because they could come in handy. As soon as I started swearing everything tightened right up! :D


Next weekend I can work on getting the blower off and start more cleaning, inspect the intake manifold gasket and replace the o-rings on the injectors. I got a feeling this car won’t see the road again until spring.

gspacerant
11-28-2006, 07:49 AM
hmm, doing them on my 89 SC and my buddies 89 XR7 (both within the last couple months) i didnt need to take any of that stuff off. The only thing i needed to do was disconnect the steering shaft (1 13mm bolt), and removing the cowl makes reinstallation a LOT easier...

TbirdSCFan
11-28-2006, 12:23 PM
k i have a cheap fix for the motor mount and it should never brake again i wanna see what u guys think about it . its kind of ghetto but hay u dont have 2 buy a new motor mount a 6months also in the pics i took the bult that go thru the month needs 2 be fliped around and u need 2 make a spacer so that the mount will have stock hights i did this 2 my car just wanted 2 see if any 1 thinks its a good idea please dont down me Engiuity at its best. :rolleyes: Its sort of a poor mans solid rubber mount. Since you used shims to bring it up to stock height and have the upper pad as cushion, looks like it should work. Only thing I might expect is it would make a bit more vibration. Let us know how it works out.

TbirdSCFan
11-28-2006, 12:26 PM
hmm, doing them on my 89 SC and my buddies 89 XR7 (both within the last couple months) i didnt need to take any of that stuff off. The only thing i needed to do was disconnect the steering shaft (1 13mm bolt), and removing the cowl makes reinstallation a LOT easier...I don't think I could call it standard SC repair if I didn't have to remove the IC tubes and PSP bracket. :rolleyes: It just wouldn't feel right.

92sclikenew
11-28-2006, 12:29 PM
thos home made soild mounts are working good have then on the car sence no prob's little bit vibes but not bad i dont know how the real soild ones feel but for a cheap not pretty much never having to do a motor mount again i think its well worth tryin on any sc/rx7.

92sclikenew
11-28-2006, 12:35 PM
wow guys i dont pull anything off my car when i do my motor mount(drivers side only)so far. just do them from the bottom of the car but i unbolt the mont while its still in the car and bring the two brakets apart one by one and then the say for reinstalling them its not that hard i have done this 3 times. one was a NA sc and two were my sc that i own now.

gspacerant
11-28-2006, 01:07 PM
hooray for slender arms, patience, and a universal...

i found i just had to disconnect the steering shaft to get the mount back in, and being just one bolt then some prying, i didnt mind taking it off...

had very good luck just sticking my arm up through some hole where i could get my right hand at the bolt/stud in the driver's side bracket/engine (passenger side is cake), then slide a combination of socket, universal, and extensions in through the wheel well, use my right hand to get it on good and solid, then throw a ratchet onto the whole thing, get my hand out of the way and crank it.

92sclikenew
11-28-2006, 01:13 PM
yup that what i do but with out the steering removal and i didnt have to pry anything.

gspacerant
11-28-2006, 02:27 PM
well the prying was referring to some flathead screwdriver prying to get the steering shaft off the rag joint after removing the bolt

Black93sc
12-05-2006, 12:06 PM
I put a post up here a while ago when I did my motor mounts:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80097

92sclikenew
11-04-2009, 04:21 PM
k i have a cheap fix for the motor mount and it should never brake again i wanna see what u guys think about it . its kind of ghetto but hay u dont have 2 buy a new motor mount every 6months. also in the pics i took the bult that go thru the month needs 2 be fliped around and u need 2 make a spacer so that the mount will have stock hights i did this 2 my car just wanted 2 see if any 1 thinks its a good idea please dont down me

sorry to bring this old thread back but was looking back at some old pics and came across this and figure i would respond since i had removed the motor...


the motor was still solid and had no issues the mount worked really well. so if someone is looking for a cheap motor mount that is solid and wont break! all most 4 years later and the thing is still prefect!