oil ?

92sclikenew

92sclikenew

Registered User
what can cause your oil to get so thin like water(not water in oil) .it seems very thin and i put in 10-W40 oil also has about 2500miles on it so yea its time for a change.:rolleyes: but what is some good oil to use and is synthetic a must .
 
Any name-brand of oil is good, really. Even some of the store-branded stuff is OK. Like Pep-Boys oil and Wal-Mart's 'Super-Tech', which(depending on viscosity and region) is sourced from several suppliers, icluding Quaker-State, Coastal/Unilube and Superior Lubricants...all quality manufacturers.
Advance Auto Parts-branded oil is actually a Coastal/Unilube product, which is also sold under the 'Coastal' name at Auto-Zone.
As long as you change the oil frequently (3000-5000 miles), you will have no oil-related problem.

For your Super Coupe, you should not use 10W-40. That is a little too viscous for this engine...assuming that your engine is in relatively good shape and does not burn a lot of oil.
Stick with 10W-30 in southern climes, and possibly 5W-30 in really cold northern climates.

Thinned-out oil at low mileage is usually the result of gasoline dilution, but that is pretty rare now-a-days whith fuel injection having replaced carburetors. Maybe you have a fuel-related issue.

In all repsects, full synthetic oil is vastly superior to any conventional 'dino' oil and you will recive benifits from using it. But it is usually 2-3 times the cost of dino, so only you can decide if it is cost effective for yourself or not.
If you plan on keeping your car a long time and want to keep the engine in the best shape internally as you can, go synthetic. If you know you are going to be selling it sometime down the road...why waste the money? Let the next guy spend it!
 
i normally run valvoline full synthetic 10W30, mine is only driven from May-October under 2000 miles a year. You can run 10W30 if you are driving in the winter. I have seen alot of people running Mobile 1 15W50 in the summer. Make sure you run a good filter also, I always run Motorcraft
 
well guys im gonna do an oil change today.see what happens after.now if ther was fuel in the oil it would burn if i put a flame to it right.:D or how could i tell.
 
92sclikenew said:
well guys im gonna do an oil change today.see what happens after.now if ther was fuel in the oil it would burn if i put a flame to it right.:D or how could i tell.
Click to expand...

Castrol 20w50 here year around.
The way you cantell if you have gas in your oil is to get a paper towel or any piece of pa per and pull you dipsick out and put a dab on the paper. If the spot separates and runs away fom the middle then chances are youve got some fuel in the oil. Thats and old diesel trick that does work on gas as well.



S
 
In a stock engine with no internal problems, I would recommend that you never use 20W-50, regardless or where you live or the temperature. That heavy viscosity uses more fuel, creates more emissions, produces less power and creates more heat...all the stuff you don't want.
The lightest-weight oil you can use and still get the required protection is what you want. The old axiom of 'thicker is better' is so outdated that it is amazing there are still those who cling to that idea.
 
I guess it boils down to personall preferences. I believe this has been discussed in depth before here on the board.
As to the heavy weight oil, I have used it for many years with no troubles in several types of motors and "personally" I like the results, but thats just my opinion and you know how that goes.
Back to the original question, the trick I described is jut a cheap way to check for gas in the oil without going to the expense of sending a sample out to get it analized. Of course the sniff test works in real bad situations too. Hopefully its not that bad.

S
 
ok i did my oil change oil was just dirty has good oil pressure again and all the oil seemed really thin almost like water ,ther was no milky look (coolent because i thought i might have had bad hg's). and i put in 10w-30 this time castol thats what i have used befour. but 2 oil changes ago i was using the factory specs 5w-20 and never had any probs maybe i should go back:confused: . i dont know what you guys thinking .;)





ALSO SO IF IT MATTERS THE CAR IS A 92 AND HAS 104*** OR SO MILES
 
Last edited:
i think factory spec is 5W-30, not 5w 20. I really hope you didn't run that low of a viscosity, you should run minimum of 10w-30 with a motor with 100k on it. 5w20 is like water when it is brand new.
 
rzimmerl said:
i think factory spec is 5W-30, not 5w 20. I really hope you didn't run that low of a viscosity, you should run minimum of 10w-30 with a motor with 100k on it. 5w20 is like water when it is brand new.
Click to expand...

ok if the factory spec is 5w-30 that what i use sorry im just not lookin at the book right now yea it was like water so that why i changed to a thicker oil. even tho ther was not oil probs befour but yea the car has over 100000miles bearly but it dose. and today i put in 10w-30 and the oil pressure was great never droped a hair.
 
92sclikenew said:
wow thats some think oil . you say that would be fine in a stock sc. well mostly stock has no mufflers or resonater and has a cold air intake.
Click to expand...

I use it to keep from killing my rod bearings. The motor is making about 2.5 times the power it did when it was stock (without nitrous). I don't mind giving up some HP for the added protection.

On a motor that's mostly stock I would use whatever the owner's manual suggest.

