Hey There, Folks,
Shortly after I posted this query, back in 2006, the car was unexpectedly re-mothballed, while the needs of my professional life took over -- no time whatsoever to fool with the 'Bird.
For reference -- this is a bone-stock 1990 SC 'Bird with a 5-speed stick, roughly 100,000 miles on the odometer -- car is equipped as it was from the factory, with the exception of the radio. No mods (yet . . . ).
Last month, pulled the 'Bird down off of the garage storage rack, unbundled from the tightly wrapped car cover, pumped up the tires. Paint is "dirty," but in good overall shape, especially when considering that it is 23-years old. Since I waxed the entire car before putting back into storage in 2006-2007, will clean up without too much effort -- tried a couple of random spots with a Mother's cleaner/wax product, and cleaned finish gleamed with a nice gloss.
Was not too excited with the thought of pulling the gas tank out of the car to drain it, or some other time-consuming method of removing the old gasoline from the tank, and wondered whether or not I could **possibly** get away with starting the car on 2006 gasoline (or varnish, at this point??) -- had about 1/2 of a tank showing.
Decided to give it a whirl, and dropped a whole can of Sea Foam into the tank, replaced the battery, checked out basic electrics, gauges, lights, fuel pump activity -- checked all of the fluid levels -- hydraulic clutch and brakes were a bit low, and dirty looking -- sucked all of the fluid out of the clutch master cylinder, replaced with fresh DOT 3, and bled the brakes until fluid was clean. Changed the oil and filter, topped off the power steering fluid.
Put a breaker-bar on front main pulley bolt, and hand-rotated the motor around several times, to assure that it was not stuck/frozen prior to starting -- motor turned very freely, with no perceptible drag or rough spots.
Prior to 2006 re-storage, radiator/cooling system was professionally flushed, and the manual 5-speed tranny was completely disassembled and necessary internal bearings/parts and seals replaced, along with new stock clutch disc, pressure plate and pilot bearing -- flywheel resurfaced.
Put the car up on the lift, and gave the bottom side an extensive visual inspection -- spent over an hour, just looking and prodding -- front and rear suspension bushings, body bushings, drive shaft and U-joints, any leakages from ANYTHING, end-links, ball joints and boots, rack dust boots, rear axle inner and outer dust boots -- all of the dust boots, with the exception of the front upper control arm ball joints, were in good shape, which is surprising considering that they are 1990 factory original -- poked and prodded them to be sure -- go figure -- inspected for rust issues on brake and fuel lines, none found -- noted that brake hoses, while intact, are looking dry and old -- will be replacing in near future. Emergency brake cable and linkages were rusty and stiff -- lubed with lithium grease to free them up -- will need to disassemble and properly remove rust and restore finished surfaces/replace some minor parts to restore full and free cable and linkage movements and spring retractions.
Virginia-only car, owned since new, driven once in the snow--ever tried to drive a torquey stick SC with a tight 2.73 posi and wide tires, on a snowy surface?? Gives a new definition and meaning to the phrase, "swapping ends . . ."
Exhaust system appears tight and intact, with no overt rust issues apparent.
Brake calipers were intact, but quite rusty in appearance, but all seemed to be working properly, despite extensive years of car sitting in storage -- they, too, are factory original. Brake pads/pucks are 1/2 worn, but appear acceptable. Disc rotors are solid rust on pad surfaces -- likely will drive the car a bit, and reinspect rotors and pads to see whether either rotors and/or pads will need replacement.
Hand-rotated each wheel, listening for noises -- front driver's side backing plate was rubbing a bit -- all wheel bearings seem silent in their movements, and rotate freely.
No chassis sheet metal rust to worry about, though a couple/four of the rear suspension bolt NUTS have rusted away to the point that I cannot get a socket or wrench on them that will fit, and will likely have to cut the bolts out with a zip disc cutter, and replace. Weird that only THOSE nuts are rusted -- everything else is in good shape, per se, including the sheet metal floor and rocker pans.
With everything looking "peachy," gave it a crank.
Starter motor turned over exactly 4 times, and the motor fired up -- had to pedal the gas, as the motor was stumbling and fussing -- after about 30-seconds, motor mostly cleared itself, and was able to idle almost perfectly smooth. Very minor puff of smoke on initial start, which cleared immediately -- no rattling or knocking noises from motor or accessories as I cold-started. Not bad for nearly six years of sitting idle.
Exhaust system is tight and quiet.
Drove it yesterday on its first 100 mile trip since it was parked in 2007 -- gotta love the cruise control, works very well -- had forgotten how "long-legged" the stick SC is, when cruising the highways -- just hums along with little effort or fuss.
Tires need to be replaced, obviously -- while tread is quite good, they are a bit lumpy and bumpy from sitting so long -- and the rubber is starting to crack because of drying over the years -- kept the speedo well under 65, just in case.
Noted the following issues:
1) end links will all need replacing.
2) front upper control arm ball joint dust boots will need replacing.
3) ABS light is lit on dash while running -- likely the accumulator is **dead** and will need replacing -- can hear the ABS charging motor running too long when first powered by putting key in run position -- though brakes work properly, and can stop the car RIGHT NOW, if needed -- just minus the assistance of the ABS system.
4) slight humming/whirring from electric fuel pump, though seems to work as expected -- will likely replace with high pressure version when I do gas tank conversion (with later model 'Bird tank version, which will allow the fitting of a larger after-market exhaust pipe without the extensive dog-leg path of 1990-style exhaust pipe) later this winter -- heated garages are your friend!
5) while speedometer works properly, neither mileage nor trip odometers are functioning -- looks like I need to rebuild with kit mentioned here, and about.
6) front passenger rotor will need replacement -- slight pedal pulsation when braking.
7) shocks have seen better days, and rear shock bushings are hard and clunky when going over minor bumps.
8) and THEN, we come to the original subject of this thread -- leaking valve cover gaskets -- which do not "get better" with age -- uhhg, what a mess -- slight drips that fall onto hot exhaust pipe, producing a minor smoke cloud while waiting at stop-lights, which also gets sucked into the passenger cabin via heater fan with "wonderful" aromatic consequences for occupants -- is there ANY way to shut down the external air intakes, and have the car HVAC system draw its air from INSIDE the cabin, ONLY? Have just realized that there is NO recirculate function apparent on HVAC cabin controls.
Hope this blurb was informative, as it were, describing the trials and travails of long term storage of an SC automobile.
Valve cover gaskets are next -- going to be a bit of a knuckle-breaker, as we all know. Will replace spark plugs and wires at the same time, as well as any rubber hoses -- heater hoses, vacuum hoses, other rubber hoses encountered and accessable while top-side of motor is dissassembled, since all rubber hoses are original. Also will drain and replenish the supercharger lubricant while off of the car.
Edited to add -- thanks for all of the above advice -- you folks are helpful!
Carry On!
Cammer