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badfreakinbird
12-11-2006, 02:56 PM
I was driving my new SC 93 5 speed to work this morning and I noticed that it was lacking its normal strength. It is as if it was only working on 3 cylinders. and the engine got real hot real fast. very little power on take off. I got to work and opened up the hood becouse I saw a little smoke. and the exhaust manifold was red hot Has any one else had this problem? I just changed out my stock pipes for a flowmaster resonator and catback system I also went catless and kept the stock manifolds. car was Idleing funny last week and had some starting issues but I replaced The IAC and the Cam sensor and it was riding ok till the powerloss today. I actually noticed it yesterday but I only went to the store and back. Any advive is much appreciated.

Isiah M

90coug
12-11-2006, 04:35 PM
I'd work backward from everything you've done so far.

David Neibert
12-11-2006, 05:03 PM
I was driving my new SC 93 5 speed to work this morning and I noticed that it was lacking its normal strength. It is as if it was only working on 3 cylinders. and the engine got real hot real fast. very little power on take off. I got to work and opened up the hood becouse I saw a little smoke. and the exhaust manifold was red hot Has any one else had this problem? I just changed out my stock pipes for a flowmaster resonator and catback system I also went catless and kept the stock manifolds. car was Idleing funny last week and had some starting issues but I replaced The IAC and the Cam sensor and it was riding ok till the powerloss today. I actually noticed it yesterday but I only went to the store and back. Any advive is much appreciated.

Isiah M

Were the exhaust manifolds actually glowing red/orange....one side only or both ?

When you say the car got hot real quick, are you talking about coolant temp ?

David

badfreakinbird
12-11-2006, 05:48 PM
Yes the drivers side manifold was glowing orange. and I was talking about temp gauge in dash. I also apparently have a vacuum leak cause vac at idle is 11. I turned the car on on my break and it turned right on but the strength is not there. takes forever to get to 30 miles an hour and if its uphill its worse.

CMac89
12-11-2006, 06:20 PM
Since you have a glowing exhaust manifold I am going to say it is a fuel problem. Clogged up fuel filter or a bad fuel pressure regulator are your biggest possibilities. I suggest you check the fuel pressure first.

Are there actually cylinders not firing or do you say it just feels like it? There's a huge difference in sound whenever even one cylinder isn't firing and if it is more than one missing out, it won't run.

Stay out of boost if the exhaust manifolds are getting that hot.

ThunderDave
12-11-2006, 06:37 PM
Couldn't the glowing exhaust manifold be caused by a timing issue? Shouldn't he check the balancer as well, since it is showing signs of lost power? Check the coilpack too. If a coil goes out, it will drop two cylinders.

badfreakinbird
12-11-2006, 06:44 PM
I was leaning towards a fuel problem.Does anyone know where the fuel pressure regulator is? I bought this car about 3 weeks ago and it had been sitting for 2 years I replaced the fuel filter,oil,plugs,wires,air filter,trans flush,thermostat 180,coolant temp sensor, exhaust minus the stock manifolds.

ThunderDave
12-11-2006, 06:52 PM
the FPR is behind the return plenum. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail to check the pressure. 35-40 psi at idle is sufficient. Pressure should increase one psi per 1 lb. of boost. On leak down, it should hold pressure for about 15 minutes before it starts to drop.


http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50353&highlight=glowing+exhaust+manifold

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28866&highlight=glowing+exhaust+manifold

This one is kinda long, but his problem was O2 sensors were bad and he needed an IAC. You can try unplugging the O2 sensors and see how it does like that.

badfreakinbird
12-11-2006, 06:57 PM
So Tommorow I will check the coil pack and the FPR hope that solves this.Also can the FPR be cleaned out or should I just replace it? Let me know if there is anything else I should check. hope I can make it home its only about 5 miles. Thanks guys ill keep you updated.

racecougar
12-11-2006, 07:44 PM
I also apparently have a vacuum leak cause vac at idle is 11.

That would have a lot to do with the symptoms you've described.