David
 
David Neibert said:
I use it to keep from killing my rod bearings. The motor is making about 2.5 times the power it did when it was stock (without nitrous). I don't mind giving up some HP for the added protection.

On a motor that's mostly stock I would use whatever the owner's manual suggest.

David
Click to expand...

really isnt thats a thin weight tho. for 105,000miles
 
Good Choice

David Neibert said:
I use it to keep from killing my rod bearings. The motor is making about 2.5 times the power it did when it was stock (without nitrous). I don't mind giving up some HP for the added protection.

On a motor that's mostly stock I would use whatever the owner's manual suggest.

David
Click to expand...
MANY OF THE HOT ROD MAGS HAVE WRITTEN THIS VERY PROBLEM :eek: IT,S DONE TO GET MORE HP AND MILEAGE BUT THE BEARING SUFFER .....I FACT MORE WEAR ADDITIVES WILL BE GONE IN 2007:mad: ONLY A FEW RACING OILS WILL HAVE THEM :cool: ZINC PHOROUS, ALL DIESEL OIL 15-40 HAS IT;) I USE ROYAL PURPLE 15-40 FOR BETTER PROTECION ALL FLAT TAPPETS WILL WEAR VERY FAST:( DO THE RESEARCH :D
 
2007? Actually the content of ZDDP (zincdiakyldithiophasphate) was lowered by 30% in 2005 for the then-new 'GF-4' specification. This lowered amount of zinc-compounds has indeed caused excessive wear on older flat-tappet style valvetrains and other high-performance engines (read: non-stock). The lowered ZDDP was to protect catalytic converters from contamination now that they are designed for 150K, as opposed to the previous 50K life-span.
'GF-5' spec oil is slated to come on board by 2009, with an additional 20% reduction of Zinc compounds.
ZDDP-type additves are valve-train EP lubricatns, but long-term exposure to them contaminates catalytic converters.
Diesel oils typically have a higher zinc/phosphorous %, and extra detergents too, but they can lead to some serious spark-plug fouling...no fun changing plugs every 20,000 in a super coupe, right?

5W-20 is not adequate for these engines, but there is hardly an engine out there that needs anything more viscous than 10W-30, except for some full-blown race engines and such.
My 500-horse 429 Cobra Jet has been running on Mobil 1 10W-30 for years, and it runs better than ever.
 
Kit, was that motor running a blower?

You should see the bearings on these motors even after 20000 miles..... especially the front bearing.

Several people here have already proven that on higher mileage motors its safer to run the heavier oil because the bearing clearances are that much greater due to wear.

You could be giving advice on sticking with that very light oil on a worn down motor that could get that guy stuck out in the middle of no where with a spun bearing.

Remember, this is a blown application, and alot of the ole rules change cause of that.
 
ThunderRoad said:
MANY OF THE HOT ROD MAGS HAVE WRITTEN THIS VERY PROBLEM :eek: IT,S DONE TO GET MORE HP AND MILEAGE BUT THE BEARING SUFFER .....I FACT MORE WEAR ADDITIVES WILL BE GONE IN 2007:mad: ONLY A FEW RACING OILS WILL HAVE THEM :cool: ZINC PHOROUS, ALL DIESEL OIL 15-40 HAS IT;) I USE ROYAL PURPLE 15-40 FOR BETTER PROTECION ALL FLAT TAPPETS WILL WEAR VERY FAST:( DO THE RESEARCH :D
Click to expand...

yea i got like a high mileage high performace oil or somthing like that i dont have any left but i think it was qaker state is ther oil containers green.;)
 
Kit Sullivan said:
Actually the content of ZDDP (zincdiakyldithiophasphate) was lowered by 30% in 2005 for the then-new 'GF-4' specification. This lowered amount of zinc-compounds has indeed caused excessive wear on older flat-tappet style valvetrains and other high-performance engines (read: non-stock). The lowered ZDDP was to protect catalytic converters from contamination now that they are designed for 150K, as opposed to the previous 50K life-span.
'GF-5' spec oil is slated to come on board by 2009, with an additional 20% reduction of Zinc compounds.
Click to expand...
Geeze! (*groan*) Zinc has long been known as a superior defense against excessive wear with regard to occasional metal-to-metal contact, and motorcycle engines use oils with high zinc content as well as diesel. I was told that there really isn't a suitable substitute for zinc additives (?).

Do you know if they have addressed this in some other way to compensate (re-formulated additive package) or are they hoping that all the old engines will simply die? And, what about "turbo" oils? They too have a higher zinc content that regular oil.
 
so long old engines by new car because of it

:eek:
Paul93SC said:
Geeze! (*groan*) Zinc has long been known as a superior defense against excessive wear with regard to occasional metal-to-metal contact, and motorcycle engines use oils with high zinc content as well as diesel. I was told that there really isn't a suitable substitute for zinc additives (?).

Do you know if they have addressed this in some other way to compensate (re-formulated additive package) or :mad: are they hoping that all the old engines will simply die? :( And, what about "turbo" oils? They too have a higher zinc content that regular oil.
Click to expand...
you say it in the last lines:(
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top