Report on UCA/Upper Ball joint replacement

Well, what a job that was! Both my upper ball joints were bad, so off to NAPA for new Upper Control Arms (seems everyone likes to use the term UCA's). 68 bucks each side, but I got some other brand for the right one (there was only one available in town) and it did look kind of weak. The left side was TRW. I just want to say that I LOVE AIR TOOLS. I just got a new air compressor with some air tools and that saved me a lot of time. The drivers side rear UCA nut was a little challenging to get to and get loose. Once loose, a 90 degree got that off pretty quick. The write up at tccoa.com was a good one to read before you start the job. Also, shoot the crap out of the ball joint bolt. That one was the hardest bolt to get out so make sure to spray PB blaster on it a couple of days before. I just put a cresent on the head after the nut was removed and twisted a little bit up and down to break it loose. Once loose, a 2 pound sledge got it out fine. Then hammer a wedge in the gap. Just wanted to pass along my .02 adventures of SC repair.

I like doing ball joints now that I got my air tools as well.

Those UCA's you got, did they come with a lifetime warranty?

The ball joints on the LCA are replaceable as well....and they take about 2 hrs to do. And they are a P.I.T.A...

I don't know if they come with a lifetime warranty. I think I remember reading something about a L.L.W., which I assume means a "limited lifetime warranty". Probably from all of us that take back our ball joints after they wear out and got new one for free! "They" always eventually catch on, DARN IT! My lower ones do not need replacement....yet. Of course right after I get one problem fixed, you know what happens. Boost gauge is at 0 all the time while driving. Time to take the dash apart and see if the hose fell off of the boost gauge nipple. It never ends.