Auto ~ manual conversion

Digitalchaos

Registered User
Precisely what is involved in the conversion from an automatic transmission to a manual M5R2? What differences exist between a manual and an auto? Rear end, computer, ect?

Also, does anyone know to exist a Thunderbird 'roadster' based on the '89-'97 style car?
 
help?

is there any updated websites / people that know about the conversion from an automatic to a 5-speed. that link is dead.
 
yeah i would love to know too. i have been craving a 5 speed since i drove the '95 5 speed a couple months ago. But i don't want to sell my baby and find another one so i'm thinkin' swap too. That and my car is a '93 and has 98k miles. Low for a '93 so i will keep mine. I could stock up on parts all summer. :D
 
Some Differences

Sorry, this isn't the post you're waiting for, but in the meantime, here's some differences to look out for.

Automatics have 3.27 rear end gears, and 5-spds come with 2.73. So If you put a 5-spd in your automatic car, or put the rear end from an auto in your 5-spd, you'll be driving what i like to call the rocket-tank. The gears are really low and close together. Some people say 1st is useless because it's so low, but I like it. With good tires, it gives you quite a take off from a stand still. But, it's very easy to spin the tires and over-rev. Awsome mod/benefit in my expeirence. Make sure you're rear end is full of fluid, and that your 5-spd is in good health, there is a lot of torque here.

There won't be the connection for the sensor that kills the starter when the clutch isn't engaged. i.e. on a 5 spd, you have to depress the clutch to start the car. This is a part of the wireing in the dash. I swapped an auto dash into by last 5-spd, and no longer had to depress the clutch to start the car, however, b/c the dash was out of a '90, I then had to depress the brake in order to start the car. Also, curise contol no longer worked on that car after the dash swap.

Center console will have to be changed. And I know there's a lot more to it, but here's what I know in the mean time. :D
 
its really a piece of cake, email me for details, I'm not gonna type it all out here, honestly its very little more work than pulling your auto. it can be done in a weekend, or actually divided into 2 weekends. anyhow, like I said, drop me an email cato421@bellsouth.net and I'll tell you all that needs to be done.
 
Doing the differencial bushings at the same time is a good idea. This will help with the famous 5-spd issue you'll inherit (Horrendous Wheel Hop) as will installing the coil airbags. I didn't know about that at the time I had the swap done, but I plan on it when I have some $$$. The 5-spd with the auto (3.27) rear end make the car feel about 500 lbs lighter. It's a blast to drive though!!! It also makes a custom exhaust sound even better! Don't forget to pick up a speedo gear to install in the trans to correct the speedometer. Otherwise it will read about 10mph off.
 
wellllllll

its not true that the clutch interlock connector isn't present on auto scs, its there with a dead end plug over it, so when its all said and done everything will work as it did from the factory-if youre converting a late model there will be wiring issues as the factory aode is controlled by the computer-youll need a 5 speed computer, possibly a harness. the rear differential bushings are a must for the conversion-get some high quality poly ones-itll help the new found wheel hop a 5 speed brings with it. if you have an aftermarket alarm installed, or maybe a satelite radio, or even an aftermarket stereo-maybe a one piece fully welded exhaust (AHEM-BRANDON!!!) its going to make the swap a PITA b/c the dashboard should come out to drill the holes for the clutch setup-factory harness unplugs the dash from the rest of the wiring-but when ppl install aftermarket stuff it just makes a jumbled mess-i know this one conversion i did for a gentleman in GROTON (AHEM) was a horror-lol
also, if you have a remote starter its easier to leave the clutch interlock switch out entirely.

if you need any pointers, shoot me an email, ive probably done as many if not more conversions than anyone else-feel free to ask some of the other members (AHEM) about my work/expertise. Mike
 
Charkly said:
its not true that the clutch interlock connector isn't present on auto scs, its there with a dead end plug over it, so when its all said and done everything will work as it did from the factory-if youre converting a late model there will be wiring issues as the factory aode is controlled by the computer-youll need a 5 speed computer, possibly a harness. the rear differential bushings are a must for the conversion-get some high quality poly ones-itll help the new found wheel hop a 5 speed brings with it. if you have an aftermarket alarm installed, or maybe a satelite radio, or even an aftermarket stereo-maybe a one piece fully welded exhaust (AHEM-BRANDON!!!) its going to make the swap a PITA b/c the dashboard should come out to drill the holes for the clutch setup-factory harness unplugs the dash from the rest of the wiring-but when ppl install aftermarket stuff it just makes a jumbled mess-i know this one conversion i did for a gentleman in GROTON (AHEM) was a horror-lol
also, if you have a remote starter its easier to leave the clutch interlock switch out entirely.

if you need any pointers, shoot me an email, ive probably done as many if not more conversions than anyone else-feel free to ask some of the other members (AHEM) about my work/expertise. Mike
I thought you only needed a 5 speed computer if it's for a 94-95? I think he has a 93 by his sig. so he would have an AOD? Not sure, just asking. I am doing a swap soon from a 89 SC 5 speed to my 90 XR7. I was told I won't need a 5 speed computer.
 
