Abs Conversion Part #'s

THE BIRDMAN

Registered User
If Anyone Needs Them Here Are The Part #'s To Convert From Abs To Regular Brakes.these Are The Part #'s From Advance Auto Parts.the Master Cylinder Is Bendix Part # 12376 And The Brake Booster Is Cardone Part # 5474305.you Will Also Need A 1/4 By 28 Bolt That Is 1 And A Half Inches Long To Replace The Adjustable Pushrod In The Brake Booster To Get The Brake Pedal Adjustment Right(note:you'll Have To Grind The Bolt Head Into A Circle To Get It To Fit Inside The Master Cylinder).you'll Also Need A Tee Fitting To Hook Up The Brake Booster Plus 6inches Of 3/8 Hose And An Inline Proportioning Valve For The Rear Brakes.i Just Got Done With The Conversion And I Think The Brakes Feel Better Than Ever On My Car.you Don't Even Have To Change The Brake Lines Or Anything All You Have To Do Is Rebend Them A Little To Get Everthing To Match Up Worst Part Of The Swap Is Getting The Booster Installed What A Pain In The A** But It's Defintley Worth It.

Master Cylinder $81.48 Advance Auto Parts
Brake Booster W/core Charge 94.43 Same
Proportining Valve 5.00 Junkyard
1/24 By 28 Bolt .42 Ace Hardware
3/8 Hose .99 Napa
T-fitting (brass) 1.45 Napa

Getting Ride Of A Crappy Abs Teves Ii Priceless.................



Jay
 
Where's the pics??? :) Are the booster and master cylinder from the same application? I'm done with the factory ABS too, and am very tired of this stiff pedal!
 
It is much cheaper getting it at the junkyard. However, As much of a pain in the arse it is to get that booster in there, you don't want to install one that's messed up. Everything else I would say get at the junkyard.;)
 
I would get the booster new if I had it to do over again. The first one I got was not only wrong, but cracked from getting it out of the PIA location. The second used booster fits good and works great but shortly after getting it going, its hissing like crazy when you barely hit the pedal. Get a new booster, maybe use a junkyard one for a core.
 
No The Mastercylinder Is From A 93 Ford Crown Vic And The Booster Is For A 91 Ford T-bird Non Sc.any Parts Store Should Be Able To Cross The #'s I've Listed. Yeah You Can Get The Parts Cheaper At A Junkyard But At A Minimum I Would Buy A New Booster Because It's Such A P.i.t.a To Get It In There.i'll See If I Can Get Some Pics For You,.

P.s. If Someone Needs A Pro-valve I Have An Extra One. So Let Me Know.if Anyone Has Any Questions Let Me Know.


Jay
 
Randle It Took Me About 6 To 8 Hours To Get The Swap Done Most Of The Time Was Spent Getting The Abs Unit Out(about 1hr) And Getting The Booster Installed (about 3hrs) The Rest Of The Time Was Spent Installing And Removing The M/c To Get The Bolt For The Pushrod Adjusted Right. Altogether Not That Bad Installing The Booster Was By Far The Worse Part Once It's In You Golden. All The Rest Is Pretty Easy And Not Near As Frustrating:d
 
about 6 hours total, and i was BEAT.
once I decided to ask for help the booster went right in.
getting that rotten tevs bast_rd out was a pain, had to take it out in pieces because i was working on it where i wasnt supposed to be at the time, and could not take the cowl and other stuff off there...
Used booster works like any other bird I drove, I'm not really worried about it..

paul
 
I Got The Teves 2 Out In One Piece It Actually Came Out Pretty Easy Well Easier Than I Thought And I Didn't Have To Remove The Cowl To Get It Out But I Did To Get The Booster In And Get The Wire Bundle Adjusted A Little.


Jay
 
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Greatly appreciate the parts list!

