Click no start...(not batt. or alternator)

ThePikey

Registered User
Wife drove the SC home from work today with no problems. We went to go out later. after putting the kid in the car (lights on, not dim.) Went to start the car, and as i turned the key... everything died!!!

came back home a few hours later... hooked the battery charger up to the battery, lights came up but dim... turned it over to the 200amp power start... and an electrical box on the radiator support next to the air filter is clicking and making all sorts of funny noises... PLUS the fan turns on.. went to start the car and it just clicks. the shift light is on, plus every other light on the dash.

i would have searched the forum for this, but i have no idea what kind of gremlin im chasing. HELP PLEASE!
 
been there done that... that was one of the first things i checked.

im really thinking it has to do with the box (electrical) on the radiator support
 
could also be the starter switch...the little thing on the driver fender.

first make sure everything is tight, then test from there.
 
not the selenoid....

there may be a few details i left out...

when i hooked the batt charger up to the car and put it up on 200a... the lights became bright as all get out... first thought was the voltage regulator... but the VR is integrated into the alternator..

like i said... i really think its the box behind the rad support by the air filter.. but i need to know what this box does.

EDIT: ok to make things more intresting... went back out after an hour to get the keys out cuz i left them in the ignition... and figured what the heck.. i started the car and it started right up. so i figured i shut it off and tried it again. then the same thing... clicks and EVERYTHING GOES DEAD!
 
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Had the same thing happen and it turned out to be the small wire that attaches to the starter. It has a spade style connection and if it gets a little loose (usually from something on the road hitting it) it does exactly what your describing. Remove the wire, give the female connector a little squeeze with pliers and reinstall it.

David
 
Had the same thing happen and it turned out to be the small wire that attaches to the starter. It has a spade style connection and if it gets a little loose (usually from something on the road hitting it) it does exactly what your describing. Remove the wire, give the female connector a little squeeze with pliers and reinstall it.

David

ill try that first thing in the morning! too cold and wet out there right now thanks to the snow and ice from last week!

only thing i see wrong with your idea is, why does the whole car go electrically dead afterwards?
 
1130p went out to have a cig... and tried to start the car for smiles and giggles.. and nothing. but when i let my foot off the brake, there was a clicking noise from inside the kick panel. and after a moment or 2 the alarm light (aftermarket) on the dash begins blinking. but when i put my foot on the brake, the light goes out.
 
The clicking noise when on the brakes is probably the park interlock. I had a bad solenoid do exactly that to me. Just because it clicks doesn't mean its working. Solenoid is 10 bucks, ignition switch is 10 bucks, and the rest is either wires or a starter. can you use a screwdriver to jump the solenoid posts and make it crank? That would eliminate a bad starter....
 
I would check to make sure that the battery terminals are "clean" and tight. If you get any corrosion in between the battery post and the terminal it can cause the condition you have.
 
I would check to make sure that the battery terminals are "clean" and tight. If you get any corrosion in between the battery post and the terminal it can cause the condition you have.

The IRCM has nothing to do with starting. You have a major power loss due to a bad connection either power or ground. Do as suggested above and start by removing the battery cables from the battery and cleaning the posts and clamps. If the clamps are damaged then replace them. If you still have problems start looking at the other ends of the cables. You may need new cables if they are badly corroded at either end.
 
You should check your alternator connections. It's simple and fast and can eliminate the fact that one may have completely shorted out.

I know, because my SC is grounded right now with a very similar issue.

Check all connections to the alternator. Mine was the "big" wire on the lower back of the alternator. It had shorted out there and is completely severed. In addition from speaking with some service tech, they could also rub through along the inner fenderwell. That would be another (more difficult) place to check. Those both will cause a major loss in electricity and could cause some of the things you are noticing.

My SC didn't exhibit some of the same things like yours, but one moment it would start fine but 10 minutes later it wouldn't start at all.

The fix for this is unfortunately, not as easy as if you see they are broken. It is part of the main wiring harness, which is obsolete from Ford and not available at all in the aftermarket world. I hope you don't have the same problem that I have now, because it is a pain to fix. This is an easy check though as it will be obvious if it shorted out like mine. Good luck!
 
battery connections all were clean... i think ive found a big part of the issue. I called the local Autozone this morning to ask what is the proper size battery for the SC. the goofball says its supposed to be 850cca. well the battery in the car was only a 525, and with the recent cold snap it makes some sense. so i pulled the battery out of the taurus which was an 875cca, and the car started right up with no problems. the wife drove the car all day with no problems (about 8-10 starts and stops)

i still think there is a gremlin lurking in the electrical system though.

I did also change the positive cable when i came home from work after noticing a good size crack in the connector

PS: All suggestions have been greatly appreciated
 
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