HP at the wheels with mods?

[SRT-4]

Please give me an idea what HP this setup would put to the gound

1990 SC (5sp)

94/95 type "S" blower with 5% pulley
MP intake plenum
MP "Classic" Big Bore Throat SC Top
BBK 70 mm TB
Built long block with new rods/pistons
SCP Roller Rockers
Competition Cams Xtreme Energy Stage 2 Camshaft (1500-6000)
And full exhaust with cats

I know I'm not thinking of everything like plug wires and stuff like that but I'm just looking for a ballpark on what HP it will make

[nickleman60]

i would think yuo'd have around 240 rwhp maybe a little more.

[SRT-4]

i would think yuo'd have around 240 rwhp maybe a little more.

:( Wow thats a lil low, what else can I do? I really didnt see a full rebuild at 240 HP

[pablon2]

Alright, since you went and said "built long block" now you gotta grab your build sheet and tell us the compression ratio you are running. Do you have a CAI and a different MAF? P.S. I am certain you have more than 240rwhp. I would bet your car on it. :p

[kenewagner]

I see a bigger TB but not a bigger MAF. The intake system needs to be sized together as a system to see an improvement there. I see a cam but nothing on heads. Heads and cam are another thing that go arm in arm together for the biggest bang. You say built long block, is it stock or were performace changes made? Raised top in my opinion is the most over rated mod. Maybe above 300RWHP but under 300 little to no improvement. Lots of pro and con on that subject in the past. I would guess 240 to 250 give or take a few ponies since your engine is fresh and tight. If you want the blower to perform you have to get the intake system sized together. Roots blowers are senstive to mods to the intake side. Do the MAF next.

Ken

[SRT-4]

I see a bigger TB but not a bigger MAF. The intake system needs to be sized together as a system to see an improvement there. I see a cam but nothing on heads. Heads and cam are another thing that go arm in arm together for the biggest bang. You say built long block, is it stock or were performace changes made? Raised top in my opinion is the most over rated mod. Maybe above 300RWHP but under 300 little to no improvement. Lots of pro and con on that subject in the past. I would guess 240 to 250 give or take a few ponies since your engine is fresh and tight. If you want the blower to perform you have to get the intake system sized together. Roots blowers are senstive to mods to the intake side. Do the MAF next.

Ken


Alright, since you went and said "built long block" now you gotta grab your build sheet and tell us the compression ratio you are running. Do you have a CAI and a different MAF? P.S. I am certain you have more than 240rwhp. I would bet your car on it. :p

I'll get the "build sheet" when I can. The car came with the TB but its still on the stock MAF and intake, I think I'll stick with the 70 mm TB and just get a new MAF, and yes the block is going to be "built" I'll have to call the shop for the head info, and yes they are doing a heads/cam combo. The goal for the car is to take a wet 150 shot all day long

[kenewagner]

I'll get the "build sheet" when I can. The car came with the TB but its still on the stock MAF and intake, I think I'll stick with the 70 mm TB and just get a new MAF, and yes the block is going to be "built" I'll have to call the shop for the head info, and yes they are doing a heads/cam combo. The goal for the car is to take a wet 150 shot all day long

Dont think 150 shot is doable, your going to need a reworked fuel system to deliver the goods for that maybe David Neibert or one of the other guys running juice will chime in. If you going to do the MAF and heads as well than I would move my estimate up more toward the 300 mark (just pie in the sky estimating) Most of the guys using Nitrous are just doing 75 shots. I am not an expert on the nitrous so I wouldnt stick my neck out any further than I already have.

Ken

[SRT-4]

your going to need a reworked fuel system to deliver the goods
Ken


Its in the works :cool:

[nickleman60]

considering that a stock 90sc 5-speed had 215 hp at the crank and probably 170-180 hp at the wheels figuring 240-250 hp at the wheels is a gain of 70-80 hp, pretty significant jump for your mods. a chip and tune would help a bit while your at it, that what i'm needing to get to see some better numbers.

