Help! Stuck rear knuckle bolts ON BOTH SIDES...why? I dont get it.

CaifanSC

SCCoA Member
Im really confused here. My 89 has been through a good bunch of mods lately and my last thing to do was upgrading the rear pumpkin with 3.73's. When it came time to disconnect the halfshafts I decided to do what I did with my 94 when i changed gears...just remove the knuckle/halfshaft as a unit on both sides. I got the top bolt/nut out, the two lower nuts were a beast to get to...but I managed to get them out. Now, the problem is getting the two lower bolts out...the nuts are off adn teh bolt just spins...but it doenst come out!!! I've tried hammering, heating the crap out of the bolt, using a C clamp, and nothing...the bolt just seems to spin. It sounds like its just spinning in the rubber. AS far as I know the bushing is all rubber...so whats keeping the bolt from coming out???? I tried getting the bolts out on the other side, and teh same problem is there...whats up???


Any suggestions? I really dont want to remove the entire rear lower control arm..im thinking that i have to replace the knuckle bushings on one side since after trying prybars and torch the bushing seems to be crap now...but I dont want to make the job more labor intensive...i still have to put my 5.0 back on the road. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
I believe the lower bushings have steel sleeves in them, so the bolt is probably hanging up on those. Soak it good with penetrating oil and try banging on it as you try to get it out.
 
Yep, there are metal sleeves in the bushings. I had this same problem and nothing worked for me. My bolts had welded themselves to the sleeves! I had to cut all 4 bolts and push the bushings out of the knuckle. Not easy!

I replaced the bushings and got new bolts from the boneyard. I was able to pull those bolts out with my fingers! It's amazing that the cars in the junk yard are easier to work on than my own. Good luck man...I hope you have an easier time than I did.
 
I couldn't get access to the bolt with my sawzall so I cut the spindle off first. Got another one at the bone yard for $50.

Micah
 
:eek: aaaah crap...thats not good! So there's like no other tips other than try again with heat and if not...take desperate measures? Im thinking if this doesnt work then i'd try getting the entire lower control arm out, getting some aluminum mark 8 LCA's and new bushings....i was trying to avoid all that for a while until I can get my other car on the road.

Any other suggestions? Thanx a bunch everybody.
 
It's a pretty common problem that you'll find when working on suspensions especially in northern cars. I have yet to find a good solution to getting the bolt free from the bushing other than a lot of time, penetrating oil, and the use of a large hammer.
 
I agree with Kevin, but I also use some heat, IE a torch to heat up the bolt itself to try and free up the rust, but don't use heat and penetrating oil at the same time.
 
Unfortunately you can't get a air hammer in there. If you chould you could heat it and beat it with the air hammer. It would get it out, but the bolt would be trashed. You can pretty much bet that however you get it out, it's gonna stay trashed.

Heat with constant levered pressure might get it, but you'd need to make a tool to fit under the head of the bolt and apply even pressure out. heat the bolt, then try and get penetrating fluid into the barrel of the bushing while applying pressure. That might get it out.

But I haven't had much luck with something like that myself. in the end it's easier to drill it out, or cut it out and replace it with new hardware.
 
Even if you use the Mark 8 LCA's you will still need your knuckles right? So one way or another you'll need those bolts out. If constant heat/oil and such isn't working I'd say take the entire assembly out if you can. This way you can put it on a bench and cut the bolts.

I cut mine with a grinder while everything was on the car and laying on my back. I had an assistant get in there with a pry bar to gently widen the gap between the knuckle and LCA. I have a pretty steady hand so I was able to cut the bolts out on both sides in about 45 mins with out really hitting anything else.

Hopefully you can get em out with heat but it's hard cause you can't get a good swing on the bolts.


: Im thinking if this doesnt work then i'd try getting the entire lower control arm out, getting some aluminum mark 8 LCA's and new bushings....i was trying to avoid all that for a while until I can get my other car on the road.

Any other suggestions? Thanx a bunch everybody.
 
You might also want to put some shims between the sleeve and the edge of the control arm before you hit it. Otherwise, when you smack the head of the bolt, you are just moving it (and the sleeve) around in the rubber bushing. Which is why hammering on it is usually not effective in "breaking" it loose.

Micah
 
If you have the resources you can do what i did. I machined a little doohickey( doohickey can be of welded construction) that just kinda sat itself around a piece of the control arm, and had a threaded hole in it with a bolt through it, and pressed the bolt out of the bushing. Kinda like a pulley puller but home made. childs drawing attached.;)
 

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