That really is one of the nicer FMIC install that I have seen people do. Nice work
Ken
Wow, Ken, thanks. That's quite a compliment coming form you, as I consider your work in your engine compartment to be the defacto best in this club. Some of the best I've seen period.
I'm not trying to hijack Slipknot's thread, but how thick is that flat bar you made your Strut tower brace out of? I was inspired by yours and am looking at a piece of flat bar on eBay.
Thank you again!
They are a perfect size of an intercooler. My car has a 24x12x4 core size, which is 31" end to end.
On a 50 degree day my intake temperatures were 51 degrees. You can romp on this intercooler for fifteen minutes straight and only the first third half of the intercooler is hot. Everything else feels like you haven't run it. The more surface area for cooling you have with a FMIC the cooler the intake temperatures will be.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72229&highlight=finished+fmic
There are pictures in that thread of my setup.
Nice work, Daspanka.
I built a FMIC for mine also and didnt see a lag in throttle response. I beleive I dropped a little on boost due to less restriction from the stock IC. Every mod you do seems to have an effect somewhere else besides just performace. A FMIC will affect the air flow goin to the radiator. One of the first things I did before the FMIC was install a griffen radiator since I had read that these cars seem to run a little hot. I also installed a 180 degree thermostat and had my chip burned to bring the fan on line at the lower temp.
The alum bar is 21/4"x3/8" thick. It was a scrap piece of material from my material rack. If I had to do it over I would have made it out of something a little less wide, like 2" max. I had it chromed to keep from having to polish it out all the time
Ken
nice pics everyone...Where do you guys get your pipes?? ebay specials also??I have seen the kits,just seems wierd to spend more for pipes than my intercooler..lol
Yes, the piping will be the most expensive part of the project. Even worse, you really, really want to ditch the rubber couplers that come with the kits and buy silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps. At the very least use a good silcone coupler where you hook up to the blower top and the hot side of the IC. This spot can see 400 degrees occasionally and the silcone's are made to stand up to it. I spent $125 on the piping kit, then another $130 or so on silcone couplers and t-bolt clamps. There's a vendor on eBay that will throw in free t-bolts with his couplers if you search. Here's my piping kit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAN...3QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
All of the couplers, even $20 ea silicone, will try to collapse a bit under vacum. The rubber couplers may eventually deform and lose their shape. Several guys have had boost/vacum leaks from the rubber couplers after they heat up a few times, even when they tighten the bejesus out of them.
if you cut your pipe sections to fit snug together you don't have to worry about connector collapse.