Removing m90...Need help!

Sampo

Registered User
I'm finally removing my blower and changing it to a new one!

I tried to make search but I didn't find anything.

What I have to disconnect behind the inlet plenum that I can pull the whole thing away ( blower, inlet plenum, TB ). I think I'm missing something. It's moving but it won't come off. Is there some bolt still behind the inlet plenum or what?!

Please answer ASAP! And if you have pics, send them!

Thanks!

Sami
 
blower removal

There are 3 bolts that hold the blower itself on. You need to take the egr off, I bet thats what is holding you up. Thats the hardest part of taking the blower off. The egr fitting is connected to the inlet plenum and held by 2 bolts.

I was able to pull everything out as 1 piece except the lower intercooler pipe. EGR stays with the exhaust manifold.

chris
 
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when i had gone through

my first M90 i was pleased to get a posts from many people, MR BLVD gave me this piece of information

. Remove top IC tube --- Harbor Freight is your friend -- set of spanner wrenches ~ 15.00 do not buy the special tool from Ford!, use a spanner wrench and a rubber dead blow hammer to loosen the collar, 13mm wrench or socket to remove the flange at the IC (5 to 10 minutes)

2. remove intake tube - disconnect the MAF wire, loosen the hose clamps at the TB, unclamp the filter housing top, wiggle the tube assembly and pull outward using the filter top for leverage (5 to 10 minutes)

3. disconect throttle cable linkage from the TB using a flat blade screwdriver to pry the cable loose, it will be tight fit, apply pressure slowly and then "pop" off it comes (1 minute)

4. Remove throttle cable bracket from intake plenum 2 10 mm capscrews, bottom one is a little tight (may not be on stock plenum) take your time and work it out ... this is were you might get a scrapped knuckle depending on how big you hands are (5 minutes)

5. Loosen the clamp (8 mm socket is best --- also for intake tube clamps) holding the rubber bypass tube to the inlete plenum, tighten the clamp on the outlet plenum, this tube can be a little tight if the SC has not been removed in some time, take a small flat blade screwdriver and work it under the tube ... be careful ... you don't want to cut the rubber coupling (2 minutes)

6. Remove the belt from the SC, find a breaker bar type socket wrench (I've also used on of those L'Cheepo torque wrenches with the needle indicator ... if yo do this, never use this for a torque wrench again) and a 18mm socket. You need this to rotate the tensioner pulley so you can remove the belt. The socket goes on the pulley, not the spring housing (2 minutes)

7. Use a 15 mm socket to remove the largest of the 3 bolts securing the SC to the intake manifold, use a 10 mm (may be 12) socket to remove the other two bolts. (3 minutes)

8. Do you have an EGR valve? If not, you are almost home ... if yes, you poor basrd you need to remove the EGR valve from the inlet plenum before you can remove the SC ... the first capscrew is easy 10 mm I think there is a second one .... yea I know you can't see it but trust me it is there and it is probably on everyones top ten list of things I hate about the SC ... get a short / stubby ratchet, a short extension, and a universal joint, if you can find a ratchet with an adjustable head (angles vs. just straight) this will help ... have faith and may the FORCE be with you ( 10 to 20 minutes) you will get frustrated but hang in there .... OTHERS may have some suggestions for you on this ... you may be able to get a little more room by moving the SC forward. Grab the SC pulley and use it for leverage ...rotate upwards and wiggle/jiggle/pull the SC towards the front of the car ... it is not going to move much with the EGR still attached but any amount will be appreciated ... trust me

9. You need to remove the vacuum tubes on the inlet plenum ... study them, mark them, draw a sketch, make them your friends, learn the middle names of their grandchildren ... the point being you need to put these back in the proper spot (5 to 10 minutes)

10. Now grab the snout/pulley in one hand and the back of the inlet plenum in the other, rotate the snout end up, wiggle/jiggle the SC out and away from the rubber coupling ... it is a little tight and it can catch on the fuel rails, take your time ...it is not heavy ... just watch the fuel rails and the ignition cables ... oh yea you need to remove the ignition cables going to the passenger side from the coil ... mark them and use dielectric grease when putting them back

11. When it comes time to put it back together, clean all bolt threads with a wire brush, use anti sieze on all threaded connections -- including the SC top collar & threads on the IC tube ... also, clean the bypass coupling connection on the inlet plenum with fine grit sand paper if needed (make sure to blow out any sand) ... then apply vasoline to the rubber coupler itself as this will make install much easier

12. Once the SC is off the car, remove the inlet plenum and SC top ... use orange rtv or loctite 518 to create these gaskets at install

YOU CAN DO THIS .... aside from that stupid EGR bolt this is not bad at all!!!

Good luck!
 
Thanks for quick responsing for everyone! :)

Yes, that's the stupid EGR which holding me back. The bolts are almost invisible!:eek:

Tomorrow I'm gonna show those bolts who are the master in the house...:D

I will also paint the valve covers and change the gasket, change the bigger injectors, change the fuel pressure regulator etc.

Just let you know because I think I have to come back here again...;)

Sami from Finland
 
Guys, you were right! It was EGR which was holding me back...:mad:

But now I managed to get the second bolt away.

One stupid question: where is fuel pressure regulator? I thought it was located behind the inlet plenum but I can't see it..!?

When I have removed the blower I will change the injectors, valve covers' gaskets and fuel pressure regulator.

What do you think is there something else worth doing while I'm so far!?!?:confused:
 
Sampo said:
One stupid question: where is fuel pressure regulator? I thought it was located behind the inlet plenum but I can't see it..!?

When I have removed the blower I will change the injectors, valve covers' gaskets and fuel pressure regulator.

What do you think is there something else worth doing while I'm so far!?!?:confused:

Sami... If you have the supercharger removed, the return plenum will also need to be removed to expose the FPR. It is attached to the rear portion of the fuel rail which is covered by the return plenum. The return plenum is removed by removing the 3 bolts that attach it to the intake manifold and the 2 bolts to the intercooler tube. Then to remove the FPR you will need to remove the 4 bolts that attach the fuel rail to the intake manifold and the 1 bolt that attaches the FPR to the rear of the drivers side head (another fun bolt to get to). After these bolts have been removed, gently pull up on the fuel rail and the rail with each injector will come loose.

Good luck

Bryan
 
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Thanks for the tips!

I quess I would had seen the regulator when I'll remove the outlet plenum. I would port it a little bit and give it some paint.

Still one question: how difficult is to adjust the regulator I mean how I will know the pressure is ok? Just when the idle is ok or what?!
 
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