If Anyone Needs Them Here Are The Part #'s To Convert From Abs To Regular Brakes.these Are The Part #'s From Advance Auto Parts.the Master Cylinder Is Bendix Part # 12376 And The Brake Booster Is Cardone Part # 5474305.you Will Also Need A 1/4 By 28 Bolt That Is 1 And A Half Inches Long To Replace The Adjustable Pushrod In The Brake Booster To Get The Brake Pedal Adjustment Right(note:you'll Have To Grind The Bolt Head Into A Circle To Get It To Fit Inside The Master Cylinder).you'll Also Need A Tee Fitting To Hook Up The Brake Booster Plus 6inches Of 3/8 Hose And An Inline Proportioning Valve For The Rear Brakes.i Just Got Done With The Conversion And I Think The Brakes Feel Better Than Ever On My Car.you Don't Even Have To Change The Brake Lines Or Anything All You Have To Do Is Rebend Them A Little To Get Everthing To Match Up Worst Part Of The Swap Is Getting The Booster Installed What A Pain In The A** But It's Defintley Worth It.

Master Cylinder $81.48 Advance Auto Parts
Brake Booster W/core Charge 94.43 Same
Proportining Valve 5.00 Junkyard
1/24 By 28 Bolt .42 Ace Hardware
3/8 Hose .99 Napa
T-fitting (brass) 1.45 Napa

Getting Ride Of A Crappy Abs Teves Ii Priceless.................



Jay

I have two cars to convert so this helps alot.... now off to work!!! I will take pictures over the next few months on my stick shift 91 and my auto 89. I am ging to try to make agood how to video maybe also so others can ressurect their cars to daily driver status. Mines been down for months.
 
*shrug*

I used the 1991 Baseline parts for my conversion - here's what I would have needed if I bought it all (National brand numbers for the most part, easily crossed to whatever they have locally):

1) Go to a U-Pull-It and get the master cylinder, booster, vacuum check valve, and rubber vacuum hose for your year car. Also, cut all four hard lines as far down as you can, to make sure you get enough of the ferrules. Plus, get the ones that do NOT have the proportioning valve on the side of the master cylinder. Also, clip the wiring harness to the "Low Brake Fluid" switch as far down as you can, in case you, like me, have the 5 wire switch on the ABS unit.

1a) Remove the low fluid "switch" from the bottom of the reservoir if you're using it as core. I'd highly recommend it, but it's your car and your wallet. (All too many boneyard units are missing the cover cap and have water in them. Rust in a MC bore is NOT safe at all. I'd spend the money, and did spend the money, for a rebuilt one. But again, your car, your money, your life.)

2) Use the boneyard master cylinder as core against a Bendix 12378 or equivalent. Also, if you've got any doubts, use the booster as core against a Bendix R2515515 or equivalent. If you were missing the reservoir cap, it's a Dorman 42046 and the gasket (sold separate) is a Dorman 42098 . These are also the HELP! numbers, the UNeedA number has an extra digit that's different (I forget if it's prepended or appended).

3) I also used a M10-1.0 bleeder for the one port I couldn't fill with lines - Dorman 13949 has one in the assortment, but check, you should be able to buy a single from the store.

Now - take the new master cylinder (the one you used the old one as core for), put the bleeder in the M10-1.0 port furthest from the booster side. Use the plugs and hoses, bench bleed this master cylinder.

Remove the wiper arms, the cowl covers, and the platform the windshield wiper motor is on from the car. I unbolted the two vacuum trees from the wiper platform, you might pull the hoses. I'd go ahead and pull the hose to the washer fluid reservoir from that tee, and ease it down - I never did find a check valve to replace the one I broke new (pulled one from a boneyard.)

After disconnecting the battery, remove the three brake lines from the ABS control block, then remove the clip holding the brake pedal swing arm to the piston rod inside. Pull the rod over and remove the brake light switch (aka the BOO switch) from the brake pedal swing arm. Remove the four nuts from inside (13 MM open end for the upper outside one, the others can be reached by a 13MM socket. The open end will work ALSO, but the socket and a rachet work faster.)

Under the hood, carefully remove the ABS unit.

Zip tie the wires from the ABS unit to the cross-firewall wiring harness (loosely right now, you may or may not need to move them later.)