-Rod

badfreakinbird
12-12-2006, 11:08 AM
OK I took a look at the FPR this morning and saw that the hose that is connected to the top of the FPR was not connected to the Plenium. I connected it but my manifold is still GLOWING RED after about 5 min. How should I check my coil pack?

ThunderDave
12-12-2006, 06:45 PM
Check the coilpack by pulling wires off one at a time to see if it makes a difference in how the motor runs. You can check for vacuum leaks with propane or carb cleaner. The idle will go up when a leak is detected. Did you unplug the O2s yet to see if that made a difference?

badfreakinbird
12-12-2006, 09:04 PM
Well since im on vacation all month I decided that I would take apart the top end and put it all back togethr since my valve covers have a leak. I will also change out my fuel filter FPR and filter, coil pack for one of those screamin demons.

David Neibert
12-12-2006, 11:17 PM
Suggest pulling the spark plugs on the side that is getting hot. Since the FPR was unplugged it most likely went very lean and probably burnt the ground straps off the plugs. That could explain why raw fuel is getting into the exhaust manifold and burning there causing it to glow.

If they are indeed damaged, change the other side too.

David

PS: You should have been getting a check engine light because of a lean and rich condition.....did you ?

bybowtie
12-12-2006, 11:25 PM
vacuum leak is the likely culprit. Had it happen on my 88 sport.

badfreakinbird
12-14-2006, 02:54 PM
No check engine light at all. just started noticing that the car wasnt moving/no power takes like 20 seconds to get to 30 miles an hour. Anyways I tore down the top end and Ive already found 3 vacuum leaks which Ive fixed and my sc pipes were loose so Ill make sure they are nice and tight when put it all back together. Valve covers gaskets need replacing so Ill do that today. I didnt think of checking the plugs. will do that before putting everything back together.when you guys say run the car without o2 sensors, Am I to cap the holes or run it without capping them?

ThunderDave
12-14-2006, 03:12 PM
Just unplug the O2s at the wiring connector.

badfreakinbird
12-14-2006, 03:20 PM
that was a stupid question thanks

89SCK@t
12-14-2006, 04:02 PM
No question is dumb.

Sorry about not getting back to you sooner, I have been working. If you still need those parts let me know. I can try and stop by my storage place today and pull them out.

badfreakinbird
12-25-2006, 10:36 PM
Ok Im still having the glowing manifold problem. Ive changed the Fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter,255 fuel pump,Screamin demon coil pack, and swaped out dis modules. Off subject ,I rebuilt the SC nose and changed out Diff bushings which fixed the cluncking sound when I shift. I will unplug my O2 sensors tommorow and check plugs but none of this has fixed the Glowing Manifolds or the lost power. My VAC is at 10 at Idle and I cand find the leak.We tryed spraying starting fluid neer the firewall and no change . Other than the O2s and the plugs what else can I check? I have no Cats. new plugs, new IAC and new cam sensor.

racecougar
12-26-2006, 01:41 AM
You definitely still have a pretty decent vacuum leak if it's only pulling 10 inches at idle. The vacuum leak would cause the glowing manifolds, as it would lean out the A/F ratio significantly.

-Rod

badfreakinbird
12-26-2006, 11:31 AM
I cant find the leak,I tried spraying starter fluid all over the place and it didnt make any differance. Talked to a friend that has two SCs and he said that it is probably my computer and that he will come by and check this tonight. I said this will still leave the vac leak what other method can I use to check this?

95MTSC
12-26-2006, 11:39 AM
.....this will still leave the vac leak what other method can I use to check this?

Another method (if it hasn't already been mentioned) is to use a section of hose a couple of feet long (something of medium diameter like fuel line hose works well) and put one end up next to your ear, and take the other end and move it around different areas under the hood that you might expect vacuum leaks to be, like sc top, intercooler piping, vac hoses everywhere, etc. If you come across a vacuum leak while doing this, you'll most likely hear a hissing or whistling sound on the other end of your "stethoscope" hose. Of course be careful as this test is done with the engine running, so watch out for the belts and the usual precautions ;)

badfreakinbird
12-27-2006, 12:40 AM
Im all out of Ideas had a friend come over to check things out took about 20 min to get the car started and when it did you couldnt really rev the engine cause it sounded like crap Vac is at like 8 or 9 know and I cant find the leak. my friend checked to see if it was the computer and that was not it. He thinks its a head gasket but Im not seeing any smoke come out the back. I guess im gonna toe it to a shop to diagnose and if it is a HG then Im gonna fix it myself. Is it possible the hg blew and there be no smoke and oil is still ok?

