Radiator replacement

Kit Sullivan

Registered User
How difficult is it to replace the radiator in a 90 SC? It appears that the IC and the IC tubes need to comer off to get access to the bracket. Is that right? I sure hope not.
 
The radiator can be removed without removing the IC tubes. It's been a while but I think there are 2 bolts holding it in.

upper and lower hoses
(transmission fittings (if auto)
2 bolts
That should do it.
After you replace it, don't forget to burp it.
 
It appears there is a bracket that is welded to the top of the radiator that the IC rubber boot is pressed up against. I can't see hwo to get this loose without removing the IC. Maybe I'm not looking at it correctly.
 
The radiator can be removed w/o disturbing the intercooler and tubes. Just removed the two screws that attach the boot to the intercooler.
Mike
 
OK, I think I see how: The two bolts are attached to the leading edge of the IC and hold the boot on, right? Then by removing the two radiator hold-down bolts, the entire radiator/bracket/fan/IC boot can be lifted out as an assembly, and then simply transfer everything to the new radiator before installing it. Yeah?
 
There are also two clips holding the rubber boot to the IC at the bottom. You should make sure those are loose before proceeding. Once you get the rad out you will see the push pins holding the boot to the rad support. You may want some new push pins, since those could get messed upon removal.

Also, if you need new belts this would be an ideal replacement time since the lower rad hose must normally be removed to replace one of the belts.
 
Is removal the same for '95 Birds?
Why are you changing your radiator?
I need to change mine. My SC runs really, really,really HOT. Even on cool days.
Any suggestions on a better radiator?
 
well 89-93 radiators are a little better than the 94-95s since the 94-95s have the plastic endtanks where as the early ones were brass
 
I have a 1990 SC. When I pulled the engine ,along time ago now, I took the radiator to a local shop and had it made into a 3 core. It was a lot cheaper than some of the fancy ones out there $240 if I remember right. If you are going to run a front mount or air conditioning it sure couldnt hurt.
 
Could my overheating problem be something other than an insufficient radiator.
I did flush it and put some H20 wetter in when I refilled it. It seemed to help a little, but not enough.
 
Is there a significant performance reason that a down-flow radiator was used in the SC, when a cross-flow style is used in all the other 'Birds and nearly every other type of vehicle?
 
Could my overheating problem be something other than an insufficient radiator.

It could be a bad radiator cap or a bad thermostat. If you have a FMIC or underdrive pulleys with a lot of city driving, it could be a factor. A front air dam makes quite a bit of difference for about 10 bucks (GM air dam).

Does it always run hot? what are the symptoms?
 
First of all, Sorry Kit Sullivan, I did not mean to take over your thread. I really just wanted know the reason why you were changing radiators, (if maybe you were having the same problems as me). In response to your question, Fred, the engine is completly stock, it is a 5spd, if that matters. It always runs hot. The thermo guage gets up to (& past) the M in NORM. Generally stays around the M. The radiator overflow boils sometimes & even overflows.
I don't know what temperature my thermostat is but I can tell it's opening when the guage gets around the M. Probably not much help in diagnosing anything, but it's a start.:rolleyes:
Jim
 
I replaced it mostly because it was looking a little 'green' on some of the fins, so I figured some serious leaks and such aren't too far coming.
Plus, with the age of the thing(17 years and going!) It was probably a safe bet that it wasn't flowing or cooling as well as it did when new.
So, for only $100, I bought an over-seas replacement (all metal, though!) and it fit like a glove!
While I was at it I replaced all the belts with some good 'Dayco Top-Cogs', all new hoses (with a wire in the lower!) and clamps and such.
The car is noticeably cooler now, and stays at a constant temp instead of going up and down as it did previously.

I am very concerned about this 'overheating and bad head hasket thing' I have been reading about here.
I have only had the car about a month or so, so I'm doing the 'catch up' thing with all the specific little details about these cars that trouble them.
I am actually pretty close to being paranoid to even drive the thing until I get the exhuast replaced with the cat-less down tubes and cat-back system.
I have been driving it daily for about 2 weeks now, but I rarely let it ever get over about 5 lbs of boost on the gauge. That takes a real light foot. Mostly, I try to keep it totally out of boost.
Every day it seems I find another annoying little detail that the previous owner neglected. I spend a couple hours searching these forums learning stuff, a few minutes fixing it...and the car just keeps running better and better!
Right now I am suspecting that I will replace the motor mounts, for the idle is not as smooth as I think it should be. The motor doesn't 'jump' in the engine compartment, but they are 17 yeats old, right? What can it hurt?
 
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