[SRT-4]

Who makes a good chip? I have played with a SAFCII on my SRT-4 but nothing for the SC :confused:

[Toms-SC]

Don't use that ricer crap on your SC

Get a SCT Chip

[kenewagner]

Don't use that ricer crap on your SC

Get a SCT Chip

Dittto that. I have a SCT chip as well

[SRT-4]

Holy crap, I found them on SCP are they worth the $? and where is the computer code they need ?

[nickleman60]

there's a tag with a number on it on the computer that's located behind the passenger side kick panel.

[kenewagner]

Holy crap, I found them on SCP are they worth the $? and where is the computer code they need ?

Most people on this forum will tell you to go to Dave Dalke (XR7 Dave) He is a destributer and tuner. You can also look in your local area and find a dealer. The guy running the Dyno I am going to here soon is also a SCT tuner so he can dyno and tune at the same time. Yes the chips are expensive but so are melted pistons blown head gaskets. You can not acheive performace from any newer car that you install aftermarket mods on whether its a chevy, ford or mopar and not intergrade the changes into its computer. With you wanting to run nitrous, a chip is cheap compared to the upgrades you are going to do to build a motor like you have stated above.
Ken

[David Neibert]

I'll get the "build sheet" when I can. The car came with the TB but its still on the stock MAF and intake, I think I'll stick with the 70 mm TB and just get a new MAF, and yes the block is going to be "built" I'll have to call the shop for the head info, and yes they are doing a heads/cam combo. The goal for the car is to take a wet 150 shot all day long

Heads, cam, blower and tuning are the key parts to making power. The supercharger your planning to use will support the 350 rwhp your after. But you will still need a cam and good set of heads similar to what Steigeimer was making. (I think Dave Dalke is now doing heads...or an entire motor).

The heads and cam are supposed to complement each other. If your heads are basicly stock with a little gasket matching type port work, then you would use a differnt cam than a set of welded heads with oversized valves and extensive porting.

There are many factors to be considered and unless your engine builder has experince with an SC motor, I think your going to be dissapointed with the results. Rod length and type, pistons, base compression, rings, head gasket type, balancer, valve springs, push rods, rocker type and ratio, cam selection, ....ect....ect... are all important and will have an impact on how well the motor runs and how long it will last.

As far as being able to handle a 150 shot all day long....good luck with that. Your better off building the motor to make power you can use full time and save the nitrous for when your on the track.

David

[SRT-4]

I understand, The guy building the engine knows SC's and this is why its taking 1-2 months to plan the build and parts. But in the end I hope its a good product ;) and 150 might be a bit high 50-75 might be better

[David Neibert]

I understand, The guy building the engine knows SC's and this is why its taking 1-2 months to plan the build and parts. But in the end I hope its a good product ;) and 150 might be a bit high 50-75 might be better

Ask the engine builder to supply you with the basic info on the cam he is suggesting, and post it here. I'm mainly interested in lift and duration @ .050 and the lobe seperation degrees.

David

[SRT-4]

SPECS:
RPM Operating Range: 1500-6000 RPM
Duration: Advertised Intake 265, Advertised Exhaust 281.
@ .050" Intake 210, @ .050" Exhaust 226
Valve Lift: Intake .500, Exhaust .500
Lobe Separation Angle: 114

[Scott Long]

I'm no cam expert but if you have bigger valves in your heads and port work to increase flow, you might be happier with a .520 cam or even up to a .600 lift cam. I am also not sure about the difference 114 degree LSA makes, I was told 113 is better for these cars, but 1 degree I don't know the effects.

Also duration is a little off on the intake side, since you are cramming air into the engine you might want to keep the valve open a tad bit longer.

Like I said I'm not a cam expert so hopefully someone who has more expertise can chime in and we can both learn something.

[SRT-4]

Bump for a cam expert