thunderkid84
12-27-2006, 09:20 AM
did u ever change out the O2 sensors ? when u did your plug and wire change did u make sure u hooked wires 4,5 and 6 up to the coil pack right ? i did this and my cats were glowing red. all the air and fuel that didnt burn in the cylinder was burning in the cat. the wires on the coil pack go

1-2-3
5-6-4

just double and triple check that, good luck

anejr
12-27-2006, 09:23 AM
Im all out of Ideas...

Have you run a compression test on this engine?

--Al Evans

badfreakinbird
12-27-2006, 10:16 AM
Checked plugs and wires They were OK. Seems that the manifolds only glow when the car is driven for about 5 min. But know the Vac is under 10 and we cant find the leak and it idles so bad that I cant even drive it. Itll get to the shop today or tommorow.

factoryblue
12-27-2006, 12:02 PM
The vacuum issue probilbly isnt a leak. If running super rich your vac will read low. If it idles okay and or at least is consistantly i'd keep looking for fuel issues. I beleive these cars have map sensors that run off vac signals. (not sure, i've only owned this car for 9 years) I wouldn't worry about the HG's at this point.

Nick

SuperChicken89
12-27-2006, 01:22 PM
Have you checked the timing? It may be a bad harmonic damper causing a timing issue. This could cause these symptoms... lack of power, hard starting, and possible glowing manifold/cat.

Good luck

Bryan

badfreakinbird
12-27-2006, 02:09 PM
Took the car to a shop down the street and had it checked out HG is are blown guy wants $1000. Gonna get the car home tonight and start tearing it all down. I have a friend who has changed the Hgs on both of his birds, So I think im in good hands. and he will do it with my help cheap. Hope to have her running again by this weekend. THIS SUCKS!

factoryblue
12-27-2006, 02:24 PM
1,000 for HG's. I seriously need to open a shop. Glad you figured it out.

Nick

ThunderDave
12-27-2006, 06:07 PM
I think that price would be about right, considering the labor involved.

badfreakinbird
12-29-2006, 01:12 AM
My friend Just got done taking the heads off took him 3 hours he didnt even want help says that he has done this about 4 times. My question is How much is fair amount to pay at a machine shop for the head work?

89SCK@t
12-29-2006, 01:23 AM
I dont know about the whole shabang, but when I was at Midas, we sent heads to Napa. They charged us 280 rebuild the heads, check em, and mill them. Just to mill they said it was going to be 45 a head. The heads I sent to them were LT1 280, 2.2 toy 145, 3.1 GM 195...not bad...

badfreakinbird
12-29-2006, 01:25 AM
What was the turnaround time ?

89SCK@t
12-29-2006, 12:31 PM
a day or two...just dependent on their workload.

txsc
12-29-2006, 03:17 PM
Let me know if you need any factory information when going back together. I have Factory Service Manuals for '89, '90, '91 & '95. Also the two-volume parts manuals for '89 & '91. And wiring and vacuum schematics for '89 & '90. I can shoot you copies of anything you need. I'm out toward Schertz.

Good Luck,

JD

PS: While you have the heads off, do the motor mounts right away if they haven't already been changed. This is your opportunity to do it the EASY way. - JD

89SCK@t
12-29-2006, 06:51 PM
and headers...*hint*:D

badfreakinbird
12-30-2006, 01:36 PM
Thanks TXSC i got all the specs and Im doing the motor mounts right know great idea I would have forgotten to change those. And 89SCK@t id take those Headers off you but im short on cash gimme a call mabe we can work somthing out.

89SCK@t
12-30-2006, 02:04 PM
get the mounts from napa. they are like 35 a piece...and solid.

badfreakinbird
12-30-2006, 03:04 PM
I already put them on just cleaning heads and engine while I wait for my friend to come over tonight.