Oil Pressure and A/F ratio gauges.

AMD[H]unter

Registered User
Since I found out that the oil pressure gauge isn't actually gauge, I went ahead and got me a A/F and Oil Pressure gauge coming. I need to know how to install them...

I also need to know what Oil Pressure sending unit i will need, since I guess the stock one will not work seeing as it's an on off switch.
 
I read that, but there are 3 part numbers. Which one is what I need? All I need is the sending unit, right? Will it bolt right up to the origional hole? Once I get it in, how do I hook it up?

The oil pressure gauge should have come with a sender that is properly calibrated for the gauge. Sender replaces the stock unit and has one wire that runs to the back of the gauge. Gauge will usually have 3 spade connections, signal, ground & power. Signal goes to the sender, ground to the body of the car, power (12 volt DC) from an ignition switched source. To avoid getting a check gauge light...ground the wire coming off the stock sender.

The A/F ratio gauge is a worthless POS that is only good for impressing young girls or to amuse yourself at stoplights.

You will need a gauge pod to mount the gauges in, they are not going to fit in the instument cluster. SCP and Spinning Wheels probably sells a dual gauge pillar pod.

David
 
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to hook up the aftermarket oil pressure gauge its pretty simple. It should have come with a sender. What I did is just put a T fitting on where the stock gauges' sender is so therefor you don't have a dead gauge on your cluster and you could use your aftermarket one
 
The oil pressure gauge should have come with a sender that is properly calibrated for the gauge. Sender replaces the stock unit and has one wire that runs to the back of the gauge. Gauge will usually have 3 spade connections, signal, ground & power. Signal goes to the sender, ground to the body of the car, power (12 volt DC) from an ignition switched source. To avoid getting a check gauge light...ground the wire coming off the stock sender.

The A/F ratio gauge is a worthless POS that is only good for impressing young girls or to amuse yourself at stoplights.

You will need a gauge pod to mount the gauges in, they are not going to fit in the instument cluster. SCP and Spinning Wheels probably sells a dual gauge pillar pod.

David

Ok, thanks a bunch for the help, David. So I don't need an A/F gauge. I got a 2 gauge pod.....what do i put in the other hole?
 
to hook up the aftermarket oil pressure gauge its pretty simple. It should have come with a sender. What I did is just put a T fitting on where the stock gauges' sender is so therefor you don't have a dead gauge on your cluster and you could use your aftermarket one

I'm not quite sure what you meant by a T fitting....
 
Ok, thanks a bunch for the help, David. So I don't need an A/F gauge. I got a 2 gauge pod.....what do i put in the other hole?

Well if your going to get an accurate oil pressure gauge, you may also want to get a coolant temp gauge to go along with it.

I have fuel pressure and transmission temp in the pillar pods of both my SCs. On the turbo car I also have a coolant temp and oil pressure gauge mounted on the lower portion of the dash near the ash tray.

David
 
Well if your going to get an accurate oil pressure gauge, you may also want to get a coolant temp gauge to go along with it.

I have fuel pressure and transmission temp in the pillar pods of both my SCs. On the turbo car I also have a coolant temp and oil pressure gauge mounted on the lower portion of the dash near the ash tray.

David

Well, I might just get me a coolant temp gauge then. I could use the FP gauge, but that really wouldn't be needed until I get my heads and cam done, right?

Also, what's the best way to install the temp gauge?

EDIT: About the OP gauge....I need an electrical one, correct?
 
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Well, I might just get me a coolant temp gauge then. I could use the FP gauge, but that really wouldn't be needed until I get my heads and cam done, right?

Also, what's the best way to install the temp gauge?

EDIT: About the OP gauge....I need an electrical one, correct?

The electrical is much easier to install (what I used), but the mechanical is probably more accurate. If you don't understand what Dan was talking about when he mentioned using a tee, then steer clear of the mechanical gauge because it involves alot more plumbing and difficulty getting the hose into the pillar.

Coolant temp gauge will come with instructions and a sender...same wiring required as the oil pressure gauge I explained earlier in this thread.

David
 
The electrical is much easier to install (what I used), but the mechanical is probably more accurate. If you don't understand what Dan was talking about when he mentioned using a tee, then steer clear of the mechanical gauge because it involves alot more plumbing and difficulty getting the hose into the pillar.

Coolant temp gauge will come with instructions and a sender...same wiring required as the oil pressure gauge I explained earlier in this thread.

David

Ok, I got both of them ordered, and as far as I know they both come with senders. I also ordered a 1/4 inch NPT T fitting so I don't get the dead gauge and a check gauge light for the OP gauge. Also, David, can I have some pics of how you routed your wiring on the car with the A piller pod? I am hoping that I don't have to take half my dash out to do all this...
 
You don't need a tee for the oil pressure gauge....just ditch the existing sender and ground the wire that was going to the sender. Then it will always show good oil pressure on the stock gauge and the dreaded check gauge light will not come on. I just did the same thing on my turbo SC. Don't do anything with the existing coolant temp gauge sender wire and the gauge will read cold all the time.

No I can not post pictures of how I wired my gauges...it's all buried. Get a few rolls of 16 gauge wire (red=power, black=ground & green=signal are my favorites) and a set of crimpers and terminal ends and dig in. If you don't understand basic wiring, then your probably better off asking someone that lives near you to give you a hand.

David
 
You don't need a tee for the oil pressure gauge....just ditch the existing sender and ground the wire that was going to the sender. Then it will always show good oil pressure on the stock gauge and the dreaded check gauge light will not come on. I just did the same thing on my turbo SC. Don't do anything with the existing coolant temp gauge sender wire and the gauge will read cold all the time.

No I can not post pictures of how I wired my gauges...it's all buried. Get a few rolls of 16 gauge wire (red=power, black=ground & green=signal are my favorites) and a set of crimpers and terminal ends and dig in. If you don't understand basic wiring, then your probably better off asking someone that lives near you to give you a hand.

David

Ok, I will do that with the old OP gauge. I will leave the existing coolant gauge and it's sender in place, but where do I put the sender for the new gauge? Oh, and, I know how to wire stuff up, it's just that I don't know how to route the wires for the SC, and I have never hooked up any gauges in one.
 
to hook up the aftermarket oil pressure gauge its pretty simple. It should have come with a sender. What I did is just put a T fitting on where the stock gauges' sender is so therefor you don't have a dead gauge on your cluster and you could use your aftermarket one

Hey, thanks for the info! Do you have any pics of how you routed your wires? I am not really sure of the best way to do mine.
 
Ok, I will do that with the old OP gauge. I will leave the existing coolant gauge and it's sender in place, but where do I put the sender for the new gauge? Oh, and, I know how to wire stuff up, it's just that I don't know how to route the wires for the SC, and I have never hooked up any gauges in one.

Remove the existing coolant temp sender (next to bleeder by thermostat housing). Install the new sender in it's place.

David
 
How about takin' some pics for future reference so others can get an idea what's in store? Just a suggestion :)
 
Don't do anything with the existing coolant temp gauge sender wire and the gauge will read cold all the time.
David

Why do you want the ECU to think the motor is cold? Your gas mileage and shifts (assuming you have an auto) will suffer greatly

Unless the motor has 2 coolant sensors... one for the ECU and one for the gauge...
 
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