Oh No my 35th got sick and won't stay running.

Mike Puckett

SCCoA Member
I was on the way back to work and all of a sudden it started running rough about a half mile from the office when I accelerated around a slow van. It ran a bit rough and stalled when I got into the parking lot but it started right back up and I got to my parking spot Ok. Now it'll crank and start up but I have to keep goosing the gas pedal to keep it running, sort of like a bad vacuum leak. Nothing looks amiss under the hood. When I crank it, it starts right up but won't idle and the engines dies with a hard shudder. I had to leave it in the parking lot and get a ride home. I'll go back tomorrow and run the codes and get towed home if necessary. I've got no way to work on it or check anything but the code reader at the office park. Plus, it's butt freezing cold out there, going down to the low 20's tonight.
 
hmmmm.... crank sensor wouldn't let it start right back up. Maybe DIS module, but those usually make it run like it's only on 3 cyl, and sometimes comes and goes.

How old is the fuel pump and filter? Have you verified fuel pressure?

It's probably going to be either fuel or ignition related. I doubt you have choked off the air supply.

Have you checked the balancer?
 
The first thing I did was feel for the bolt head and it was there. I guess it's possible that the balancer broke and turned but the bolt hasn't broke off yet. One of the local SCer's here suggested to check fuel pressure and is going to loan me his gauge. I've got a spare fuel pump and filter. I also wondered about the DIS, I've got a spare. It's like something popped off or let go when I kicked the gas pedal. I need to get it into the garage so I can check up under the car so I think I'll just get it towed tonight. I just hope I've got a spare of whatever is wrong.
 
When my balancer broke the bolt was fine. I had to use an impact to remove it. But then the balancer just fell off and the hub of it was still pressed around the crank.

I had put a fuel press. gauge on and it held 40 psi with the key on. I knew it was something ignition related.

I swapped a spare dis first, no difference, would crank but not start. Then I put another coil pack on. No difference. The cam sensor was only a year old and wouldn't affect it starting if you crank it and stop and crank it again a few times, it can eventually guess the firing order but you will have no tach.

The crank sensor will die when warm and not work until the car cools.

If you have fuel pressure, and it won't run, pull a plug and check for spark.

If the balancer cracked and slipped it will be so far off time it won't run.
 
IACV maybe?

It could be the IACV (idel air control valve) If it starts just fine but won't stay running it could be that the IACV isn't opening properly. it is mounted on the side of the throttle body and can cause a rough idel or cause the car to not stay running unless you keep giving it gas. a way to check for this is to use something to shim the throttlebody open just a little. and then start the car. Does it stay running then? If yes then you may want to start there before going into the ignition or fuel issues. if you do that test and the car still cuts off I would start with the Fuel system trouble shootingfirst. Then move to possible ignition issues.
 
I got it towed home yesterday and have it in the garage now. Once I get some heat in there I'll start checking it out. We are thinking balancer now especially since it happened when I punched the gas pedal and it's had a slight wobble for awhile. Rick told me he's seen them broken and still bolted, also. It doesn't stall from lack of fuel, it's got an obvious timing problem, popping and jerking and blowing black smoke when it tries to idle. I swapped out the DIS so I know it's not that and the tach is working so it's probably not the cam sensor. I do have a spare balancer and crank sensor. Apparently, Ford has stopped making them again.
 
Usually when the cam sensor goes bad you lose the tach signal but the balancer is definitely broken. The bolt was only finger tight and apparently the guy who last replaced it never torqued it down. The balancer is lose but I'll need a puller to get it off. It's lose but not enough to just yank it off. I hope I can get the back of the broken hub off the crank end. It's broke right at the seal.
 
I had to pry the seal out and then drill into the broken piece to get it off. Real pain in the you know what.

Good luck.

I got my new crank sensor from Auto Zone and it works fine. I am running a bhj balancer, new timing cover front seal, and AZ crank sensor. I got a new bolt hardened bolt from Paul at BTM.
 
I was just wondering how I'm going to get those off. I'm getting too old to do this kind of stuff. At least I've got a loaner car to drive as this could take me awhile. I'm going to order me a BHJ tomorrow.
 
Mine was down for 3 months till I got it all done and collected all the parts.

I went ahead and ordered a set of underdrives from supercoupe performance because they are zero balanced.

If you keep your stock crank pulley, take it to a machine shop and have it zero balanced.
 
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