code 214

Kurt13R

Registered User
I pulled a 214 code which is Distributorless Ignition System Cylinder Identification circuit failure. Does anyone know how to go about fixing this code problem?
 
Typically it's a bad cam sensor, bad spark plug, or bad wire. Do a search and you'll find plenty on it. There was one person that had quite a problem trying to rectify that code.
Mike
 
All of the plugs are brand new. It doesn't appear to be missing at all. I'm not sure what it could be.
 
I pulled a 214 code which is Distributorless Ignition System Cylinder Identification circuit failure. Does anyone know how to go about fixing this code problem?


i thought that mean the DIS was bad. u can try re-applying the heatsink underneath it.

what are your symptoms ?
 
The check engine light comes on and off for a couple seconds at a time. It stumbles very slightly every once and a while. I've been researching it. Seems to be either a spark plug's ceramic cracked on a cam sensor. I would think that the cam sensor would make my engine not start at all. Any info?
 
Code 214

The DIS module on the 89-93 models is really prone to failure and can trip several different codes. Has it been stalling, failing to start until after a few tries occasionally and/or had the tach cut out from time to time? If so that is likely the case. If not, clear the code and keep driving and see if these symptoms start to occur. Usually when the module starts going, it's a long process and it will keep running with these symptoms happening more and more frequently until it finally gives out. If this happens change the module. DON"T forget to use a high end heat sink grease on the back of the module (Arctic Silver works best and can be picked up at most reputable electronics store) or it WILL overheat and die again. The other thing that I have seen happen on these cars occasionally is corrosion build up inside the wires on the front harness section for the ignition (connects to main harness on top of the blower runs to module, ac clutch, coil pack, cam sensor and crank sensor). Even though the wires appear fine and will show no resistance on an ohm meter, they have corrosion inside the wire jacket, which results in a slight voltage drop. Since fords DIS system uses such low voltage changes, this small amount of voltage drop can throw off the DIS module and make it behave the same way it does when the module is fried. You would have to do a voltage leakdown test on the wires.
 
I was getting the same code on my 94 a couple of years ago....put on a new cam posistion sensor and have not seen code 214 since.
 
The car is a 94 auto. I will have to look at the plugs to see if that's the case. I drove the car for about 130 miles after installing the new plugs and it just now brought the code 214. I don't understand why it wouldn't have done that right away.
 
after i reset the computer my SC took about 2-3 days to throw a CEL again. i think this is normal. my Nissan Altima does the same thing.
 
I would think that the cam sensor would make my engine not start at all.


the car will start and run without the cam sensor plugged in. it may take a few cranks tho. if u unplug it and the symptoms go away, theres ur problem. a sure sign of a bad cam sensor is usually a bouncing/jumping tach.
 
drive the car. if the problems go away with the cam sensor unplugged, swap out a new one. its a cheap part, about $35.
 
I agree - Cam sensor

It's almost definately the cam sensor. The stumble is the giveaway. When the can sensor looses connection, the engine "guesses" at the position of the camshaft. The stumble is the ECU recovering from the loss of signal and implementing the "guess". After the signal is good for a few moments, the CEL goes back off. It'll run without it, but not very well. My 95 did the same thing last fall. Cheap and easy replacement. Less than $30 and about 10 minutes. (Fifteen if you've had a couple of beers first:) )
 
I just checked the plugs and everything seems to be fine. Next step is the cam sensor. I'm just thankful that it is something minor. I already have over 40 hours into the motor. I first swapped out my old motor due to a broken crank. Then once I got the new one in a spark plug blew up. I couldn't really see it all that well and couldn't get it out. So I completely tore the top half of my motor back off and replaced all the gaskets and swapped my heads out. I am currently at work so I will not be able to get a new cam sensor until tomorrow. Hopefully I can make it home without any problems.
 
Too bad I don't have my motor sitting next to me. I could just simply take the sensor off my old motor to see if that gets rid of the code 214. Unfortunately is is about 120 miles away at my fathers shop. I will pick one up tomorrow.
 
If you dont have any of the other symtoms, it prob is the cam sensor. There is a way to test it, but for the price of a cam sensor and the ease of work, it's not worth putzing around with. If you want the full testing procedure, let me know and I can post it. The sensor can be changed regardless of crank position. You only have to position the crank if you are pulling out the connecitng drive from the sensor to the camshaft. For the sensor, just unplug it, disconnect the two mount bolts, pop it out, and throw the new one on. 5 minute job.
 
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