NMxr7SC said:
I thought you only needed a 5 speed computer if it's for a 94-95? I think he has a 93 by his sig. so he would have an AOD? Not sure, just asking. I am doing a swap soon from a 89 SC 5 speed to my 90 XR7. I was told I won't need a 5 speed computer.

NOOOOOOOOO! I bought a 5-speed EEC and it won't work no early model SC's that came auto. The reason: The 5-speed cars came with EGR and the Autos didn't if you have an early model car save yourself the $50 and keep your auto EEC unless you feel the need to set up an EGR :rolleyes:

On a side note who wants a 5-speed EEC??? :D
 
SCollord90 said:
NOOOOOOOOO! I bought a 5-speed EEC and it won't work no early model SC's that came auto. The reason: The 5-speed cars came with EGR and the Autos didn't if you have an early model car save yourself the $50 and keep your auto EEC unless you feel the need to set up an EGR :rolleyes:

On a side note who wants a 5-speed EEC??? :D
where've you been dude? did you ever do the 5 speed swap? if so send me a pm so we can discuss it. Later -Jeremy
 
if youre converting a late model there will be wiring issues as the factory aode is controlled by the computer-youll need a 5 speed computer, possibly a harness

not sure if you read that part-by late model im referring to the 94-95 cars-early models (89-93) dont need a 5 speed computer, but theyll still be top speed limited, slightly less aggressive tune, and i believe lower fuel cutoff-

good luck, Mike
 
i just completed the swap in my 91 and man is it fun but what speedo gear do you use to correct the difference.
 
speedo gear

go to supercoupeperformance.com and they have the gear you need...its only a couple of bucks and takes about 2minutes to install...
 
Search for "3.27 + Speedo + Gear"

21-tooth gear, Ford # C4OZ 17271 A

This is for a 5-spd trans. with 3.27 gears in the rear.
 
5 speed swap

its not true that the clutch interlock connector isn't present on auto scs, its there with a dead end plug over it, so when its all said and done everything will work as it did from the factory-if youre converting a late model there will be wiring issues as the factory aode is controlled by the computer-youll need a 5 speed computer, possibly a harness. the rear differential bushings are a must for the conversion-get some high quality poly ones-itll help the new found wheel hop a 5 speed brings with it. if you have an aftermarket alarm installed, or maybe a satelite radio, or even an aftermarket stereo-maybe a one piece fully welded exhaust (AHEM-BRANDON!!!) its going to make the swap a ~~~~ b/c the dashboard should come out to drill the holes for the clutch setup-factory harness unplugs the dash from the rest of the wiring-but when ppl install aftermarket stuff it just makes a jumbled mess-i know this one conversion i did for a gentleman in GROTON (AHEM) was a horror-lol
also, if you have a remote starter its easier to leave the clutch interlock switch out entirely.

if you need any pointers, shoot me an email, ive probably done as many if not more conversions than anyone else-feel free to ask some of the other members (AHEM) about my work/expertise. Mike

hello Mike, doing a 94 5 speed swap. I have a 94 5 speed ecu, pedal installed, now its the wiring. I cant find any wiring diagrams that show everything I need to know. I can figure out a few but not all 15 wires. it has a plug (8 pin) that goes I think to the engine compartment that I have no clue. I didn't take it apart, bought it that way, rod knock. shop of previous owner thought it was flex plate, and they didn't put it back together. Any help would be great. Thanks Dave
 
hello Mike, doing a 94 5 speed swap. I have a 94 5 speed ecu, pedal installed, now its the wiring. I cant find any wiring diagrams that show everything I need to know. I can figure out a few but not all 15 wires. it has a plug (8 pin) that goes I think to the engine compartment that I have no clue. I didn't take it apart, bought it that way, rod knock. shop of previous owner thought it was flex plate, and they didn't put it back together. Any help would be great. Thanks Dave

Grab the Electrical/Vacuum Troubleshooting Guide (EVTM) for your 1994; it'll have all the wiring in it.

Try https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=1994+Thunderbird+service+manual&_sacat=0&_sop=15 for sources.

RwP
 
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