Take the line that comes up from the proportioning valve on the frame rail. If the control valve end is a M12-1.0 (the bigger of the two thread sizes), then you're almost all set on this! If it's a M10-1.0, then you'll have to either get it reflared, or reflare it yourself. BIG hint: If you start a double-flare, but don't do the second step, you've got your bubble flare. And this is one reason why you kept the lines off the boneyard MC, BTW! To make sure you have the proper ferrule if you need it.

The other two lines will be a M10-1.0 and a M12-1.0 ferrule.

Punch out the extra hole in the firewall cover (which will have a rubber plug in it!) for the third post off the booster.

Mount the booster after moving all the wires out of the way. The brake line to the passenger front brake will fit high between the booster and the firewall, but if you're feeling really vigorous, you can gently bend it down and out of the way. If you took the vacuum tees off the wiper platform, now's a perfect time to connect the booster check valve and vacuum line. Note: If you REALLY want to go new, or have any doubts about that check valve, it's a Raybestos CV89000 or equivalent. The vacuum line can be generic of the right size to fit the check valve, but generic won't be bent right to fit JustRight.

While you're underneath getting the nuts on, put the BOO switch back on like you took it off. If it has trouble fitting, try rotating the rod from the booster 180 degrees and seeing if it fits better (if you get it on upside down, the brake lights won't work anywhere near quickly enough.)

Also, after you get this side done, reach way up to the piston for the vacuum dump valve for the cruise control (if you have cruise), and push it towards the brake pedal swing arm (it usually pops back on its adjustments - it's a push/pull adjustment, easy to do, once you realize it needs to be done.) If you're looking you should see the piston retracted into the housing when the pedal is all the way up.

Now mount the master cylinder to the booster.

The two lines to the front brakes go to the pair of ports closer to the firewall.

The one line from the proportioning valve down below? Go to the one port that will be left furthest from the firewall (the M12-1.0 port).

Bleed the brakes using the ABS sequence (RR, LR, RF, LF).

Be VERY careful - as you run the wiring harness around the new booster, seems like it just barely reaches the wiper motor, and what comes unplugged is the park/run switch, so the wiper blades don't auto park.

BTW - While you've got this apart, now is a perfect time to lube up the wiper arm transmission with a lithium or moly-based grease. Or, if we ever find the right parts, to replace the wearing plastic parts with new ones.

Now replace the wiper motor platform, then the cowl covers. Put the wiper arms back on.

Let the car down off the jack stands, and drive it with your new brakes.

You'll have the ANTILOCK light on at this time, but that's because the ABS isn't functioning.

The advantages of using the regular master cylinder on this conversion? Easier to keep track of what part should be used, it's got the proper stroke for this car, and by using the old proportioning valve, you STILL have the proper proportion of braking between the rear and the front. No fancy plumbing required, save for maybe a ferrule change on one line.

Wiring: the switch on the proportioning valve is for the Adjustable Ride Control - the ARC. If you leave it unplugged, it won't auto firm on heavy braking. If you reconnect it, you'll still get that if you leave it in AUTO (I leave it in FIRM, so no biggie for me to not reconnect it.)

Whew. Long message, but it's what I did, and it works great. Well, save for repairing the wiper motor at the same time - so I'm going back in to do thatl It's why I suggested you do it at the same time, instead of taking it apart AGAIN.

RwP


Now, mount the master cylinder (with the plugs still in it from the bench bleed!) to the booster.
 
All this talk about switching to conventional brakes got me thinking. I have an 89 sc that has no engine at this time and was thinking now would be a good time to switch the braking system; I also have a 93 tbird sport 5.0, now my question is can I swap the braking system from the 93 5.0 to the 89 sc? would it be a direct swap?
 
The direct swap would include running the second brake line to the rear.

You can, but it's a bit more work.

Before I SWAPPED, I'd make new brake lines to go back, to avoid moving a 20 year old line that's about to rust out. But your time, your effort.

(That's why I bought the bleeder screw - I didn't want to run the second line back, and that would also entail doing a second proportioning valve. My method fixed that. And no, I didn't figure out to use the bleeder screw - that came from another thread here!)

RwP
 
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